SIMpleONe89 Posted June 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Can't neglect the mahogany back! It looks real nice actually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Yeah, I've read the same kind of things too. The alternative to dyeing the wood directly is to shoot toner coats over the top after the wood is sealed. Some woods can be very blotchy, such as Birch for example. I'm not sure if there is a 100% reliable method of fixing it, however I know fine woodworkers tend to use conditioners, certainly. How they work or what they contain isn't something I've looked into. Perhaps look up their MSDS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Toner coats would work but too bad I don't have spray equipment and I can't get toner lacquer cans compatible with the clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 2 hours ago, SIMpleONe89 said: Toner coats would work but too bad I don't have spray equipment and I can't get toner lacquer cans compatible with the clear. I'm not sure what clear lacquer you're using (or your location!). If nitro-cellulose, then this chap does a good range of coloured N-C rattle cans: Manchester Guitar Tech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Thanks. I'm in Sydney and we do have a supplier of nitro toners but they're too pricey for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Oh I'm using acrylic lacquer btw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 9 hours ago, SIMpleONe89 said: I was contemplating spraying some transparent brown or black around the edges, because the dyed burst is pretty uneven due to the grain of the maple not absorbing as much in some areas. This left me with a few dark areas on the upper horns and lower curves. But the cool thing is when viewed in different light, the brown burst can be visible, just that the dark patches make it look really uneven. I figured out the best way was to live with it and appreciate the beauty of the figure. I don't want to mess it up since I've come a long way. I don't view that as a fault, I see it as additional figure. The darkest areas are all bookmatched too, and that is a rare thing. This top has more variety of figure than any I've seen in quite some time and I love it! SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2016 Thanks Scott! I've learned to appreciate the beauty of the bookmatched figure. Ok the weather has been kind to me the past few days, so I managed to complete all the clear coats. I used a total of 3.5x400ml cans of clear and from past experience that should be more than enough. I normally used 3 of the same cans for previous projects, but hopefully this is enough and I won't get sand throughs! Now I'll have to wait minimum of 2 weeks, but I'll wait till I finish my next project. By then it should be sufficiently cured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 8, 2016 Report Share Posted June 8, 2016 Shiny! That's going to be wicked nice when you get it all leveled and polished. That figure will be doing a belly dance. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 8, 2016 Report Share Posted June 8, 2016 Its going to need a lot of levelling though, so major attention in preventing sandthroughs is a must. I'd let it cure for a good while, scuff sand and bury the decals a bit more. It gets hella expensive with rattlecans though. I'm sure you're not entirely wanting to buy any more of them.... The acrylic clear might stay a bit plastic-y for a while yet. Like @ScottR rightly says, a light scuffing of the surface prior to laying down final coats will open up the skinned surface and allow it to degas better. A harder cure (drying in the case of acrylic) is paramount, so if you can get that now by breaking the skin and finishing it up a week after or something, fantastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2016 Yes I was worried about sanding through especially on the back. I didn't do any level sanding in between because I thought in the end all layers will fuse and I can just sand at one go. I already put about ten layers above the decal and previous experience tells me that's enough. So what should I do? Wait a bit longer and wet sanding carefully? Or wet sand in a week and lay more coats? I should've done some leveling in between. All I did was sand off dust and drips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Depends on how the solvents have built up inside. If they're trapped it leads to the usual softness people associate with acrylic. This is why I highlighted Scott's tip about scuffing the surface to break the skin. It's all about how the application allowed outgassing between layers, and unfortunately that's only a question you can answer through feel. I'm very conservative with drying times because I can be. Which brand did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 1 hour ago, Prostheta said: Depends on how the solvents have built up inside. If they're trapped it leads to the usual softness people associate with acrylic. This is why I highlighted Scott's tip about scuffing the surface to break the skin. It's all about how the application allowed outgassing between layers, and unfortunately that's only a question you can answer through feel. I'm very conservative with drying times because I can be. Which brand did you use? I'm using a local automotive acrylic http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-Aerosol-Paint-Acrylic-Clear-400g.aspx?pid=288522#Recommendations I've been using these for three years and have had great results. The guitars I finished them with are still holding up and they're quite scratch durable. The thing is I've used it for 2 projects with solid colours and 3 cans were more than enough (body and neck) and I had no sand throughs. The last time I did a stain using this was a year ago on an ash body. I can't remember how many cans I used but I remember it was a pain leveling out the ash body but I had no sand throughs. So I'm partly confident that if I wait long enough, maybe a month until my next project is finished, the finish would have cured by then and I can buff it to a high gloss. But looking at the mahogany body it is very uneven (partly because I didn't level sand in between coats) and fingers crossed I don't get a sand through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Okay, cool. You have experience with the product nailed then which is the important thing. It just comes down to time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 29 minutes ago, Prostheta said: Okay, cool. You have experience with the product nailed then which is the important thing. It just comes down to time. Waiting for a project to cure is possibly the hardest task of the build! That's why we move on to another project. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Of course! Why sit on your hands? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Just spent the whole day wet sanding and buffing the body. My arms are so sore right now. I'll leave it for a few days before assembling. I'll do the neck tomorrow. The mahogany was a pain to wet sand. I probably didn't grain fill enough and I had a few shiny low spots which I couldn't level out. I could continue wet sanding and level them out but I risk sanding through and I think the latter is worse. I already accepted it isn't perfect but it's good enough for me! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Superb! I also agree...part of the skill of this game is knowing when to stop and I think, for this, that is now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Very nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 (edited) Thanks guys. Got the neck done today. But in my excitement, I accidentally knocked the headstock against the table and this happened... After much cursing and swearing, I've decided to fix this. I don't think it will be hard to touch up. I repaired dings and chips before but the fact that I destroyed it just after making it perfect just made me really sad. Don't think I'll be able to get it perfect again but some drop fills with lacquer or even super glue should do the trick. I think the dye is still in the wood. Edited June 26, 2016 by SIMpleONe89 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 Some more shots of both the neck and body. I think I may have to re-sand some low shiny areas on the body. Apart from that stupid chip and some low spots on the mahogany back, I think I'm pretty satisfied with this rattle can job. This is probably the best high gloss finish I've ever done. It only took me 6 tries hahaha. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted June 26, 2016 Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 Looks great, I love the dying in the neck... that chip is totally fixable, it just need more time. If you've used nitro in the finish, it will be easier than you expect. Hitting the guitar while polishing.., I don't think there's somebody here in the forum who never did it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 26, 2016 Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 So true! I once dropped one face down on the concrete garage floor literally seconds after wiping off the final polish. This is beautiful by the way. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 Thanks guys. Ok now I feel better that I'm not the only one to commit such a silly mistake! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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