westhemann Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 My current project is a 7 string F "tribute".I have had this big chunk of bocote taunting me for years,so I decided to just turn it into a neck through Flame maple top on the wings and the back will be ash.My first attempt was with an Afromisa back,but I had a run in with Gorilla glue and all my test cuts broke right at the glue line under very little pressure,so I am in the process off fixing that.Meanwhile I routed the truss rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted April 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 The fretboard I got from HuntinDoug.It's 27.5" scale and has 27 fret slots...which is why I decided on the F shape.No other shape looks so good on a baritone and has such balance while standing.I don't know what the wood is. And a little bling to set it off.Maple veneer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireFly Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 The acid streaks in the grain would throw me off so much when it comes to making that center line to route on for the truss rod. Good times! I'll be watching this now that I'm not tied up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 For some reason, I can't see the pics... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted April 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 I can't imagine why...they are public view Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 it was a SSL issue, solved now... nice woods there, love the fretboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pukko Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 Nice woods there! Could the fretboard be ziricote? I had to try photoshopping that body shape without the humps in the body lines. It could work that way too! Not as much METAL!!! though. I guess that the fact that the upper strap button is pretty high up (in line with the 10-11 fret) helps the balance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted April 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 Ziricote..yeah,I just went back and found the sale topic I bought them from and that is what it is http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/topic/47095-fretboards-neck-for-sale/ I guess that the fact that the upper strap button is pretty high up (in line with the 10-11 fret) helps the balance? Exactly.The upper horn is very long and the cutaway is very deep.It's a really great design IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Always great to see your work wes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 That bocote has already darkened, you must have had it for quite a while. (I know....you said years). Good call to set of the bocote and ziricote with maple, I think they would have been competing otherwise. I hope you threw all the gorilla glue out. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 This looks like a fun project. I think there is a wenge movement going on this month as several of us are using it. Personally I love its tone and look... as a builder I hate its splinters, caustic dust, weight, soft spots and grain patterns. First time I used it I made some serious mistakes. One was using the riftsawn pieces for a neck, in and of itself it is not that bad a mistake because Wenge is so stiff and strong. But I think taking a scraper to that same riftsawn Wenge neck was the worst. It caused uneven spots everywhere I hit the soft grain. I ended up using sanding blocks for a few days to straighten the neck back out because the rasps made a mess as well. Now whenever I use Wenge I use flat sanders and sanding blocks for everything to avoid making the surface uneven. I hate gorilla glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 I hope you threw all the gorilla glue out. Yup. I have changed the shape somewhat.After all of the changing stuff to install the ash in place of the afromisa I lost a bit of width on the maple,so instead of using the standard F outline I am now using the Forest GT outline,which is somewhat smaller and more refined.I'll take pictures later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Actually why wait? I have the fretboard glued on as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Okay so I needed to rout a wiring channel before glue up No,this doesn't scare me at all! I would have liked to have made it perfectly straight even though it can never be seen,but I was incredibly wary of the chance of the bit hitting the steel ruler as I plunged it in,but it will be fine.the hole in the corner will meet the control cavity when I rout it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 And glue up after cutting but before sanding...I don't want to sand out clamp marks Now...waiting for glue to dry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Looks like you went and got some T-88. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Yup.I did the break test on my plank cutoffs with the T88 and it was strong as hell,like always. Gorilla glue is the devil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Is epoxy stronger bond then wood glue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Not really.Both are plenty strong,I just like epoxy because it doesn't have any water in it so it doesn't make the wood try to move in the clamps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Polyurethane glues do not gap fill with any strength. You have to make a tight joint for them to work properly. Then there is the whole wet thing....T-88 is good stuff. I like it but sometimes it is too thick for some really tight grained exotic woods. I had a real mess with it last year and an ebony top.Man if you search for glue on this forum you should get pages pages of hits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Polyurethane glues do not gap fill with any strength. You have to make a tight joint for them to work properly. Then there is the whole wet thing.... T-88 is good stuff. I like it but sometimes it is too thick for some really tight grained exotic woods. I had a real mess with it last year and an ebony top. Man if you search for glue on this forum you should get pages pages of hits. Im aware haha. I know a few builders that use epoxy exclusively, and I know people that swear against it! Obviously a preference thing. I think the benefit is the rapid cure time of the epoxy vs the wood glue... I may be switching myself honestly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 No.If the epoxy has a "rapid cure time"then it is not as strong..just consider it the rule of thumb for epoxy.24 hour cure is all you want.It gives it time to wick in to the wood and create a stronger bond. 5 minute epoxy is crap.Stay away from it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted April 23, 2013 Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 (edited) No.If the epoxy has a "rapid cure time"then it is not as strong..just consider it the rule of thumb for epoxy.24 hour cure is all you want.It gives it time to wick in to the wood and create a stronger bond. 5 minute epoxy is crap.Stay away from it. Oh I figured that 6 hour stuff was pretty good, I've used it to glue in frets, but I guess frets dont really have the same types of stresses as the woods Edited April 23, 2013 by bob123 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireFly Posted April 23, 2013 Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 I think every glue has its place. I use wood glue to bond wood to wood in any case, and i use superglue in my fret tangs before i tap them in. I'm currently using epoxy as a grain filler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgmorg Posted April 23, 2013 Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 I generally use wood glue too, except when I need a longer working time. Then I go for the epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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