3rd build - 6 string neck through single cut bass

[SIMpleONe89]

With the terrible storms raining upon us in NSW, I couldn't spray any more coats of lacquer on my second project. Rather than waiting around doing nothing, I decided to start on my third project, wait for the rain to die down, then continue with the lacquer.

This is a rather ambitious build for me, but I've been thinking of how to build a neck through bass for months now - ever since I started my first project this idea has been popping up in my head non-stop! So I had to do it, with the limited tools that I have. 

For starters, I think the ideal way to build a multi-laminate neck through guitar would be to glue all the blanks together, profile them square and cut out the shape. However, since I don't have a bandsaw, planer or jointer, I have to make do with a lot of hand tools and simple power tools. Time to get creative!

For the bass, I plan to do 6 strings (5 strings was the original plan but why not have an extra string to play with? ), with a narrower string spacing at 16mm at the bridge and a 52mm nut. I plan to taper the neck all the way to the body, ala Wynn bass style without the tapered laminates. I also grew to like single cut basses. 

Seeing that they weren't any plans for 6 string single cut basses, I had to design my own. 34" scale, 24 frets, with a tapered neck to body.

Enough of the rambling and here are some pictures!

I later found out that the fretboard blank was too narrow, so I'll be using some rosewood binding to extend the edges plus that will help hide the fret tangs!

With my plans in hand, I traced the dimensions onto some MDF to make the headstock side profile template.

 

[SIMpleONe89]

Then I made the headstock side profile template.

I managed to get the top of the headstock flat by sanding. To get the bottom part flat, I routed using a straight piece of MDF as a template.

 

[SIMpleONe89]

With the headstock template completed, I traced the outline and the dimensions of the neck and body onto my maple blank.

Then cut it out to shape.

To make the neck straight, going from 15mm at the first fret to 19mm at the 12th fret, I used a long straight piece of MDF as a template and routed. 


And also cleaned up the headstock. You may notice I left a huge hump there. That will be the volute and I left plenty of meat so I can get creative and carve up something nice. 

 

[SIMpleONe89]

Then I transferred the outline onto the mahogany blanks. Since the maple was thin, it started to warp a little but nothing too serious. 

Then I cut out the shape with a hand saw and a jig saw.

Music helps keep me sane when cutting by hand.

The jigsaw struggles a bit with such thick wood, that's why I like to stay clear of the line, using relief holes and cuts, and let it rest after cutting for prolonged periods.

[SIMpleONe89]

With the neck laminates all roughed out, I then proceeded to cut out the QLD walnut veneer.

Test fitting all the laminates together:

And this is how they all look like:

Hopefully the rain will clear soon!

[ScottR]

I love seeing the ambition and determination on display in a build that utilizes so many hand tools. 

I always feel like using all the hand tolls makes a build more personal, the builder has a lot more personal time invested.

SR

[SIMpleONe89]

Thanks Scott! Hand tools also help me believe I don't have to go to the gym.

[SIMpleONe89]

Got everything glued up!

I actually glued the pieces in little steps because I didn't dare risk something going out of alignment with 5 pieces sliding around due to the glue.

I had a great glue joint and it should look good after cleaning it up.

[a2k]

Cool! Ambitious! I like it!

Tapering the neck width all the way through the body solves the problem of having to carefully clean up and level that portion of neck-through body next to the fingerboard that is at the wrong level. I think it also adds to the visual effect of having the strings and neck fan out together. Personally, having the neck/body join be at 90 degrees to the pickups but having the strings hit at a fanned angle is one of those little things that bothers me and screams "machine" instead of "hand-made". So, good choice. 

Plus the adventures with hand-tools is interesting to follow. I currently have access to a pretty nice shop, but that's going to end in 2017 and I'll be left with nothing except a few router bits and a set of cabinet scrapers to my name. I don't think I can hand-turn router bits, so I'll be making basses with just the cabinet scrapers. (I kid, but it is good to pick up a few tricks that don't require large fancy machines).

 

Edited June 8, 2016 by a2k
typo

[SIMpleONe89]

The headstock is quite challenging to get it flat all around. At the moment the bass side is 2mm thicker and I'll have to work on that. 

[Prostheta]

Sensible choices there. Commendable.

[SIMpleONe89]

Thanks Carl.

Sorry haven't been posting but I've done quite a fair bit of work.

After the glue dried, I had to clean up the laminates. For the headstock, I used my Shinto rasp to level the mahogany pieces, using the maple piece as the guide, since I had already shaped it to the correct size. I also used my orbital sander and a chisel to get the laminates flat.

I could've built a jig to route it flat but I didn't have enough material. 

 

[SIMpleONe89]

Then I sanded the top edge to remove the glue and to make all laminates flat.

I really wished I had a drum sander, planer and a jointer to make life much easier! 

