Guitarnut - Prs Custom 22

[crow]

As I was setting up to dish out the areas around the controls, I realized I hadn't shown the binding level on the body after the carve. Here it is...

Before scooping out the recesses with the 1.25" cove bit I found at Menard's, I needed to know the thickness of the top at each point. I slid a flat block into the control cavity and pushed a chuck key handle thru until it bottomed out. Then I placed a piece of tape on the outside, removed the chuck key and measured the diatance with my calipers. 3 different readings as you would expect on a carved top.

After a bit of careful "routing" on the drill press, I was able to get some nice results. Using the Shop Smith drill press' variable speed control lets me ramp up to 5200 rpm...not sure how that compares to other drills. This technique works but it's a bit scary. I had a couple of moments I thought the bit had torn out a chunk of the top...just an ugly noise though.

hello!

I prepared it with a chisel the deepening...

[MuffinPunch]

As always, love it! I think I already mentioned it in this thread, but your attention to detail is awe inspiring!!! I love following your builds! I dont know how exact you were wanting this interpretation of a PRS to be, but if you were going for close to exact, I think the carve on the inner horns could use a little work, go a little wider (not deeper), if you know what I mean. Crow's carve is a pretty good example, compare the inner horns of yours and you'll see what Im talking about. But yours looks great either way.

Edited May 9, 2010 by MuffinPunch

[guitarnut]

As always, love it! I think I already mentioned it in this thread, but your attention to detail is awe inspiring!!! I love following your builds! I dont know how exact you were wanting this interpretation of a PRS to be, but if you were going for close to exact, I think the carve on the inner horns could use a little work, go a little wider (not deeper), if you know what I mean. Crow's carve is a pretty good example, compare the inner horns of yours and you'll see what Im talking about. But yours looks great either way.

Thanks Steve! I've seen a wide variety of carves on PRS guitars. From very smooth and rounded to sharp and more defined like Crow's. I was shooting for something in between, though not an exact copy of any of them...not that I could just from photos.

Thanks for the comments. Much appreciated.

Peace,

Mark

[guitarnut]

I got started on finish this weekend. I had originally compared this to the 10 tops that PRS builds, calling it maybe a 4...I'm thinking now it's more like a 2. But that's okay. The experience on this one will pay off big on the ones to come with nice wood.

I first applied black dye.

Then sanded it back.

I used straight green TransTint dye in denatured alcohol (DA). After the green dye had dried...it washed out a bit but it's much richer looking in person. I'm not sure I love the green...good thing about dye is it easily sands off. I may make another pass with some black added to darken the green.

After the binding edges were scraped and a couple coats of sealer to lock in the color.

I use water based products from Target Coatings and their sealer is a clear product that in addition to sealing, is used to deliver tinted and opaque colors. It seems to work very nicely with DA. In fact, I discovered that after applying sealer, dye and DA can be sprayed right on top and the sealer almost instantly absorbs the color and flashes the DA. It works really well for enhancing color or doing touch ups.

[crow]

Hello!

It is visible well here how I did the hogging. I hope so I was able to help with this picture.

[guitarnut]

Hello!

It is visible well here how I did the hogging. I hope so I was able to help with this picture.

Thanks Crow. That' a bautiful guitar! Cool photo too.

Peace,

Mark

[guitarnut]

I have the back blacked out. I really wanted to use a trans dye on the mahogany but there were just too many odd colors and grain in the wood...and it's a 3 piece so no huge loss not being able to see that.

I started with 5 color coats and then after curring 48 hours, I level sanded it.

Not necessary but a little extra effort on a black finish goes a long way.

Looking good. I'll give the top a bit of a darker green treatment then it's on to binding clean up and clear coats.

[guitarnut]

I'm not one to show off my mistakes but I have to come clean on this one. I tried to go dark green and do a burst and it came out horrible! I have to get some better lighting in the shop.

There's something interesting about the color combo but the uneven burst has to go...

...So, break out the elbow grease. On the bright side, I found a couple of spots that could have been blocked out a touch better, so now is my chance.

Back to square one... it's a good feeling at this point.

[guitarnut]

After applying the green dye again...I sprayed it this time since I had already done the back and sides. Plus, it's easier to control bleed going under the tape and onto the bindings.

It wasn't quite doing it for me...too bright. So I added 5 drops of blue to the dye I had left in the cup. Subtle difference in the photos but huge in person.

I think the extra dying and sanding actually helped this one. The figure is much more defined now.

I scraped the binding and cleaned up the top edges. I think it's going to be a beauty!

[guitarnut]

I switched the camera out of preset and did some manual adjustments to the flash and iris. These look more like the real deal.

[Samba Pa Ti]

I switched the camera out of preset and did some manual adjustments to the flash and iris. These look more like the real deal.

lovely colour, im not sure i like the indentations where the knobs + switch go,

i think when theres knobs on it they will look good but without knobs it looks perculiar to me.

is that done just to make the top the right width so the knobs will fit on the pots ?

a good way to get a nice pic of the body colour would be to take a photo of it outside with no flash, or indoors in the daytime with natural light coming through the window, i find camera flashes to be evil for washing out colour and misrepresenting the colour tone.

