renablistic Posted January 17, 2004 Report Share Posted January 17, 2004 I've started to build my first neck out of pine. I'm using measurements off my ibanez wizard(ish) neck. And it has a headstock angle (and i hate guitars w/o em) and so i have to copy the angle.... i have it drawn out, and theres enough wood, but ummmmm, i don't know how to cut it.... The miter saw doesn't look like it'll do the job, i don't have a bandsaw, and the rotozip (kinda like a torqued up and bigger version of a dremel) seems like it would take too long... I saw the tutorial that says to cut the triangle, then glue the removed triangle on the reverse, and cut again, but i can't do that, i've already gone too far... any help would be appreciated. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars Posted January 17, 2004 Report Share Posted January 17, 2004 Doing a 1 piece, or gluing on? Also, jigsaes work, but I'd find a bandsaw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAI6 Posted January 17, 2004 Report Share Posted January 17, 2004 I don't know much about building guitars, but I do seem to remember someone on this board asking about using pine for guitars, and the general opinion seemed to be that pine is too soft. Or am I wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
renablistic Posted January 17, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2004 Doing a 1 piece, or gluing on? Also, jigsaes work, but I'd find a bandsaw. I'm doing a 1 piece, and glueing on extra wood on the end so that it's thick enough to cut an angle. I don't know if that's what you meant, or if you meant doing that odd u-joint thing ibanez does? Yea, so far i've used a jigsaw for every cut... but i'm not sure it would work in this situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
renablistic Posted January 17, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2004 I don't know much about building guitars, but I do seem to remember someone on this board asking about using pine for guitars, and the general opinion seemed to be that pine is too soft. Or am I wrong? yes that is correct, it is WAY too soft. I'm just build like 4 or 5 practice necks out of pine because it's cheap, and I don't wanna waste money on maple or mahogany or anything else I might mess up on. Hell, this first neck might turn out perfect, but chances are is that if i woulda done it with maple first, something bad woulda happened, i have bad luck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars Posted January 17, 2004 Report Share Posted January 17, 2004 FWIW, maple is cheaper than pine. So you're doing it like alex's tutorial? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krazyderek Posted January 17, 2004 Report Share Posted January 17, 2004 i lay my neck on it's side (before it's shaped), clamp it down, and use the miter saw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
renablistic Posted January 17, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2004 I looked at the tutorials to give me an idea, but basically i took the 1 by 4 and i measured, and i started. I figure by the 5th one i do, i'll have developed a way to do it with ease. Tommorow I'm picking up a rasp or two, and a file or two, gonna try the rotozip to put in the headstock angle, and see where it goes... and Litch, I dunno if maple is available at home depot? but at home depot a 6 foot piece of 1 by 4 is 6 bucks, it's double that on stew mac... and "board feet" and all those fancy measurements on the web aren't much help... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted January 18, 2004 Report Share Posted January 18, 2004 um.... how about ditching the power tools (Rotozip??? Are you high?) This job can be done with a hand saw. You use you hand, in conjunction with your arm, in a recipricating back-and-forward motion. Then you use a plane, also with the hand/arm tag team, to true up the faces. It's amazing the things you can accomplish without ever plugging into a power outlet. </sarcasm> Secondly, it you're having to glue on a piece, angle it to get the strongest grain orientation - you've already lost the aesthetic appeal of a one piece, so you may as well trade that against the improved strength of an angled scarf joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
balooka Posted January 18, 2004 Report Share Posted January 18, 2004 FWIW, I've made a little 13 degree jig in which I clamp down the (unshaped) neck and only use my router with a medium/large bit in it to shape it. Then I turn the piece around, both hor. and vert. and do the same, with a different depth ofcourse. leaving me with a perfect 13 degree angled headstock in any thickness I want.... I'll post a pic if I can find a digicam somewhere. JP ps. The jig I copied from a guitarsite somewhere... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Luthier Posted January 18, 2004 Report Share Posted January 18, 2004 FWIW, maple is cheaper than pine. Where do you buy wood? At my local places Pine is around 2$ BF and Maple is around 8$ BF or more, and that's just the plain Maple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbkim Posted January 18, 2004 Report Share Posted January 18, 2004 BTW, what does FWIW mean? I've seen people use it and am wondering. For what it's worth . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Luthier Posted January 18, 2004 Report Share Posted January 18, 2004 BTW, what does FWIW mean? I've seen people use it and am wondering. For what it's worth . Yeah, I quickly Googled FWIW and found that out, so I edited my post, but you were too quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krazyderek Posted January 19, 2004 Report Share Posted January 19, 2004 i just cut the angled peghead on 2 necks using my compound mitter saw, laying the neck blank on it's side with 2 clamps to keep it positioned correctly to the blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Luthier Posted January 19, 2004 Report Share Posted January 19, 2004 I use my bandsaw and then one of my belt sanders to flaten out the surface, though I guess you can't do it that way. A scrollsaw would work, but would probably take forever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 19, 2004 Report Share Posted January 19, 2004 the miter saw is the perfect tool for that imo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krazyderek Posted January 19, 2004 Report Share Posted January 19, 2004 I use my bandsaw and then one of my belt sanders to flaten out the surface, though I guess you can't do it that way. A scrollsaw would work, but would probably take forever. I considered doing it that way but i wanted something with a bit more accuracy insurance, looks like it woked out pretty good for you the miter saw is the perfect tool for that imo no need to worry about blade wander, but think i do need a new sharper blade, thinking about trying out of those fraud 80 tpi carbon blades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars Posted January 19, 2004 Report Share Posted January 19, 2004 FWIW, maple is cheaper than pine. Where do you buy wood? At my local places Pine is around 2$ BF and Maple is around 8$ BF or more, and that's just the plain Maple. Well, I shop at Windsor and I get my maple 1x4s for $1.09 a BF. Pine is abot $2.30 a BF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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