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7 String F


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Did you not like the 26" scale? I really enjoy the 26.5" scale on my 7-string and advocate it a lot for people new to sevens. 27" is pretty much the gold standard in my opinion but the transition for "normal" scale length players to 26.5" is pretty immediate.

Reviewing the thread, I am surprised by the amount of epoxy evangelism going on. I've spent the last six months learning a lot of technical aspects of adhesion/cohesion in wood glues and can't agree more than PU glues are the worst for anything that resembles or is even close to fine woodworking. The water content of glues is definitely an issue however not one that can't be worked around as long as you have the time to do so. Epoxy is amazing stuff - extremely forgiving of crappy joining and resistant to virtually anything other than thermonuclear attack. For simple things like scarfs and fingerboards (other than problematic exotics, reactive or highly absorbent woods of course) it seems like overkill, especially when one of the golden rules with glues is that they should be appropriately simple to prepare and use for the work in question. I was considering the use of epoxy to slab up both halves of my workbench top, however given how fast and ordered I had to work just using simple aliphatics I hate to think how overly nightmarish it would be with epoxy. I guess the field of work I am studying has quite a degree of KISS in there.

So anyway, you were saying....?

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I like the 26" scale,I just put the project aside to take up later.It is totally salvageable,I just need to approach it with a good attitude towards sanding off the entire epoxy sealer coat.

I had a 27.5" scale 6 string ESP a while back.It sounded really,really nice.

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Bridge routing done

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Don't worry that it appears that the one allen bolt hits the back of the rout,because it actually is screwed out further than it will be when the string lock is in that saddle and the bridge sits further forward a hair besides.

The router mark you see is from leveling the bocote to match the wings.It's shallow and will sand out when I block level the top.Obviously I haven't even cleaned off the glue yet.

Next step will be routing for pups and battery,then I'll block sand everything level before I start the contouring

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That's not it.The pup cavity is not centered.The pup rout for the emg 81-7 moved a good 1/8" in the clamps but I neverr saw it because the template is wood.Those routing dings are nothing,that's just where I shaved down the bocote to match the top earlier but had not sanded it before routing.

At this point I still think I need to cut the neck off and make a set neck.I can save the body wings for another neck through in the future and just scrap the bocote mid section.When the template slipped it also went a bit crooked so I just can't see how to make the rout look nice at this point.

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So why titebond?

I did some testing.I sometimes have to fill pinholes in a glue bond with CA where the glue wicks in and starves part of the joint,so I did some simulations since this always worried me.What I did was I titebonded a small piece of bocote with a lot of breaking leverage to a piece of rock maple.When the titebond was only about 4 hours cured I broke the joint clean at the glue line,then waited for the glue to dry on both pieces apart.Then I stuck it BACK together with CA glue without removing the dried titebond....

This is the result after cure

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As you can see it was extremely strong.The CA bonded to the titebond,which was bonded to the woods,and the resulting bond was such that the bocote broke rather than give at the bond.Very unscientific,but I am quite thoroughly satisfied that even in a slightly less than perfect joint that would require filling pinholes with CA after titebond cured that the resulting joint would still be stronger than the wood..even bocote,which is so strong that even with all that leverage against less than a square inch of surface area it was all I could do to break it by hand.

So,my faith renewed, I used titebond

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And now I only have to wait

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I'm with you Wes, don't lower your standards just for the sake of saving some wood. I'm against waste, but not for the price of quality. I think your idea of a set neck and wings for another build is the way to go.

What I have discovered is that if I finish a guitar after covering up a mistake all I do is stare at it and I can't play it because I know it sucks and I can't sell it because I know it sucks.

So I just am not going to do it anymore.If I can't fix a mistake to be better than before I made the mistake then it gets destroyed...no exceptions.It's the only way to keep myself honest,not to mention sane.

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