But with the rock classics playing on Spotify, sanding wasn't so painful and I eventually got to this:

From this:

[SIMpleONe89]

Now it was time to work on the fretboard. I printed out a template for a 34" scale bass and cut the slots with my Hosco pull saw.

I had to make sure the slots were deeper to compensate for the radius later on because I was going to bind the fretboard. Because my plans call for a 79mm thickness at the 24th fret, and my fretboard was 75mm wide, I had to use some rosewood binding, 2mm each, to bring it to the correct width. 

The rosewood binding would also help to hide the ugly fret tangs. 

But before I could glue the binding on, I had to cut out the fretboard taper, taking into account the measurements without binding - 48mm at the nut and 75mm at the 24th fret.

Then I cut out the fretboard with my jigsaw.

And tried to sand and plane the excess to the exact width.

This took too long and I was already tired from all the fret slotting and sanding. So I used a straight edge and routed it with a flush trim bit.

Edited June 13, 2016 by SIMpleONe89

[SIMpleONe89]

Then I glued on the rosewood binding. I made a stupid mistake of trying to glue both at once. I saw a guy on youtube gluing the binding by driving the fretboard and binding into a wedge. I think I may have over done and one side of the binding wasn't flush with the bottom of the fretboard.

In hindsight I should have done one first with super glue and binding tape. This is what happens when you try to rush things, let alone rushing something I've not done before!

Anyway it turned out fine because it was only 1mm off the fretboard base. I then sanded it flat without sacrificing much. The fretboard blank was 8mm to start with and I took it down to 7mm. 

After that, I proceeded to cut out the nut shelf.

Cleaned it up with a chisel and some files.

And now the nut sits perfectly. 

[psikoT]

Quote

I really wished I had a drum sander, planer and a jointer to make life much easier! 

Then we don't enjoy so much watching you suffering...

I like your builds with all the explanations, keep it up please!

[ScottR]

You ended up with some very nice laminations in your neck. You've got some skills with your hand tools.

SR

[SIMpleONe89]

Thanks guys. All those big, expensive machines would surely make my life easier. Less suffering, but hey, who needs the gym?

Ok now I'll show you how I did the neck taper without any big machines! It's not that hard really!

First, I had to mark out the measurements - 52mm at the nut, 79mm at the 24th fret.

Then I drew a straight line connecting both dots, all the way to the end of the blank.

Then I cut out the taper, staying at least 1mm away from the line. It's funny how when I first started cutting out things with the jigsaw I cut at least 4-5mm from the line, but as I got more confident the distance shrank.

But of course I had to leave more room for error with the hand saw. My jigsaw isn't that great so I had to use the hand saw on the thicker parts. It heats up fast and the blade bends. 

By the time I was done my arms were so sore. 

Edited June 14, 2016 by SIMpleONe89

[SIMpleONe89]

Then I stuck a long straight edge and routed it to size.

And sanded it all flat.

There you go! Just 3 hours of hard work without a bandsaw and a jointer!

[Prostheta]

That's how you do it! 

[SIMpleONe89]

Ok so I've been working on the neck for the past few days.

Did the truss rod channel.

And the carbon fibre rods. These will help with the stability of the 6 string bass neck.

And I also glued on the headstock veneer, which is made of Wenge and Jarrah. I'll also add a blackwood veneer to the bottom once the neck is shaped. 

After the headstock veneer was glued on, I routed the truss rod access channel. I'll probably go with a flamed maple truss rod cover from the scrap I have lying around (literally lying around). 

Then I glued on the fretboard. To prevent it from slipping, I tried a new method of using toothpicks as locating pins. So I clamped the fretboard into position, drilled a 2mm hole in the fret slots at both ends of the fretboard through into the neck, and stuck a toothpick in. The frets will cover up the hole anyway.

Also, this time I didn't forget to remove the masking tape!

[Andyjr1515]

This is looking great!  Great progress and multiple skills on show.

[Prostheta]

Yep! I'd advise using a flat piece of scrap over the headstock when veneering to distribute pressure better though. That might be a little gappy or the glueline might show. I think the veneer is a bit thicker than what I would call veneer (<2mm) or maybe it could be called "constructional veneer", or better "headplate". Doesn't matter. I tend to think "thin" when veneer is mentioned....still, a caul is always a good idea!

[SIMpleONe89]

1 hour ago, Prostheta said:

Yep! I'd advise using a flat piece of scrap over the headstock when veneering to distribute pressure better though. That might be a little gappy or the glueline might show. I think the veneer is a bit thicker than what I would call veneer (<2mm) or maybe it could be called "constructional veneer", or better "headplate". Doesn't matter. I tend to think "thin" when veneer is mentioned....still, a caul is always a good idea!

Oops! Should've used a caul. For now I've not seen any gaps but I'll definitely use a caul for the back of the headstock. 

[Prostheta]

It's not important from a mechanical point of view since the plate is stiff enough on its own. More about a potential glueline or the pads crushing the surface than anything else.