2nd Build - Single Cut Junior

[mannym]

I need to feather the sharoness out of the burst edges.

For this I use a 340 grit sanding sponge. The beauty of using an enamel for the burst is whilst its still tacky, you can feather the edges with the sanding sponge. Use dry, apply small circular sanding strokes and dull and blend the edges.

I used this:

To dull teh sharpness and feather the edges.

A quick spray to sharpen the edges and were almost done

[mannym]

Started the initial clear coats of Poly. Results are OK, but I prefer wipe on to spray can.

Cheers

Manny

[Muzz]

Hi Manny, That is too nice a guitar to leave that black paint burst on, I would strip it off and use a brown tinted and transparent finish for the burst, or stain it a deep red with no burst. Good luck with it.

[sdshirtman]

^^^^^

I agree. Take some extra time and make the finish match the quality of the build.

[mannym]

Gee guys, i didnt know you felt so strongly about it!

Ive got 3 solid coats of poly on her now and funnily enough I also think the black is too overpowering. I might take to it with the 80 grit sander....big call as i want to finish it.

here it is as it stands this morning after the third coat of clear.

But damn guys you've got me thinking about it now.

And I do like the rosewood.

This is the look I was after. i still like it.

[IPA or death]

I agree that if you don't get it right, it will always bother you. May as well do it right now. Compare it with your mockup and it's plain to see it's too dark now. BTW, that mockup is one of my favorite guitars ever. Sunburst LP Jr. is killer! I've got one that is just Gibson red mahogany but I wish I had done a sunburst.

I don't know if you've read this, but it's a pretty good read: Reranch gibson burst

[mannym]

I agree that if you don't get it right, it will always bother you. May as well do it right now. Compare it with your mockup and it's plain to see it's too dark now. BTW, that mockup is one of my favorite guitars ever. Sunburst LP Jr. is killer! I've got one that is just Gibson red mahogany but I wish I had done a sunburst.

I don't know if you've read this, but it's a pretty good read: Reranch gibson burst

Thanks for the comments. I hate stripping guitars, but any darker and I may as well have sprayed the entire body black.

I'll cost me a day, but i guess I can try sanding it all off.

I do like the neck like that so im not touching that. What I will do is sand the front clean and see what I can do. The back may have to go as well or I may get away with it.

Damn!!!

[mannym]

Well, Ive been convinced by some here and on other forums and Ive decided that there's too much black in the finish, and Ive stripped it and will reapply the burst using dies I can control the strength, rather than paint in cans.

I deviated a little too far from the intended finish.

Good news, is it only took me a couple of hours to strip the finish and with a bit of finer sanding I can start re-applying. I will be rubbing in the burst as opposed to spraying it.

[WezV]

take extra time with the finish sanding then if you are doing a rubbed on finish. if you are dying wood any flaws (dents & scratches) will be highlighted

[mannym]

take extra time with the finish sanding then if you are doing a rubbed on finish. if you are dying wood any flaws (dents & scratches) will be highlighted

Sure Wez.

I used 80 grit to get the gunk off. there are a couple of pits and marks Ill try and remove if possible. I plan to prep with 120, then 180, 240 and 320. Anything higher probably wont make too much of a difference at this stage.

My plan is:

One full strength coat of Rosewood for the base - moderate application but evenly across the body. let it settle and dry for an hour or so, light sand with 320, and apply second base coat. Im wiping on with clean cloth.

Then a darker tint (1part black/ 10 parts rosewood) for the transition - rub in and work/feather away from edges towards center (2 inches in).

Finish with darker shade around an inch from the edges and use this for the body perimeter (1 part black/7 parts Rosewood. Again work this into the previous layer and transition. Given it will slightly darken with several coats of Poly gloss, Ill keep that in mind also.

[Bizzar_Guitars]

Hey Manny,

Great job on using reclaimed wood! I've got some Merenti that's going to make it into a guitar too. Here's what I did with some reclaimed wood: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...amp;hl=Poseidon

Your build looks great. I think I missed it, what kind of wood are you using for your fretboard?

For what its worth, I agree that you should allow more wood grain to show through. Brian Calvert (who runs this board) has a cool way of doing a burst. Check it out.

Ciao,

Garth

[mannym]

Hey Manny,

Great job on using reclaimed wood! I've got some Merenti that's going to make it into a guitar too. Here's what I did with some reclaimed wood: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...amp;hl=Poseidon

Your build looks great. I think I missed it, what kind of wood are you using for your fretboard?

For what its worth, I agree that you should allow more wood grain to show through.

Ciao,

Garth

Hey Garth,

Ive seen you're build - great stuff.

I used the Meranti for the neck, and Im using an Australian Red Gum (but i think its blue gum which looks similar but works a hell of alot easier). For the fret board im using Merbau (had some left over after a decking project). Washed the tannins out of it first.

[mannym]

OK. The old finish was stripped and the surfaces all sanded down to 320.

First coats of Redwood stain applied.

Now by experimenting with black tint at various strengths I managed to darken the color and create a dark tobacco color that I used to hand rub the burst in.

Similarly here's the back.

Now lest see how it turns out with the clear topcoats.

