RestorationAD Posted July 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 Also I polish my frets with a buffing wheel and heavy compound so the ends are always super smooth... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted July 19, 2012 Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 then I realized that using a sanding block with 400 removed the chatter marks from the file. And 120 grit sanding block rounded the fretboard edge and the ends of the frets at the same time. Follow up with a 180 or 220 then polish with a 320 sanding pad and I get done in 5 minutes what use to take hours. i do the exact same thing except I use 320 sandpaper to remove the file marks and my sanding sponges say "Fine" and "super fine" instead of actually having a grit.I think it's the only way to go because it works beautifully and takes almost no time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 19, 2012 Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 I level my fretboards so much better these days before fretting that dress jobs take less time. I could never stress this more to anybody building a neck. All the time spent making sure the fingerboard is perfect before even considering putting frets into it shows in the quality of the fretwork. The last board I did (my BnG bass) ended up with only three frets that needed any attention, and that was just a little seating since I hammer my frets. This quote must be stamped in red ink and emblazoned across the skies! All hail. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 Level Fretboards 101: Put base radius on fretboard with huge beltsander The next step is a feel thing so YMMV. Tweak the trussrod back and forth a bit then give it a 1/16 of a turn until it just tightens up. The frets will cause backbow so by tightening the rod just a bit I simulate a little backbow. The leveling sands the bow out... this helps the fretboard be level after fretting. Once the frets have sat for a week under tension the barbs on the tangs will be fully seated in the slots and the neck should be perfect. With a very very very small amount of tension on the rod. Tune up the radius with a large Stew Mac Radius sanding beam and 120 grit. Check Slot depth Run fretsaw through all the frets and set depth. Clean slots Vacuum up the dust Tune up the radius with a large Stew Mac Radius sanding beam and 120 grit again. Level the board with large Stew Mac sanding beam and 120 grit. Vacuum up the dust Check the board using precision straight edge (from Enco) following the path of the strings across the board. Rinse Repeat Use small triangle file to campher all fret slots. Check the board using precision straight edge (from Enco) following the path of the strings across the board. Once no light shows use 220,320,400 grit sanding blocks to clean up board. Check the board using precision straight edge (from Enco) following the path of the strings across the board. Once no light shows polish board with polishing pad.... Vacuum up the dust Fret board. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 19, 2012 Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 So the precision straight edge is from Enco? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 So the precision straight edge is from Enco? SR Cheaper than the Stew Mac one. I try to get my tools from where machinists get there stuff as it is usually cheaper than Stew Mac. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 I think Stewmac lowered their prices...or else everyone else raised theirs...anyway on price checking i have come out better with Stewmac than most lately Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Some of you guys like my blades. Good news. Thanks to Wes I will be producing blades in full force for the foreseeable future. This should include 6, 7, 8 string Humbuckers and 6, 7 string single coils. Send all thank yous to westhemann. So without further ado.... Multiscale blade humbuckers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Test multiscale bobbins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Looks right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 In black abs plastic this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Test baseplate.This is not the magnet I plan on using... but it is the right width. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Phwoarrrrrr 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 With this design there is no metal not involved in the magnetic circuit. Personally I think it makes a superior pickup with no crazy eddy currents. I finished up the baseplates in abs to match the bobbins. Also moved the blades a hair closer so .492 wide magnets work. Hilarious but the mutliscale bridge and neck bobbins are almost identical to the 7 string and the 6 string bridge bobbins respectively.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Phwoarrrrrr Nice. I like when extremely talented engineers/designers are speechless... it means I did ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 You should be taking this further. You could do this a magnitude greater and I am sure you will. Hot bridge position Jazz pup please. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 You should be taking this further. You could do this a magnitude greater and I am sure you will. Hot bridge position Jazz pup please. :-) Now that the code is done it shouldn't really be an issue. Of course the Robo RAD broke again... but when it is fixed we will resume production of things and stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 omg. these are amazing. How do I get a 25.5" - 25" miltiscale set? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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