Second Build

[mwcarl]

Starting up my second build, received the wood just recently. The build consists of a two piece narra body core, with bookmatched spalted maple top and back. The shape was inspired by another build on this forum (link). The set neck is also narra with a 3x3 angled headstock, 25" scale length and ebony fretboard with mother of pearl inlays. The fretboard will be bound with bloodwood veneer. Black Hipshot Grip-Lock tuners, ebony knobs (2 x volume, 1 x tone), 3-way pickup switch, killswitch, black Gotoh Tune-o-matic bridge, through body strings, and Seymour Duncan Blackouts pickups round out the rest.

The wood being used, minus the fretboard (pending arrival):

Spalted maple top and back respectively, yet to be stabilized:

Narra body blank:

Pickups:

Two bookmatched options for the spalted top:

Wood as they stand now, body blank joined, headstock cut, and MDF template:

Anyone have any tips for stabilizing the spalted maple? I've started stabilizing the back part of one of the halves of the back with CA, it looks like I'll have to get used to the stabilizing making the spalted areas a lot darker. I'm I supposed to apply the stabilizer to the whole piece of wood, or just the spalted areas? It looks like the colour change from the stabilizer sill be too visible to use on specific areas only. The spalted maple I'm using isn't too soft, but looks like it'll still require significant stabilizing.

Edited September 14, 2010 by mwcarl

[mwcarl]

Just a small update for anyone interested. Testing the CA as a stabilizer on the back of one of the spalted maple halves, it appears as if the discoloration of the non-spalted areas is not visible once Tru-Oil finish is applied. I guess it would matter if I was intending on doing any staining, but the top and back are going to be natural.

[IbanezDudeCK]

Interesting. You're last one was so traditional now its super modern. Not the most comfortable looking shape but neither is the Halo Reaper that I want to base my next one off of. Are you just doing a natural clear finish on the whole thing or are you going to do an aged brown look like the last one?

[mwcarl]

I think I'm going to just do a natural finish on the whole thing. You're right that it's not going to be super comfortable, but that was obvious going in. Some progress photos, with top and back partially wetted to show figure:

Core joined, cut and routed.

Top joined to core.

Back joined to core. Should look seamless since control cavity cover is cut directly from the back.

Neck with truss rod.

[mwcarl]

Quick question, I'm binding the fretboard using some wood binding strips (either bloodwood or ebony, haven't decided yet). Is normal wood glue (Titebond) the most appropriate for glueing it onto the fretboard or something else?

[verhoevenc]

Yes. I use titebond and couldn't be happier. Just use tape to clamp and you'll be fine too. That said, once you have it all taped up, take an exacto knife and run it from the center to the edges of each slot to remove and glue that's squeezed in. I also recommend putting the glue on the binding and spreading it there instead of putting it on the edge of the fretboard and spreading it... you get slightly less squeeze into the slots this way and thus less to clean out with the knife later. That said, done right, there shouldn't be much cleanup anyways.

Chris

[mwcarl]

Gluing the cocobolo fretboard onto the neck (screwed up the ebony fretboard, went with something else instead):

Gluing ebony binding onto sides of fretboard (thanks verhoevenc, worked great):

Inlays after cutting, not yet set into the fretboard, gives a good idea of what they'll look like, should be done this week:

Inlay closeup, showing binding:

Next up, setting the inlays, routing for the pickups, setting in the neck.

[mwcarl]

Pickups routed, neck set in (not glued yet).

Front:

Back

Edited October 17, 2010 by mwcarl

[verhoevenc]

Not quite what I had in mind but I guess that works... You can actually get away with just putting a short piece of tape (think like 1.5") every inch or so along the binding you wish to glue up... it's honestly enough. I like I use 13 pieces of 1.5"-or-so long 3/4" wide blue tape down each side when I glue up bindings to a fretboard.

Chris

[avengers63]

Sorry, but I really don't feel that this body shape matches up well with figured/spalted/"pretty" wood. I get the "wood p0rn" thing as much as anyone, but some shapes just aren't suited for it in my opinion...... which, of course, amounts to a hill of beans.

[padbug]

I agree, now that avangers pointed it out. Maybe some kind of burst would soften the blow, so to speak?

Other than that, it looks great

Edited October 17, 2010 by padbug

[rustychisel]

I agree, now that avangers pointed it out. Maybe some kind of burst would soften the blow, so to speak?

Other than that, it looks great

Completely disagree. I think this shape would look horrible without the spalted would which gives a a very decaying and distorbing feel to the design. Reminds me of "The Scream" or some of the post WWI art.

For what its worth, I have lurked on this board for three years now and this is probably the first I have ever commented on.

[mwcarl]

Thanks for the comments guys.

verhoevenc: Yeah I did go a bit overboard, but I wanted it to be perfect. I think I came close. I'll probably use less next time. As a tip to anyone else (if it's not already widely public knowledge) wax paper is really useful to reduce after-gluing cleanup. You can see it sticking out when I was gluing the binding on.

avengers63 and padbug: I agree with rustychisel on this (hell I picked the wood and design didn't I), this build would be many times less interesting with uninteresting wood (god forbid painted). Less spalted wood might have worked better, but even more 'normal' (i.e. curly or quilted) would probably look really strange with this shape. Of course that's just in my mind.

rustychisel: Thanks (assuming that you're commenting because you like it).

I've inlayed the fingerboard and drilled all of the holes on the body, so I'm getting close. I'll fret the neck tonight, and soon going to be doing some testing with brushing on LMII waterbase lacquer.

[mwcarl]

Didn't post any other progress photos since there didn't seem to be much interest, but it's all done now and plays great. Finished in two months, which is much better than my last one and a lot fewer mistakes. May inlay the headstock at some point, but the weather means I won't be doing that until at least next year.

Body:

Headstock:

Full guitar:

Flame on the horns:

Controls and bridge:

Neck heel and back flame/quilt:

[mwcarl]

Full back:

Control cavity cover (yes I know there are some that think using wood is overkill):

More flame/quilt on back:

Full front:

Angled front:

Full back:

[westhemann]

I really like the body.I think the headstock could use a spalt headplate and backplate,and overall the guitar is too thick everywhere for me,but the craftsmanship is great,and the look kills...

I was interested in the progress,but I never posted anything because there just wasn't much to say..next time you might make a normal scarf joint because it flows better...but a headplate and backplate would hide that anyway.

[ScottR]

I pretty much agree with Wes. The body shape is cool; it's not for me, but still very cool. The flamed spalt strikes me the same way. I'm not sure it appeals to me for me, but I sure like looking at it. It's one of the more unusual patterns I've ever seen. Some places it looks just like bark. The craftmanship looks first rate, very well done and the finish is very nice as well. What did you finish it with? (Sorry if I missed that somewhere).

SR