Cheers

Manny

[mannym]

OK, I have sprayed the first coat of poly and so far looks OK.

I think its going to turn out fine. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.

Cheers

Manny

[Anthony]

Definitely an improvement from before. I think its great.

[mannym]

Thanks Anthony.

Some more progress.

I have sprayed 5 coats of clear poly, sanding with wet and dry 600 between coats, and am happy with teh finish. I'll leave her to harden for a week or so, before i buff. In the meantime I can finish the electrics.

I used a 2mm thick old black paper tray to cut out a pickguard and cavity plate. I sanded with 1200 to get rid of some scratches, and after a couple of coats of poly theyve turned out great.

Here's a couple of pics:

Now waiting for some screws to arrive and my Ernie Ball 2210 strings. They are 10-50s or "Jazz" set with a wound G for the proper intonation on the vintage style bridge.

Have a Great Xmas, Hanukah, Holiday season - and may your God or Godess be kind to you and your families.

Cheers

Manny

[mannym]

Tonight I started test fitting all the components. I installed the pots and pickup so I can wire themup tomorrow. Guard is on. Bridge is on. Starting to look like an instrument. I just hope it plays well.

Cheers

Manny

[Geo]

I love the color. Great work.

[mannym]

Almost there. Ive slotted the camel bone nut and taped into place. Ill string her up now and check levels and heights adjusting the nut height to the desired level and then glue into place.

Here's a shot with all the hardware.

Cheers

Manny

[mannym]

Well guys and gals...my second build based on a LP Jr, is finished. Bad weather today limited the photos to indoor, but I did manage to play her and the P-90 is one of the best sounds youll hear! The guitar is heavy but the sustain is awesome. Ill try and grab some sound bites.

Thanks for following the thread.

Cheers

Manny

[westhemann]

Looks good,but it would look much better if you leveled the finish...do you know how to do that?

It would be very easy with some micromesh and a sanding block,then a cheap auto buffer...with both sides being flat it would take no more than a couple of hours I think.

But I am not knocking it.If you like it then it's cool.

[mannym]

Looks good,but it would look much better if you leveled the finish...do you know how to do that?

It would be very easy with some micromesh and a sanding block,then a cheap auto buffer...with both sides being flat it would take no more than a couple of hours I think.

But I am not knocking it.If you like it then it's cool.

I hear you Wes. And I agree. I Dont have micro mesh available at the moment and have ordered some pads as I thing 1200 wet and dry may not be fine enough for a better finish. Will hit the surface with some mesh and buff after another week or so of hardening.

Thanks for the feedback.

Cheers

Manny

[westhemann]

Micro mesh is great..it comes in grits 1500 to 12000..what I do(to make it the easiest) is to level the finish with a sanding block and some 400 grit sandpaper..this stuff is much better that anything else I have tried

http://www.amazon.com/Norton-2632-Sandpaper-400-Grit-20-Sheets/dp/B000GT9DS0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1293984094&sr=8-5

Be gentle and don't touch any corners with it..just level all of the flat areas with it...be gentle..then take those scratches out with 600..then you can start with the micromesh 1500 and work up from there to 12000...by 4000 grit you should not see anything more than fine scratches..by 12000 it will look really good,but there will still be fine scrathes you need to buff out.

I just bought one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Titan-22610-10-Inch-Electric-Polisher/dp/B000UOHZ7C/ref=sr_1_cc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1293984469&sr=1-1-catcorr

It works good...I use it with #4 swirl remover and buff the hell out of it...

[mannym]

Micro mesh is great..it comes in grits 1500 to 12000..what I do(to make it the easiest) is to level the finish with a sanding block and some 400 grit sandpaper..this stuff is much better that anything else I have tried

http://www.amazon.com/Norton-2632-Sandpaper-400-Grit-20-Sheets/dp/B000GT9DS0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1293984094&sr=8-5

Be gentle and don't touch any corners with it..just level all of the flat areas with it...be gentle..then take those scratches out with 600..then you can start with the micromesh 1500 and work up from there to 12000...by 4000 grit you should not see anything more than fine scratches..by 12000 it will look really good,but there will still be fine scrathes you need to buff out.

I just bought one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Titan-22610-10-Inch-Electric-Polisher/dp/B000UOHZ7C/ref=sr_1_cc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1293984469&sr=1-1-catcorr

It works good...I use it with #4 swirl remover and buff the hell out of it...

Thanks Wes. Ive got Wet and dry upto 1200 (400,600,800,1200)so Ill level and then when the pads arrive do as you recommend.

Cheers and thanks again

Manny

[mannym]

Ive rubbed the flat areas back up to 1200 and am now awaiting for my micro mesh pads to arrive. Ive got some 1500 to 20,000 and everything in between on the way.

One lesson for young (at heart and in guitar making - not in years) players is the amount of stuff happening when you level and dull the surface. You discover a whole world of ripples, runs, and pits when the surface is duller. I found a couple of minor ripples/runs that I wouldnt have picked up after 5 or 6 coats of clear poly was applied. In fact i didnt pick it up until I leveled and dulled the surface with 400(dry), 600(dry), 800(wet), and 1200(wet).

Thanks for prompting me to do this Wes. I reckon it's going to make the guitar infinitely better.