verhoevenc Posted December 13, 2016 Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 So apparently I'm in experiment and learn mode lately as I can't seem to pull myself from trying out new tools and techniques! NOTE: any stabilized wood you see here is for sale. PM me if curious on pricing. There's some information on the web about this process, but in my opinion it left a lot of unknowns out. So I figured I'd let ya'all follow along with my learning. I'll start by saying I stabilized stuff normally first. I followed the cactus juice website instructions to a T with one caveat: when kearningto just stabilize with clear juice I tried both oven-dried and "normal everyday woodworker dry" wood. Yes, drying in the oven helped. I will do this all the time moving forward. But the goal wasn't really to stabilize wood, it was to do the multi-color dye process! I bought a HUGE vacuum chamber large enough to do guitar tops, so that's the ultimate goal. Let's start with the visual and talk from there: From top to bottom we have: - Mildly curly Oregon myrtle (oven dried) - two curly maple blanks from the same piece (oven dried) - curly ash (normal dry) - burled holly (normal dry) - four pieces of buckeye burl thins from the same burl (oven dried) All pieces (unless otherwise stated) went through a 30 minute vacuum pull in red cactus juice, then sat in it without vacuum for an hour. Once I did the by the book resin curing and sanding they went back in for a 1.5 hour vacuum pull in green juice and then sat in it without vacuum for about a day cause I got tired and went to bed and then work. You'll notice, especially with the buckeye burl, a lot of variety. I'll start there. The two pieces on the left were totally submerged in the cactus juice for both colors. The piece on the top right had its round half dunked in the red for the non-vacuum soak only. The bottom right had its round half in the red soak for the whole process. As you can see, just soaking without vacuum didn't really add much red at all. I have to say the most visually stunning pieces were fully submerged for both colors. No question. As for the pen blanks we'all start at the top: The myrtle took on almost NO red?! Maybe cause it wasn't dried until after the red-resin curing process? Doesn't explain the holly... but it really took on no red and any red it did take on was only surface deep like standard dying. The maples turned out nicely. The top one only had on end stick in the red process hence only red on one end. It did pull it up slightly higher than the juice level in spots though. Again, I think the fully submerged piece for both colors looks better. The ash, although aesthetically not my favorite, really highlights how disparity in grain density and direction (curl) affects the color retention. Lastly, the burled holly provides some contrast to the "it wasn't oven dried" issues on the myrtle. It took up both colors just fine! And came out pretty stunning. From this first experiment I feel I learned a few nice things: - I validated that, as everyone says, the more figured the wood the more color diversity you will get. - a 30-minute vacuum pull appears to be plenty to set a primary color. - wood density has a HUGE affect of color uptake! Just look at the grain of the ash and also how much faster the soft buckeye burl took on the red than the harder maple/Holly/myrtle! You definitely have to factor this in to get the results you're trying for. More later as I continue to learn. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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