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7 & 8 string axe's


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7 string.......

Cutting the Korina

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luckilly we got a single big peice of wood so this is just one chunk

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A peice of Cedar, cutting the scarf joint

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The necks of both axe's, the thre peice is for the 8 string

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Gluing the fretboard

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prep for routing the headstock

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putting in the frets

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headstock routed and tuners fitted

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I love seeing the shots of glue ups on the display case.:) My friend MexicanBreed used to say it was very difficult to get Mexican woods locally. While not all of your timbers are local, some of them appear to be. Do you have any trouble sourcing them? I'm seeing Seymour Duncan pick-ups in most of your builds. Do you like those best or is that what you carry in your shop? (Or both?) You do some nice work, and judging from your GOTM entry, your wife does too!

SR

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Yeah! That tickles me as well, Scott. Good call on adding the work light to your router sled. I hate working blind, so that's good to see.

Your top clamping might benefit from use of a few convex cauls; long straight beams of wood which are clamped on either side. The centre of the convex part presses onto the centre of the top first, then tightening the clamps bends it until the outside contact the top. It minimises the number of clamps you need and distributes pressure really nicely. Over the width of a guitar body, a convex caul only needs about 1/8" or so of rise in the arc. Does this make sense?

Essentially these overpriced commercial versions:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,43838&p=67309

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3 hours ago, ScottR said:

I love seeing the shots of glue ups on the display case.:) My friend MexicanBreed used to say it was very difficult to get Mexican woods locally. While not all of your timbers are local, some of them appear to be. Do you have any trouble sourcing them? I'm seeing Seymour Duncan pick-ups in most of your builds. Do you like those best or is that what you carry in your shop? (Or both?) You do some nice work, and judging from your GOTM entry, your wife does too!

SR

Oh it IS difficult to get good wood, the Chinese are taking it all! I was told by a wood store that the Chinese are paying better prices for most woods (than Mexicans) and that beuties such as Ziricote are being sold waay more expensive to the US.

All timbers in these guitars are local, Korina (here called Caoba Blanca) grows all thru central america, that includes the lower states of Mexico.

We sell Seymour's in our shop, we buy them directly from St Barbara CA, so we have plenty to choose from. Since I install 3 or 4 pups a month I get to hear them and know what they sound like, I love doing that hehe! but the 8 string is going to have Lace Alumiwhatever, that,s what the client asked for, I'm dying to hear them and know how good they are.

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2 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Yeah! That tickles me as well, Scott. Good call on adding the work light to your router sled. I hate working blind, so that's good to see.

Your top clamping might benefit from use of a few convex cauls; long straight beams of wood which are clamped on either side. The centre of the convex part presses onto the centre of the top first, then tightening the clamps bends it until the outside contact the top. It minimises the number of clamps you need and distributes pressure really nicely. Over the width of a guitar body, a convex caul only needs about 1/8" or so of rise in the arc. Does this make sense?

Essentially these overpriced commercial versions:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,43838&p=67309

Yeah that lamp helps a lot, it's the battery powered one that INCRA sells.

Thank you for the tip on the convex cauls, I'll give it a shot next time. On this one I used screws in the middle, where the Humbucker will be, I don't think it was the best idea yet it glued OK.

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Today I started getting the fretboard to size. Good ol shooting board.

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I allready had it laying around from a previous ax where the client didn't like the colours, he said he wanted it just plain dark with no white streaks. Personally I like the streaks.

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Here are some old pics of me making the fanned fretboard

First just laying out the line with a cutter

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Then use a Stewmac little jap saw

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Finally I used a big Jap saw for the full depth, sorry no pic.

Thanks for watching!

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On 1/2/2016 at 2:18 PM, Prostheta said:

Sweet. I didn't realise it was an INCRA product! Their gear absolutely rocks. I just wish I could afford more of it. :unsure:

Yeah, they have great stuff. This lamp aint expensive, just 28 bucks, it's battery powered and holds on with a magnet. All I did is screw on a peice of metal on the template, I then atach the lamp when needed.

 http://www.incrementaltools.com/iGaging_ZoomFLEX_Flexible_Arm_Magnetic_Work_Light_p/iga-34-1480-z.htm

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Today I put in the side dots on the fretboard. I came up with a little "jig" to keep the dots in line, it worked pretty well yet any pics of your system are welcome.

Here is a side view of how I hold the tiny "jig" (if we can call it that)

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A close up to the "jig", it's just a small pecie of aluminium with a hole (same bit used for side dots). I clamp it to the fretboard which will keep the bit from wandering.

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And a dry fit to the body to check it's the right size.

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7 hours ago, Norris said:

That's a neat little jig. I like that idea

It needs to be perfected, the base was too small so the jig  had a tendency to shift, next time I'll make it with a wider base. With base I mean the flat part which laches on to the back of the fretboard, it needs to be wider with 2 bolts to latch ln correctly.

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On 27/3/2016 at 2:37 AM, 10pizza said:

real classy looking! was there not enough wood to recess the round cavity cover?

love the colour mix.

 

It was 9 AM and I had to deliver the guitar at 10 AM, there wasn't enough time! The client had a gig  and wanted the ax ASAP.

 

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Aaaaaaaaaahhh.............................. How things can get complicated!

The client for the 8 string guitar asked me to change it into a 7 string.......so I had to make a new fretboard (since it's a Fanned fret the distances would change if I just made it norrower).

First I made an MDF template of the new fretboard and bridge, the one to the right came out wrong so I had to make another one (to the left) in which i meassured the distances, held down the bridges with double tape and drilled a small mark of where the holes must be.

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Mind you that my drill press stopped working so I had to think of another way to drill the holes sorrectly on the body. In these bridges the strings go all the way to the other side.

On the marks I had made I used this little whatsitsname to drill the holes STRAIGHT in the MDF.

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I then used those holes to hold the template on the guitar by screwing them in.

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I put in the bridges (sorry no pic) and used them as a Template to mark where the body thru holes will be  and used the same whatsitsname. BUT the drill bits would only go half way thru (not long enough). I went as far as I could on all 7 holes.

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Since the holes in the MDF ere straight they hold the bit in position to drill in the rest and get to the other side. ONLY ON 7 & 1st STRINGS.

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I flipped the body and held the Template on the 7 & 1 strings, with srews, and used the Template to drill in the other half from back to top (the first half was done from top to back).

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