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Blonde Marauder


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perhaps just another illusion but the line on your fret saw looks a hair deep, then again better deep than shallow.  I always dread the part when I finish the slots cause I know the next part... well I'll be holding my breath for a while.  have a few under my belt... but still feels like pounding in frets... dressing... leveling = flirting with disaster!

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On 9/24/2021 at 12:45 PM, Prostheta said:

There's always something that wants to sit in the path of the blade! 

Oh yes, and my workmate bench loves to crawl under the wood I am cutting with a jigsaw into that path!

On 9/28/2021 at 1:40 AM, ScottR said:

Goodness. While I've been off traveling a bit, you've been working. Looks good too!

SR

Hope you had a lovely holiday, I have made a bit of progress, heading towards my favourite process, carving the neck.

On 9/28/2021 at 1:50 AM, mistermikev said:

perhaps just another illusion but the line on your fret saw looks a hair deep, then again better deep than shallow.  I always dread the part when I finish the slots cause I know the next part... well I'll be holding my breath for a while.  have a few under my belt... but still feels like pounding in frets... dressing... leveling = flirting with disaster!

I use the bottom of the line as the signal to stop, it is 3 mm deep in at that point, the fret tangs are 2.3 mm, should be all OK, it'll soon be time to pound some frets!

 

I started drilling the MOP dot holes with a 6 mm brad point then before getting too deep I swapped over to a bit where the spike has been filed down.

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Put some epoxy in the holes and popped the dots in.

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On 9/30/2021 at 10:23 PM, Bizman62 said:

Oh the filed down spike! Such a small thing making a big difference!

 

On 10/1/2021 at 12:00 AM, Prostheta said:

Yep, good call!

 

On 10/1/2021 at 12:37 AM, ScottR said:

Yeah, brilliant!

SR

Cheers Bizman, Prostheta and Scott, No one wants to stab their truss rod 10 times with a sharp spike so you have to look for ways to avoid that scenario.

So today I brought the MOP dots in line with the rosewood, most of the bulk taken off with this little file.

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I ground the dots down until the file started to rub on the masking tape, then I switched to a sharp chisel and a razor with sticky tape on the ends.

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The covered ends of the blade follow the contours of the radius and scrape the dot into the same shape

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Also great for levelling repairs to dings in finish, I wore my mask because sanded new epoxy can do horrible things to the epithelium, the cells that line the air sacs and exchange gases, in your lungs.

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Those dowels have sandpaper superglued onto the end, 120, 400 and 1,000 to finally polish up the dots.

 

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Try turning a hook on the blade by running it across something like a screwdriver handle. They work well like that anyway (it's one of my favourite tricks using tape to make a depth stop) but with a hook they really cut quickly. The downside is that pearl is pretty abrasive on blades. I tend to use double cut machinists files sans handle for most levelling work on markers as they don't scuff up the wood too much if you're off target. Once they're level, the whole file can be run along the section length to test for high spots. Any scuffs come out with final sanding.

Very diligent work!

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7 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

Try turning a hook on the blade by running it across something like a screwdriver handle.

That's one way to sharpen a scraper as well, honing one side of the steel to a knife edge and turning a burr to it.

9 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

I tend to use double cut machinists files sans handle for most levelling work on markers as they don't scuff up the wood too much if you're off target. Once they're level, the whole file can be run along the section length to test for high spots.

I've used a sanding beam in a similar manner. It also allows for going through various grits.

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On 10/1/2021 at 10:39 PM, Prostheta said:

Try turning a hook on the blade by running it across something like a screwdriver handle. They work well like that anyway (it's one of my favourite tricks using tape to make a depth stop) but with a hook they really cut quickly. The downside is that pearl is pretty abrasive on blades. I tend to use double cut machinists files sans handle for most levelling work on markers as they don't scuff up the wood too much if you're off target. Once they're level, the whole file can be run along the section length to test for high spots. Any scuffs come out with final sanding.

Very diligent work!

 

On 10/1/2021 at 10:49 PM, Bizman62 said:

That's one way to sharpen a scraper as well, honing one side of the steel to a knife edge and turning a burr to it.

I've used a sanding beam in a similar manner. It also allows for going through various grits.

Cheers Prostheta and Bizman, some fantastic tips and tricks being contributed., a good page describing the safety razor technique here https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/tips-tricks-issue-93-a-safety-razor-scraper

Checked the height of the new neck compared to the old one.

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That's close enough.

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That reminds me, I have to put some side dots in, I will check the parts box to see if I have a side dots stick, if not I will have to order one,. Marked out for tapering, OMG that wood has got dirty sitting up in the racks for a few years 

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Tapering down, 18 mm of maple to 16 mm in the straight section with a rasp (not in shot), that will end up 17 mm to 15 mm after shaping and sanding.

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The maple looks much nicer after the dirt is scraped off

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I made a bridge over the drop sheet

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and started shaving the neck down with the crab

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checking the symmetry periodically with a contour gauge, this was at an early stage.

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Tidying up every now and then with a raspIMG_7372.thumb.JPG.973f8ccef0a0c80ead422c02546281d2.JPG

 

The wood looks very brutalized at this point, the profiles at either end will need carved after I make carve guides for them, here is where it is today.

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These shavings and sawdust are going into the garden.

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11 minutes ago, ScottR said:

I usually save those and use them for fire starters in the old smoker.

I take my shavings from the class with me as Saturday is also the Sauna day and use them for starting the fire in the sauna stove. Sometimes a fellow builder has done quite a pile and asks me if I want their shavings. For garden use I get plenty enough from cutting my firewood logs into choppable pieces. The coarse sawdust keeps the compost bin in the kitchen nice and dry similarly to the sawdust on the floors in Wild West Saloons... And I've got several sacks full of that for the whole winter!

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16 hours ago, ScottR said:

I usually save those and use them for fire starters in the old smoker.

SR

I think we both like cooking outside Scott, one of my friends recently got an outdoor pizza oven, an awesome addition to their garden. We are just coming into summer here, I got this  charcoal barbeque a while back and its been sitting on the shelves, I must try it out soon rather than just use the gas barbeque.

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16 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Easier than rubbing two hamsters together!

You can start fires by rubbing your "hamsters" together, now that is a party trick!

16 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

I take my shavings from the class with me as Saturday is also the Sauna day and use them for starting the fire in the sauna stove. Sometimes a fellow builder has done quite a pile and asks me if I want their shavings. For garden use I get plenty enough from cutting my firewood logs into choppable pieces. The coarse sawdust keeps the compost bin in the kitchen nice and dry similarly to the sawdust on the floors in Wild West Saloons... And I've got several sacks full of that for the whole winter!

Saunas and spas are so relaxing, you are lucky to have a sauna at your house.

All this chat reminded me of this meme 😁

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I made a carving guide and clamped it on the heel, and filed around it

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Then removed the mdf guide.

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I'll need to make one for the base of the headstock next 😀

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21 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

A carving guide for the heel!!! Why haven't I ever thought about that? Much less in the way than the guitar body, much less risk for ruining the body! :facepalm:

 

18 hours ago, ScottR said:

Clever! You come up with some of the most clever work aids. And every time, I'm like Doh! Why didn't I ever think of that?

SR

The guide is working pretty much the same as a router template, and analogous to that system I made up a sanding tool that will not degrade the template to do the edge. Just a bit of mdf with some sandpaper superglued on, trimmed and sanded flush with the edges that follow the template.

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I started on the headstock

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