SIMpleONe89 Posted June 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 Thanks Andy! @Prostheta Fortunately nothing funky happened when I unclamped the headstock. But I'll definitely remember to use a caul next time! So I unclamped the neck and was pleased to see no gaps. Then it was time to radius the fretboard. I hate this part because it takes time and it's super dusty. So to help with the sanding I used a hand plane to create a radius but I didn't take too much wood because it's only 14" radius. This is the beautiful indian rosewood fretboard sanded up to 1200 grit. Then I also installed the side dot markers. I decided not to do any inlays and let the beauty of the rosewood speak for itself. Also I'm sick of inlaying. It's not fun trying to handle small pieces of abalone with a jeweller's saw and with my terrible eyesight! Then I rough cut out the headstock. I'll refine the shape later on once I order the tuners so I can position them properly. Here's the neck so far... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 Then I installed the frets. I think I got better at fretting because I took a lesser time to finish everything. I also rounded the fretboard edges so it was quite tricky to get the frets to seat nicely at the edges and blend into the fretboard. I'll continue to work on beveling and rounding the fret ends later. Might have to fill the gaps with some rosewood dust. But looking good without fret tangs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 Sweet. Good news is always welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 I finished shaping the neck and I'll upload a time lapse showing how I did it with nothing but files, a chisel and sandpaper. The result: I'll glue a piece of blackwood on the back of the headstock after I'm done with the body wings. As for now I'm not a 100% done with the volute. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 I'd do some play testing on that profile. It looks awfully square! That would cramp my hands right up. Was this the intended profile? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 54 minutes ago, Prostheta said: I'd do some play testing on that profile. It looks awfully square! That would cramp my hands right up. Was this the intended profile? It could be the angle from which the pics are taken but I prefer a flat profile because I like to play with my thumb flat against the neck. I did this for my previous two guitar builds but then again I'm a guitarist not a bassist! I'll try it out with the strings later on and see how it plays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Here's a time lapse of me carving the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Sure! It's not a profile I could work with myself, however its pretty obvious that no one profile is ever right for all. It's entirely why I don't like fat Fender necks. Too tiring to grasp rather than more of a floating grip. Not that I am the best example of "what to do" in any way shape or form! haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 6 minutes ago, Prostheta said: Sure! It's not a profile I could work with myself, however its pretty obvious that no one profile is ever right for all. It's entirely why I don't like fat Fender necks. Too tiring to grasp rather than more of a floating grip. Not that I am the best example of "what to do" in any way shape or form! haha What style do you like? I realised most people like C shapes and like to hook the thumb over the neck. I myself have smaller hands and I like to play with the thumb right in the middle of the neck. It was how I was taught. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 I guess that I'd call the profile on the 5-ers I build a "flat C". At least, not weighty. I have problems with grip strength (barre chords on acoustic guitar wears me out within one or two songs) so that might have something to do with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 1 hour ago, SIMpleONe89 said: What style do you like? I realised most people like C shapes and like to hook the thumb over the neck. I myself have smaller hands and I like to play with the thumb right in the middle of the neck. It was how I was taught. If you play with the thumb in the middle, maybe you should try asymmetric profile... or D shape, which is my favourite. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 2 hours ago, psikoT said: If you play with the thumb in the middle, maybe you should try asymmetric profile... or D shape, which is my favourite. I think mine is a little like the D but I'll try and round the edges a bit more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 According to that diagram, my necks would be more like a slightly-shallow D. I've never been sure whether a "D" implies taller sides though. A "C" would seem to imply a gradual curve around the entire profile. Still. That profile is like a hard U. It'll sound solid and move little, but be a pig to work around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 For what it's worth, I always head towards the 'soft V'. I find it has the depth when I'm doing bar chords, but there are no bulbous sides to get in the way when I'm trying to get around the fretboard fast. It's each to their own, of course.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 2 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: For what it's worth, I always head towards the 'soft V'. I find it has the depth when I'm doing bar chords, but there are no bulbous sides to get in the way when I'm trying to get around the fretboard fast. It's each to their own, of course.... That would be me as well, but shallower than depicted here. