Dave_B Posted October 5, 2010 Report Posted October 5, 2010 I spent yesterday reading jointer manuals. They all mention that stock must be at least 1/2" thick. So, how do you prep the pieces that are thinner than that? Thanks, Dave Quote
IPA or death Posted October 5, 2010 Report Posted October 5, 2010 Ideally, a planer. Other than that I guess a jointer could be used but I've never done that. Got to be more than one way to skin a cat. Quote
low end fuzz Posted October 5, 2010 Report Posted October 5, 2010 i dont even use my thickness planer anymmore since i git my t. sander, but when i run stuff to small or thin for it i run it on a board with sandpaper stuck to it for traction; dunno if that could handle the blades cutting into it; but what about same idea with some double sided tape? i would suggest being able to hold onto 1 end at a time, shallow passes and a true side to start Quote
verhoevenc Posted October 5, 2010 Report Posted October 5, 2010 If the stock has parallel surfaces already (could be done with a well tuned bandsaw, tables saw, sander, planer, etc.) there's no reason a jointer wouldn't be the perfect tool for the job. A planer will also do it just fine. As will a thickness sander. Planer/jointer becomes a bit more of an issue when you're looking at figured woods because of tearout, but you can still do it with care, sharp blades, and shallow passes. ALL of those methods will lend equally ideal surfaces for neck lamination glue-up. Chris Quote
Dave_B Posted October 5, 2010 Author Report Posted October 5, 2010 Thanks for the info, guys. The other option I should have asked about is using a router with a planing jig. I have a workbench, so I could clamp the piece down and do it that way. I don't like to ask these types of hand-holding questions, but I'm in a position to buy one tool right now and I don't want to screw it up. Thing is, I also don't want to compromise a build by using an inappropriate tool for the job. Right now I have a passable table saw and drill press. The band saw is hopefully going to be purchased before the end of the year. Once I get over this jointing paranoia, I should be ok. Quote
Prostheta Posted October 6, 2010 Report Posted October 6, 2010 Always used a jointer to get close. Sanding by hand has always been my tactic however. I want to buy a thickness sander eventually. Quote
low end fuzz Posted October 6, 2010 Report Posted October 6, 2010 thickness sander and jointer are the best combo for me; i would never hand sand a glue joint; and if im not mistaken, your question was about thicknessing something less than 1/2" because thats all your planer could handle? Quote
RestorationAD Posted October 10, 2010 Report Posted October 10, 2010 I will add this... Using a jointer or a planar on figured wood is probably not an option. The drum sander is the best method but they are expensive (I love mine). You can make a thickness sander from a large sanding spindle and a fence on your drill press. Or if you have a spindle sander. Just use the fence as a thickness gauge and pull the piece through . google search Luthiers Friend and you will see one. You can build it yourself for very little time and money. Quote
Musiclogic Posted October 12, 2010 Report Posted October 12, 2010 I use a surface planer to bring close to desired thickness, and then into the thickness sander. In your case, you may want to use the jointer with a flat backer board to keep the piece flat. A piece of MDF or particle board, maple or walnut can act as a nice backer for thin pieces, and prevent blade lash when trying to run across a jointer. Quote
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