[I Like Turtles]

That thing looks great! I can't believe you got such a nice top out of two pieces that weren't even bookmatched.

Your builds are very insightful into the processes too. I appreciate it, man.

[Prostheta]

Veeery nice colour! Not the best of figured woods sure, but I love that colour because it's not part of the "standard" palette if you see what I mean. Very swampy, "Louisana", spinachburst!

[yorgo]

All I do are refinishes,but all the people on here who build guitars from...you all are truly craftsman. And you sir are one of them. Really nice work. I always enjoy following your posts.

[Pestvic]

the new green finish came out awesome! its a good think you "messed up" it really popped the grain more

cant wait to see more progress

[Zeljac]

sorry, but I think that you could do a better sanding job on it.

I think, that it would be even better results while dyeing it.

[guitarnut]

sorry, but I think that you could do a better sanding job on it.

I think, that it would be even better results while dyeing it.

Not sure I follow what you mean...the dye was left in the figure on purpose before restaining. An age old, tried and true method.

Peace,

Mark

[guitarnut]

lovely colour, im not sure i like the indentations where the knobs + switch go,

i think when theres knobs on it they will look good but without knobs it looks perculiar to me.

is that done just to make the top the right width so the knobs will fit on the pots ?

They're standard on most PRS carved guitars. The "dish" accomplishes three things. It thins out the top, as you pointed out. Also, since the bit is perpendicular to the back of the guitar when the dishes and mounting holes are cut, it allows the controls to be installed in that line so they sit flat on the bottom of the rear control cavity. And the obvious, it provides a countersink for the knobs. If the knobs were just set on the end of a protruding pot, the edge of the knob near the strings would be much closer to the top when viewed from the side. The edge by the bindings would have a large gap under it.

Peace,

Mark

EDIT: A very crude illustration.

[Samba Pa Ti]

ah that makes perfect sense!

how do guitars without the dish get away with not having the knobs crooked then ?

[guitarnut]

ah that makes perfect sense!

how do guitars without the dish get away with not having the knobs crooked then ?

The bottom of the control cavity is angled to match the top. And the pot stems are more perpendicular to the top than the back. I believe Les Pauls are done this way. My Epi is anyway.

Peace,

Mark

[guitarnut]

Just a quick update. I have all the clear coats sprayed. I've been very happy with the way the EmTech water based lavquer lays down...just beautifil. It sprays like nitro, flows out smoothly, and cures very quickly. Of course, I've added a bit of help in the curing dept.

I hang the guitars in my studio closet and I've placed a small space heater ( no extention cords involved...keeping it safe) in there with them...it keeps the room at about 100 degrees F. That coupled with the dry air indoors from the A/C really help the spraying schedule.

I spray 2 double coats, place them in the hot room for an hour, spray 2 more and so on. It's been great. And when they come out of the room for another few coats, they're quite warm and the coats flash very quickly...allowing the double coat process to go very quick without fear of sags or runs.

This will also allow me to speed up the cure time...normally fully cured in 100 hours. I used this hot room on my $210 Challenge entry and buffed it out the next day...only 20 hours after the final coats were sprayed.

Now I just need to wait a few days for "baking" and they will all be ready for buffing.

[MuffinPunch]

Man, do you sell any of your builds? You must have an entire wing in your house to hold all of the guitars you've built by now! beautiful work as usual Mark!

[guitarnut]

Man, do you sell any of your builds? You must have an entire wing in your house to hold all of the guitars you've built by now! beautiful work as usual Mark!

Thanks Steve! I haven't sold anything yet.

I took this photo a few weeks back for a friend of mine. Wish I had swept the floor first.

11 of the 17 are my builds. Some off-the-rack pieces in there too. 2 Washburn acoustics, Taylor 514 acoustic, Fender Lead II, BC Rich bass, and Epi LP.

I'm starting to see my wife's point.

Peace,

Mark

[RestorationAD]

Man, do you sell any of your builds? You must have an entire wing in your house to hold all of the guitars you've built by now! beautiful work as usual Mark!

Thanks Steve! I haven't sold anything yet.

I took this photo a few weeks back for a friend of mine. Wish I had swept the floor first.

11 of the 17 are my builds. Some off-the-rack pieces in there too. 2 Washburn acoustics, Taylor 514 acoustic, Fender Lead II, BC Rich bass, and Epi LP.

I'm starting to see my wife's point.

Peace,

Mark

First of all I can't believe you are cooking them in the closet... How does that studio smell?

Second of all lets not get into showing us yours... Selling them only keeps you at a constant number like 17.

Third your wife is right. Sell them so you can build more. Or she will start to ask "Why are you building another one?"

Answer "Its not for me...here is some money for new shoes. I will be in the garage until you get back."

Nice work as always.

[guitarnut]

First of all I can't believe you are cooking them in the closet... How does that studio smell?

Nice work as always.

Thanks!

It's a water based acrylic lacquer...absolutely no odor. When you're close to an open can, it's no more than smelling latex wall paint but after it's sprayed, zero odor. I love this stuff!

EM6000 Production Lacquer

Peace,

Mark