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 (edited) Hey guys I was thinking of a way to do the control cavity plate. Now I'll be using a Tasmanian Blackwood 9mm for the back. Currently I've glued the sandwich consisting of a Wenge top (9mm), Jarrah veneer, Vic Ash middle (21mm), and will fit the blackwood on the bottom, bringing the total to about 40mm, which I intended for. I was thinking of cutting out a section off the Blackwood back, then stick it back on with double-sided tape and route the body shape and round overs. This matching piece of Blackwood would be the control cavity plate which would blend in nicely with the rest of the back. Then I can probably attach some magnets and make it easy to remove to access the battery and the electronics. This guy did it here: And I think Pedulla basses do this for their control plates as well. Do you think this is a feasible way to do it? Will the control plate warp in future? I had the piece drying for about a month now and it's quite flat. Edited June 22, 2016 by SIMpleONe89 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a2k Posted June 23, 2016 Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 I think that's a feasible approach. I used a scroll saw to cut out the control cavity before gluing the backplate on and it was a pain in the rear, but I haven't had any warping issues. I think your plan is better because it resolve the issue of getting a precise fit with a wonky scroll saw. The one concern I'd have is the thickness of the double-sided tape may mess up roundovers because the piece will sit flush once the tape is removed. But that can be cleaned up by hand. I'm enjoying following along with this build, by the way. It was interesting watching your carving video. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 Thanks! Good to hear there aren't any warping issues. Yes the only worry is the thickness of the double sided tape but I guess that's a small issue that can be sanded out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 23, 2016 Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 If the wood has lost the right amount of moisture (7-10% EMC) and it doesn't have excessive curvature within the growth rings then it shouldn't. Wood will continue to move in response to environmental humidity of course, so if it rains and humidity goes waaaay up, you might find it cups slightly heartwards. A lot of people laminate thinner things like pickguards, etc. I've been considering whether to inlay a thin metal sheet into the back of something like this. Kind of like a thin internal recess to disrupt the growth rings, provide grab for mags and shield at the same time. It should be fine as it is. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 15 minutes ago, Prostheta said: If the wood has lost the right amount of moisture (7-10% EMC) and it doesn't have excessive curvature within the growth rings then it shouldn't. Wood will continue to move in response to environmental humidity of course, so if it rains and humidity goes waaaay up, you might find it cups slightly heartwards. A lot of people laminate thinner things like pickguards, etc. I've been considering whether to inlay a thin metal sheet into the back of something like this. Kind of like a thin internal recess to disrupt the growth rings, provide grab for mags and shield at the same time. It should be fine as it is. Great! Maybe I'll look for a metal sheet and laminate it! That or maybe some plastic pickguard. Thanks for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 Cut out the body wings. Couldn't resist a mockup. I'll show the process of how I managed to get clean edges without having to create an additional set of templates soon. I can't get perfectly straight edges because my jigsaw struggles on thick pieces and the blade bends outwards and the bottom always ends up thicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 23, 2016 Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 2 hours ago, SIMpleONe89 said: Great! Maybe I'll look for a metal sheet and laminate it! That or maybe some plastic pickguard. Thanks for that. I don't think that's it's necessary if the wood isn't moving. Simply, it's just an idea that some people use plus it has other benefits that an electronics cavity can leverage, such as screening, etc. Don't jump at the idea if there is any likelihood of it diverting the rest of the project! The mockup looks great. Nice to see that you've got extraction, if little else in the way of tools. It's always a better early purchase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 Thanks Carl. I just ordered an Aluminium sheet. I'd love to try laminating the cover and I don't want to risk the cover warping in future! I think it would look cool too and will help with shielding. I think I have all the tools I need for now. I have 4 long clamps (2 F clamps and 2 quick clamps) and do you reckon that's enough to glue the wings on? I'll definitely glue them separately and use off cuts as clamping cauls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 23, 2016 Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 Al isn't magnetic, so you'll need to figure out something else for attachment if that's what you were considering. Then again, neither is copper. Hmm. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 Yup I'll still be mounting the magnets anyway. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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