maull Posted December 31, 2012 Report Share Posted December 31, 2012 You really do some nice clean work. I am awed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levi79 Posted December 31, 2012 Report Share Posted December 31, 2012 I've always wanted to try the magnetic cavity covers. Would you mind sharing where you got the magnets and what ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted December 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2012 I cant find the exact site I used because I ordered them so long ago, but this site seems to have the sizes you would need http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=10 I use all 1/4" diameter. 1/8" thickness for the cavity cover, 1/16" for the truss cover 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted January 2, 2013 Report Share Posted January 2, 2013 I like that there groovey lookin fretboard very funkadelic indeed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted January 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 I'm hoping to get this thing back from finish later today or tomorrow then I can get her together and ready to go. I decided I did not like the three piece design of the humbucker bobbins. They were not as clean as I wanted so I re-made all four. This time they are one piece solid ebony and I am much happier with them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted January 10, 2013 Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 Getting the body down to about 1 1/4" REALLY? Do you not like your appendages? Sorry, It is really none of my business if you disregard safely. However in the future for the impressionable nOObs that come here to learn how to build guitars I ask that you note when you do things in an unsafe manner. I appreciate your detailed threads and I hope you continue to contribute to the forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted January 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 Getting the body down to about 1 1/4" REALLY? Do you not like your appendages? Sorry, It is really none of my business if you disregard safely. However in the future for the impressionable nOObs that come here to learn how to build guitars I ask that you note when you do things in an unsafe manner. I appreciate your detailed threads and I hope you continue to contribute to the forum. I do appologize. This is a dumb way of thicknessing boards but its what I have to work with for now. I have done other bodys since and now use a method cutting in sections that keeps my hands away from the bit at all times. I would not suggest anyone attempting to immatate this process as it can be very dangerous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted January 10, 2013 Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 Getting the body down to about 1 1/4" REALLY? Do you not like your appendages? Sorry, It is really none of my business if you disregard safely. However in the future for the impressionable nOObs that come here to learn how to build guitars I ask that you note when you do things in an unsafe manner. I appreciate your detailed threads and I hope you continue to contribute to the forum. I do appologize. This is a dumb way of thicknessing boards but its what I have to work with for now. I have done other bodys since and now use a method cutting in sections that keeps my hands away from the bit at all times. I would not suggest anyone attempting to immatate this process as it can be very dangerous. No worries I was not trying to be rude just don't want to see a talented builder (or anyone else) hurt themselves because they did not think safety first. Saying I will just do this to get it done and not thinking safety first is a recipe for disaster. As a veteran builder and poster on this forum I feel it is important for me to explain all aspects of guitar building, safety included, and I hope that new contributors would feel the same. For your safety I suggest you change your blank thickness methods. I am not saying don't use the pin router because it is a viable tool when used correctly. I am saying make it as safe as you can. If I was going to try and make that setup safer I would make a fence that allowed me to rest the wood against as I fed into the router. I would set it up so that I could quickly move it incrementally allowing the bit to only cut half its width and at a depth acceptable for the HP of the router. Do some research on router feed and pin router so you get the fence on the correct side. I would also build a dedicated stand for the machine so I could ensure I was in the proper position to safely feed wood into the router. Basically try to get your arms and hands clear of the machine. And see about making it so you can feed the board with push blocks so your fingers are farther away. Also I would make sure the arm is VERY secure. That would involve lock washers and possible nylon locking nuts to bold it to the table. Clamps can vibrate lose. I would like to see what you come up with. Did you build the over arm? It looks pretty cool even devoid of the safety features. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agent_zed Posted January 10, 2013 Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 that is looking awesome. purely out of interest what is the reason for the thin front piece (stained blue) is it a different wood/grain or style wise to get the line around the edge? or something to do with sound? i'm pretty new to building guitars so don;t want to be missing something important love the chamfers think my next one will be chamfered, went with round over this time. nice job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted January 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 RAD- The arm was built by my dad. I want to make a jig that can carve a neck accurately and repeatably so I needed the over arm router but they are way too expensive for me at the moment so we designed it and he welded it up. I need to figure out the rest of the jig and then I will build a secure table and stand for the arm. Body thicknessing was not the intended purpose but it works for now. Zed- If you a refering to the blue face of the body, that is a western maple top, and was choosen by the customer for its grain pattern. It is very thin and I'm not sure if it would have a noticable affect on the tone. Also welcome to the forum! