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SuperStrat Build


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I've been away for a few years building my business at the repair shop and getting caught up in life (house, wife, band). I'm finally to a point where I can get back to building! 

I haven't had a new guitar in a few years so this build is for me. It originally was to be a evh frankenstrat style build. As much as I like Eddie, with that paint job, I wouldn't have played it out. Here's the run down on specifications and the pictures so far:

25.5" scale, maple neck, 10-16" compound radius, with Dunlop 6100 frets and a two way rod. The body is alder and is routed for a bridge hum, volume control, and a non-recessed OFR.

I've been using nitro since I started building. This one is my first shot at 2k automotive finish. I'm done spraying and I can't kelp but think about why it took me so long to switch! Prepare your eyes for the blazing color! 

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The neck is carved to an asymmetrical profile .825" at the 1st fret  and .925" at the 15th.

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Did my feet work.  Pre radius the wire, hammered them in, and filed the ends. I did a full level, crown, and polish. The neck is finished with tung oil and wax. I'll snag sme picks of the completed neck tomorrow.

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Full shot before the fretwork or paint. 

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Here it is prepped, primed, base coated, and cleared. I used the PPG Omni paint line. Omni has a 2k high build primer, acrylic base, and 2k high solids clear. It was quite cold so I kept the paint and guitar inside before spraying. I also used fast hardener. The color code is PPG 2128. If you're into muscle cars it'll probably look really familiar ;) It'll have the bwb pickguard and all black hardware.

Tomorrow I'll cut, buff, and hopefully assemble. 

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@Prostheta I am very impressed with how quick and how nicely the 2k worked out. I've actually had the system for a few years and never tried it because i was unsure about the skill level required. I am for sure going to make that my primary finish type. This time around I used a mask worth the proper carts,  but that's for sure not a long term solution. I need to upgrade to a air fed mask. 

@KnightroExpress and @djobson101 I'm so stoked to have a new guitar. I haven't built or gotten a new one in a few years. I have 3-4 projects that are ready for fretwork and paint that I'm going to buckle down and complete. 

Thanks for checking it out! 

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Air fed and a Tyvek coverall is recommended. I know we can't all go to these lengths sometimes, but central nervous systems don't grow on trees. 2k is great but I try and get other people to shoot it. The premix to order can versions don't seem to come with warnings strong enough. Not respirating it is definitely the priority. Skin if you make a long term habit out of shooting 2k. :lol:

That looks damn flat. How much clear went over the solid? 

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@Prostheta the body had some crazy cracks because I used some scraps. I filled said cracks with bondo. Then I did 3 coats sanding sealer, sanded p220. 3 coats primer , sanded p600. 2 coats base. 1 dust and 3 heavy full coats of clear and let it cure for 4 days.

It was hard foam blocked from p1000-p2000, then buffed with some meguires.

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That's a proper nuclear-proof 80s paint schedule too, especially the filler over defects. I've found far worse under solid painted 80s/90s instruments.

It just gets more and more authentic. :D

In many ways it reminds me of the Dingwall Combustion model they made for Nolly of Periphery, just short of a faux carbon fibre pickguard!

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Wow, I'd like to know more about the mechanism behind that....it's almost like telling me that a sheet of Plexi would shrink! I could understand it more with 1k, nitro or other evaporative solvent finish, but a catalyst/hardener-based paint should be totally done within the timeframe of the chemical reactions. At risk of derailing, I'd like to know more about your 2k Luis. It sounds like something is up.

New Mexico might go some way as to providing a catchall here of course.

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