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First build - Hollow Custom 22.


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32 minutes ago, Urumiko said:

Also... a sneak preview if the dying.. (no clearcoat yet)

 

PXL_20211116_182952590.jpg

saw a guitar with similar pink floyd inlay on facebook recently and thought "wonder whatever happened to that one pink floyd inspired prs build from proj gtr"... mystery solved!  

nice dye job, looks great.

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Good to see you again and not having to dumped that project! Actually it was just the other day that I thought about you...

The dye job looks great, you've managed to get it even without any blotches.

Regarding your files, I noticed that you cleaned them constantly with a wire brush. Yet there was some rust and as you may have noticed a rusty file doesn't bite as good as a clean one. Get some white vinegar, the stronger the better and if you can get some acetic acid at your local food store, even better. I'd say +10% acidity is the minimum. Dip your cleaned files there for some hours and then flush them with water and cover with baking powder to neutralize the acid. After that you may want to wipe them with WD40 although for wood files that might cause contamination if you can't get the oil properly wiped off. The rust will come off quite easily and if the vinegar is strong enough the files can even get chemically sharpened!

Regarding sharpening your scrapers, the easiest method is just pulling the edge perpendicularly against a single cut file (or a diamond "stone") laying on the workbench. That's good enough for removing material as cleanly as with a file. That also was how I was taught to do it at school, using burnishers is something I've learned from the Internet decades later.

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18 hours ago, mistermikev said:

saw a guitar with similar pink floyd inlay on facebook recently and thought "wonder whatever happened to that one pink floyd inspired prs build from proj gtr"... mystery solved!  

nice dye job, looks great.

Thanks. Are you in the amateur luthier group? I think ive seen you comment on there before but wasnt sure it was the same person? A D Finlayson is on there too.

17 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

Regarding your files, 

    Interesting. I did wonder if there was a way to reinvigorate files. My workshop is fairly damp and next to the sea so rust is a constant issue.
I've seriously considered having baths of oil to keep tools in.  I don't know if any old acid would do but i have a bottle of hydrochloric somewhere. I would have thought acid would cause rust though?

17 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

Regarding sharpening your scrapers,..
   interesting. all the vids I've ever seen said to use a stone to get it flat, then use a burnisher. No harm in trying this I guess.

 

 

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7 minutes ago, Urumiko said:

Thanks. Are you in the amateur luthier group? I think ive seen you comment on there before but wasnt sure it was the same person? A D Finlayson is on there too.

    Interesting. I did wonder if there was a way to reinvigorate files. My workshop is fairly damp and next to the sea so rust is a constant issue.
I've seriously considered having baths of oil to keep tools in.  I don't know if any old acid would do but i have a bottle of hydrochloric somewhere. I would have thought acid would cause rust though?

 

yessir, I'm in there.  sm avatar.  

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4 hours ago, Urumiko said:

I don't know if any old acid would do but i have a bottle of hydrochloric somewhere. I would have thought acid would cause rust though?

There's several sorts of acids, stronger and weaker ones. Regarding causing rust, phosphoric acid for example is commonly used for removing rust without harming the actual metal. That's also commonly available as it's relatively harmless - actually it's also being used to give acidity to some aliments! Same goes for (white) vinegar, there's lots of vinegar rust removing videos although the standard 5% acidity requires quite a long time to work. Hydrochlorid acid will chew iron faster and can cause rust but for sharpening that might work even better. Dilute it into water to some 20% first and remember the order: Add acid into water, not vice versa! And don't forget the baking powder for neutralizing after having flushed the acid with water. You can also mix the baking soda into some water for added flushing. And finally some ultra thin moisture replacing oil like WD40 or CRC 5-56 to get all water out. A spritz after every use might not be bad in seaside conditions. If you fear for staining, wiping the excess with a dry shop towel and then using alcohol for the residues should keep your precious woods clean.

Speaking of vinegar, how come you didn't try ebonizing the laurel fretboard in another video using vinegar and steel wool?

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  • 3 weeks later...

It's not fool proof and most certainly won't make pitch black ebony out of pale maple but compared to dye the result can be much more vivid. A lot of the success depends on the tannin content of the wood - which can be improved by applying tea!

Here's a quick reading article with some photos showing what to expect: https://makerdesignlab.com/experiments/how-to-ebonize-wood/

 

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  • 3 months later...
56 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

Woohoo! Yet another video worth the wait!

One thing is for sure: I definitely won't ever use epoxy for finish!

You are too kind sir. I'm sure it's %25 me %25 bad carving/prep %25 the formulation I'm using. And the rest the fact it's epoxy.

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I can agree with the 25% "you" and most likely it'd be the same for "me". There's ways to get a smooth surface with a brush but aside the proper tool it requires the hand of someone else.

Having used the slower epoxy might indeed have helped. I've seen videos where they make those glass smooth shiny tabletops without any sanding needed afterwards. There's one trick that neither of us would have the patience to do: They pour it on the centre and let the excess drip down on the sides! After it's dry the blobs can relatively easily be cut level with the edge, then do the same on the other face. I can see a couple of caveats in that method for a carved guitar: First, you can't do that with a Les Paul type guitar with the marble run as it would be filled up. Second, getting the viscosity just right for a uniform layer even on the highest spot but still fluid enough to self level can be somewhat challenging. That should be doable, though.

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  • 1 month later...

Woo hoo! Slowly but surely this thing is coming together!

Loved how you just drew the pulse on the headstock! Why make it too complicated, under the epoxy the silver pen looks the same as the inlay. - That reminds me of a fellow builder who didn't care much about finishing. So he just used a broad golden paint pen to draw a binding on a glossy rattle can black. Looks good enough on stage!

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