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Best Method To Bind Fingerboards?


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Looking for some suggestions for binding fingerboards. I tried to glue up some maple binding on a maple Finger board and it didn't go so well. I tried using some binding tape and a few clamps but I ended up some very small gaps. I could have probably let them go, but the perfectionist in me couldn't live with it so I cut it off. There have got to be some better techniques out there or some kind of jigs . I'm interested in hearing what you have to say!

Thank!

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Looking for some suggestions for binding fingerboards. I tried to glue up some maple binding on a maple Finger board and it didn't go so well. I tried using some binding tape and a few clamps but I ended up some very small gaps. I could have probably let them go, but the perfectionist in me couldn't live with it so I cut it off. There have got to be some better techniques out there or some kind of jigs . I'm interested in hearing what you have to say!

Thank!

super glue

If that doesn't do it for you, you'll need some long clamping cauls that will run the entire length of the fretboard. Since the f/b is pretty thin, it'll be a PIA to clamp in place if you're doing it off of the neck.

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Looking for some suggestions for binding fingerboards. I tried to glue up some maple binding on a maple Finger board and it didn't go so well. I tried using some binding tape and a few clamps but I ended up some very small gaps. I could have probably let them go, but the perfectionist in me couldn't live with it so I cut it off. There have got to be some better techniques out there or some kind of jigs . I'm interested in hearing what you have to say!

Thank!

I always use superglue, the one which has thicker viscositie...

What I do is that I place masking tape on a marble table (garantee flat)...

Then I spread the superglue on one side of the fingerboard (not too much, just enough to make a good bond)

Then I place the fingerboard on top of the tape I previoussly placed, I place the binding and while pressing everything down, I draw the tape back and use it as a clamp...

Then I leave it dry entirely (dont use accelerator) and then start working on the other side of the board...

I prefer to waist an entire masking tape roll for the job, I dont care but at least there is good pressure...

off topic I guess: I also discovered a trick for white binding, I use white superglue, you end up with totally invisible glue joints :D

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I have a special jigg, with long adjustable aluminium rails that can adjust for any taper, leaving the fretboard exposed to clean out the slots before the glue cures.

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Thanks guys. So I am not too far off. I'll give it another go around tonight or tomorrow. So, some of you bind the finger board while it is on the neck?

I do it after it's been glued on. Everyone has their own way of doing it, and nobody is wrong. The end result is the important part, not how you got there.

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I'd like to see a picture of that jig, if possible.

I'll se what I can do. There were a thread here somewere with pics, but it seems that they have dissapeared somehow.

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Question is are you binding the guitar on a completed neck or prior to attaching the fingerboard. As was suggested wood binding should use wood glue while the fingerboard is off the guitar. A simple set of wood cauls and clamps work fine. Once the fingerboard has been glued down to the neck it becomes a bit more difficult and tape is the easiest method. Epoxy is also a good substitute here. I would not use CA glue becuse I dont feel comportable about the long-term stability of the product.

You always have two choices when doing binding. The first choice being cut the slots first, install the binding, then clip the fret tangs. Second is cut the fret slots, then hand slot the binding and live with the frets showing on the edge of the fret board.

Either method is easier with the fret board unattached to the neck.

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OK, heres the jig (with an already finished multi bound fretboard in place as a mock up)

fretboardbindingjigg.jpg

The inner oak piece is just to distribute clamping pressure along the board. The plexi part acts as a hold down to keep the fretboard in place so it doesn't pop out of the jig and the aluminium beam press the binding in place. If your fretboard edge is super straight this jig gets the binding on there quick and easy and still allows access from above so that you can clean out the fret slots before the glue cures.

I have used all type of glues for bindings. Now days I mostly use CA or epoxy as I don't want to introduce any water into the thin strips of veneer used for wooden multi layer bindings.

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I plane (handplane) the taper into my fingerboards, and have flat binding stock. Glue in place with thick superglue (particularly end grain is a pain for titebond, and I've had far better results with superglue) and simply use masking tape to hold it in place. Never had any trouble with gaps, visible glue lines or anything. If you need more than minimal finger pressure to hold binding to a fingerboard edge something's wrong with either the binding or the board. I may make an adjustable clamping jig of UHMW one day, since CA glues don't stick to that.

Way I imaging it is similar to Peter's jig, but simpler: base of UHMW plastic, one solid flat 'fence' (wood or metal, faced with a strip of UHMW plastic), another adjustable fence (t-slots or through-slots). Place fingerboard (tapered, without binding) in jig, tighten movable fence so it fits snug. Then apply glue and binding, few small bits of tape to prevent slippage, and wedge the whole thing in. The taper will ensure even pressure on both sides, and since less tape is involved, less potential for CA+tape gunk that needs scraping off.

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Way I imaging it is similar to Peter's jig, but simpler

Yeah I tend to overthink and overdo things... However this first prototype works good enough to just use it as is. But a remade version would be pretty much in line with what Mattia suggests

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