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted January 11, 2013 Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 RAD- The arm was built by my dad. I want to make a jig that can carve a neck accurately and repeatably so I needed the over arm router but they are way too expensive for me at the moment so we designed it and he welded it up. I need to figure out the rest of the jig and then I will build a secure table and stand for the arm. Body thicknessing was not the intended purpose but it works for now. Your old man did a killer job on the over arm. \m/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agent_zed Posted January 12, 2013 Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 Yeah it was that bit I was wondering about. Yeah that's a nice grain. Really nice guitar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Well guys I messed this one up to the point were I didnt feel comfortable sending it out so I talked to the customer and decided to do a version two along with a second build that he wanted which is awesome! The second build Is based on a Vik Duality with a black limba body, quilted maple top, rosewood neck, munn ebony fb, custom maple humbuckers and finished with a violet to red burst. Heres some pics of where Im at now: This wood blemish looks like an apple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 This one has really extensive carves, at least compaired to anything I done as of yet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 So I have a question for you guys. With the last build I did using quilted maple my finish came out alittle wavy because of the grain. Certain spots are softer and sand quicker leaving the harder grain raised. I know I can fix this with extra time with a decent size sanding block on the flat parts but the carves on this one are worrying me. I have rubber spindles with 80 grit on them from my occilating sander that I was using but due to such a small area of contact when sanding I think I'm just going to be following the waves in the grain rather then flattening them. I have a good scraper fresh from stewmac but the grain makes it very difficult to pull an even carve with it. Is there any tricks I might be missing that would help? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 You've got some very clean edged coves and carves going there. I've made a variety of stiff yet flexible sanding blocks out screen printing squeegee blade material. I know it's not exactly a household item, but it's typically 3/8" thick by 2.5" wide by whatever length you cut it to polyeurethane. The surfaces are smooth and flat and stiiff enough to level the grain variences of the quilt, but flexible enough to follow mild contours. I made a variety of sizes and shapes to handle the various contours in my carves. I also use the dense foam sanding pads that come with a box of micro mesh sheets and cut them to a few different sizes and shapes. Alternating between all these I'm able to keep the contours level. You may be able to get some old squeegee blades from a screen printing shop or find something similar. You just want to make some blocks with curved surfaces, with a little conformability. Be sure to round the edges a little so they ride the contours instead of digging into them. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Thanks for the info Scott! I'll try and find some sort of rubber material with the stiffness/ flexiblity I need. My dad does body work on cars so Ill have to go raid his toolbox haha. Wanted to make sure the straplock wouldnt just rip out of the thin horn so I burried it a bit All carves are now roughed in, still needs a bit of clean up but the hard parts done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oblaty Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 looks pretty much like Vik Guitars´ duality series to me.. but nice clean work! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HCRoadie Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 (edited) Is this hole for the strap lock or for pyro? I'm hoping pyro! Edited March 15, 2013 by HCRoadie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted March 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 looks pretty much like Vik Guitars´ duality series to me.. but nice clean work! Yep thats the idea haha. I really like the shape and the way it flows. I have a new respect for Vik if he is hand carving each one, its definitely not easy. HC- That does look like a good spot for some sort of flame thrower/ morter launcher haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HCRoadie Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 HC- That does look like a good spot for some sort of flame thrower/ morter launcher haha Just sayin...Also, the work you are doing is excellent. It is creative, beautiful, and very well executed. Anyone who is fortunate enough to be in possesion of one of your works, should consider themselves very lucky. Keep up the good art/work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted March 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 Thanks HC, I do appreciate it! Figured out the colors for the seven and duality based guitar on some scrap wood seven- version of a lagoon burst, blue to natural burst duality- red/pink to violet burst Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pan_kara Posted March 20, 2013 Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 Wow, they're both lookin awesome! Black limba and black&white ebony - two woods that I always wanted to try but can't seem to find any reasonalbe source in Europe.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted March 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 Wow, they're both lookin awesome! Black limba and black&white ebony - two woods that I always wanted to try but can't seem to find any reasonalbe source in Europe.. Thanks! I really love the black limba its gorgeous to look at and a pleasure to work with, I definitely plan on using it in more of my builds. here some lumber sites with an assortment of different size limba, prices arnt too bad but I am not sure what shipping will be like. https://www.gilmerwood.com/items.php?species=Limba&CID=31 https://www.cookwoods.com/lumber-site/?s_cs=1&s=black+limba&x=0&y=0 http://www.byoguitar.com/Guitars/Black-LimbaKorina-Body-Blank__BYO-BLANK-BL.aspx As for the sanding issue I was worried about: I checked out my dads body work supplies and found he had some stiff durablock foam/rubber sanding blocks. He was nice enough to let me use them for a bit and I gotta say they worked great! The Tops are dead flat and the carves are as smooth as can be. I was sad to have to return the blocks so I went on amazon a found a 7 peice set for about $34. This may or may not seem expensive to you but after testing them I think its worth the price. They will last a very long time (my dad has had the same set for years even though hes working and sanding multiple cars daily). This is the only set I found at this price, the others are $45 and up for the same blocks. Theres 17 left in stock so if youre interested check it out soon! http://www.amazon.com/Dura-Block-Af44a-Dura-Block-Kit/dp/B003978QGQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1363962959&sr=8-4&keywords=durablock 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted March 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 Frets, side dots, truss covers, and rough neck carves My sig will be on the truss cover on this one because theres not much room else where on the headstock Ebony raven inlaid to compliment the ebony buckers and other black hardware Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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