Prostheta Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 PG = ProjectGuitar.com It was a bit stupid of me. Normally I write it out in full since that is the official name of the site both as a domain and branding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a2k Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 fwiw u b getting all l33t on us newbs. What's an Internet forum without a bunch of strange acronyms. Let's make some more up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 I can handle FWIW. I have a few favourites such as YMMV, AFAIR/AFAIK, etc. however I draw the line at l33t speak. I spent a lot of time in BBS/Usenet land many years back, however I've always valued a standard of language appropriate to a situation....I simply found that most of it appealed to cliqueishness and/or the lowest common denominator in conversation. There's a definite difference between shorthand and that., FWIW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a2k Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 The one that always gets me is "TIA" or even worse, "thks". IMHO, if you are going to thank someone at least take the extra second and type out the letters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted July 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Haha Project Guitar makes more sense! Today I managed to fit the bridge and tuners, because I wanted to test the action. From this test fit, the action is too high and is quite unplayable. The saddles are the lowest. So this means my fretboard isn't high enough off the body. I don't have a neck angle on this, so I'll have to modify either the body or the bridge. Which do you guys think is the best? 1. Further remove 2mm off the entire body - probably the hardest to do. I'll have to build a huge router sled to accommodate the entire body. 2. Recess the bridge by 2mm - this is possible but this means I won't be able to swap out the bridge in future. I purchased a Korean bridge exactly the same as this http://www.realparts.com.au/bridges-tailpieces/bass/quick-release-6-string-bass-bridge-chrome.html 3. Grind 2mm off the bridge saddles themselves - the bridge is gold-plated but it's a cheap bridge. I have a dremel I can use to grind it down but I'm not sure whether that's a good idea. A metal file may work but I bet it's tiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a2k Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 You are sure the fretboard is too low and it's a bow in the neck? Just making sure... Likewise, is the nut depth pretty close? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Agreed on that point. I usually throw a capo onto one of the first few frets (eliminate the nut for the moment) and check upper fret action. It could simply be that the bridge needs recessing if this isn't caused by neck bow. Zero angle necks are a PITA sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted July 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Yes I eliminated the nut but the action was still slightly high. Would grinding the saddles be a good option? It seems like the easiest solution so far. I don't know if I should recess the bridge because that severely limits the options of other bridge upgrades in future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 I would reccess the body, bridge upgrades are not so common. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 I also would go for a recessing for the bridge. Warwick basses do it as a matter of course. The retro work I often end up doing also calls for it on set and through necks - this one recently needed to be massively recessed to the point that you had to de-string it to set the intonation! Had to also recess the stop-tail, too to get anywhere near a decent break angle. Still worked OK, though : 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 If "upgrading" is even a consideration, do it now rather than later. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted July 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Ah ok. Thanks for the help guys. Looks like recessing the bridge is the best option. It's not easy to find gold six string bridges with narrow string spacing. Maybe I'll just stick to this bridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 I'm sure that Hipshot do narrow-spaced A and B style bridges. They're fantastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted July 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 Ok I decided to recess the bridge. There aren't many hipshot dealers here in Australia and to be honest I don't feel like spending much more and I also don't have time to wait for shipment if I ordered it from the US. Anyway so now the action is great. I've also started to sand and prepare for finish. How high should I sand the Wenge up to? I think I want to go for a very natural, open pore finish. Will P600 be enough or too high? I sanded my previous guitars up to 240 and 320 for the end grain but I don't know if sanding higher will make much difference. I also don't want the Wenge to turn super dark after I apply the wipe on poly, so would sanding to a higher grit help keep it light? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 600 is fine. Wengé can take quite a polish though so you can head up into the thousands. 600-800 is great for a clear as long as you've removed all of the scratches from previous grits diligently. Higher sanding won't increase contrast beyond what you have in front of you. Do you have any scrap to test your look under poly? There's nothing I can say that alters how you feel about what you have in front of you. Super-flat polyed Wengé can have an "under glass" look which is spectacular, and not necessarily "dark" as such. This is more of a use of words thing. The natural open-pored look can be very different, especially since the poly will create specular highlighting around the pores. Test away. Personally, I think you'll be fine. It's not like the poly will decrease contrast, just shift it across into a darker look but equal set of contrasts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted July 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 Thanks Carl. I saw one of your post where you said Wenge can be polished up, even with a buffing wheel. That's interesting! I've got some scrap lying around so I'll test. Time for more sanding! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 Not just Wengé! Not sure if I mentioned in that post or not, however the difference in hardness of the earlywood/latewood is significant enough, so that buffing with an abrasive textures Wengé more or less the same as sandblasting Ash. With soft abrasives though, the texture is soft rather than harsh like blown media. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted July 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 Ah but isn't it wise to put finish over wood for longevity sake? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted July 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 Ok I've been spending the last few days sanding and sanding and sanding...Sigh I really, really hate sanding. But it's important to get a great finish! This is after one coat of wipe on poly... There are a few spots where the tear outs were which I couldn't fix well enough. Also some glue spots in the tight corners which I can't be bothered to get rid of. It's been a long two months and I have to finish this project. Other than that, I am very pleased with how this turned out. Definitely the hardest project to date but worth it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted July 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 I also made matching wenge/vic ash knobs and a flamed maple truss rod cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 I feel you on the hating sanding thing. It chowders up your skin unless you wrap your fingers in micropore tape or whatever. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 27, 2016 Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 Very nice hippy sandwich you've built there. Now I'm going to tell you the same thing I hear on many of my builds: The front is beautiful but I like the back better. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 27, 2016 Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 Wasn't that something to do with "nice arse"? Not sure if I got the entire phrasing correct. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted July 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 She does have a beautiful arse! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 16 hours ago, Prostheta said: Wasn't that something to do with "nice arse"? Not sure if I got the entire phrasing correct. Along the lines of "I hate to see you go......but I love watching you leave". SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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