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Putting A Top On A Carved Body.


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I cant think of a good way to do this. Basically curving the body then putting the top on. Only thing I can think of is wetting the top corner pretty good, steaming it on, and clamping the bejesus out of it, and hoping it doesnt come undone. If its overly difficult, I'll just do a flat top haha. My concern is that I'd like to do natural binding on the guitar.

this is basically what Im asking.

G0105NT_suhrSS_13a.jpg

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Sounds like you're asking about a veneer. Most people that veneer do it often have vacuum forming equiptment. I've also heard of people using bags of sand.

I've never done it, just repeating what I've read.

What I suggest is actually putting a top on, not a veneer and then carving the top like what most people do.

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If you are doing a drop top you can actually (if planing good) make a series of relief cuts in the back of the top (OK, I have not done it personally, but seen it made) not extending all the way to the edge of the top. I believe there was a thread on this forum that showed how to do it.

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If you are doing a drop top you can actually (if planing good) make a series of relief cuts in the back of the top (OK, I have not done it personally, but seen it made) not extending all the way to the edge of the top. I believe there was a thread on this forum that showed how to do it.

that is not so good if you are going for the natural binding look

heat , mositure, time and clamps will get you there as long as the top is not too thick and your forearm contour not too drastic.

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its a 1/4" top, shouldnt be too drastic, but not a veneer by any means. This also means its not thick enough to do a carved top either, which would be cool, but would leave me thin bands around the edge, not what Im goin for.

Im most likely gonna just go with a flat top, just to be safe/easier.

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DSC02793.jpg

Hard but not impossible. 1/4" quilt, I glued the top making sure that there was no glue on the arm rest area, and allowed to dry overnight. Then I wet the arm rest area, placed a damp towel on top and with an iron steamed it for about 3-5 minutes, once it started to get pliable I used quite a few clamps and clamped it down slowly. The trick is to go slow and make sure that the wood is pliable enough. You can test this by pushing on it once in a while, mine started to feel like soft urethane when I thought it was ready to bend. Once you bend it all the way down, let it dry overnight. I used a heat gun in low to blow some air between the mahogany and the maple and on the top a little. Once the top appeared dry, I left it till the next day. Removed the clamps, added glue with a brush to reach all the way into the arm rest and clamped again. Once dry I routed the top on a table router

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If you are doing a drop top you can actually (if planing good) make a series of relief cuts in the back of the top (OK, I have not done it personally, but seen it made) not extending all the way to the edge of the top. I believe there was a thread on this forum that showed how to do it.

that is not so good if you are going for the natural binding look

Just make a cut within the outline of the body, using a cirkular saw and you should be able to have the perimeter of the body unharmed, thus making it possible with a "faux" binding. But as stated; I have not tried this personally, just seen pics of it being done. Someting like this (looking from the "back" of the top):

reliefcuts.jpg

staying clear of the edge of the body.

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