Prostheta Posted May 13, 2022 Report Share Posted May 13, 2022 Grain filler is a pain to remove. Be mindful that if you do start removing it, it may not remove evenly depending on local penetration into the pore structure. It's difficult to know what is the right thing to do in this circumstance until you are knee deep unfortunately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu. Posted May 13, 2022 Report Share Posted May 13, 2022 On 5/4/2022 at 1:09 AM, ADFinlayson said: First job was neck carving - I don't think I've talked much about carving lately but my method has changed a bit over the last 4 or 5 builds. I've gone back to using a shinto rasp and shaping a profile around the 1st fret and 15th, then I use a carving knife to shape the heel and volute transitions I spotted this in a video from the ESP Japan custom shop recently! It looks like a great way to finesse the transitions. It looks like a lot of people took advantage of that Axminster vice offer at £99! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted May 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2022 On 5/13/2022 at 8:56 PM, Stu. said: I spotted this in a video from the ESP Japan custom shop recently! It looks like a great way to finesse the transitions. It looks like a lot of people took advantage of that Axminster vice offer at £99! out of stock already? I guess the probably don't have loads of units of things like vices in stock - Pattern vice seams fairly specialist. On 5/13/2022 at 3:24 PM, Prostheta said: Grain filler is a pain to remove. Be mindful that if you do start removing it, it may not remove evenly depending on local penetration into the pore structure. It's difficult to know what is the right thing to do in this circumstance until you are knee deep unfortunately. Yes I thought that would be the case, it was indeed a bar steward to get out and I gave up getting it out of some spots. The issue seemed to be that my sealer flash coat didn't seal quite well enough and I got some staining, so I got all that out with 120 on the random orbital. You can just about make out here how green the binding went. You can see some areas around the edge where the grainfiller didn't want to come out. These pours are much bigger that the central area so the filler obviously work deeper in. Then this area was an absolute PITA to get looking clean again. So lots of patience, then I had to scrape the scratches off the binding with a razor again. Then is morning I gave it another 50/50 flash coat, really just to highlight if I had an areas that were going to look clean with finish (very little effort to sand out patches of a flash coat) and it looked pretty good so It's now had 2 full-fat coats of clear. Then when that clear has had 24 hours, I'll try the dark grain filler again - I think I'm stuck with the dark filler as there are patches that aren't going anywhere. But with the extra lacquer coats it shouldn't stain the wood again. This is after the first coat. I think I'm going to stick with natural and bin off the yellow until I've got appropriate dyes for it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted May 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2022 So after 2 full-fat coats of clear lacquer and left to cure over night. I've redone the grainfill and got a much more consistent looking fill that hasn't stained the wood. There is a tiny bit of grey in some areas where the wood has some weird grey patches and a little bit around the edge which might be some excess. So once this has had a good 24 hours, I'll give it a wipe down with some white spirit. I do quite like it natural but I'm tempted to at least try one more go at amber. and I got these Chestnut dyes to try which a friend of mine recommend for tinting cellulose. Will definitely do a tester on one of the offcuts first though - annoyed at myself for not doing a tester in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 16, 2022 Report Share Posted May 16, 2022 Yes, definitely. Spirit dyes can be anything from fairly dilute to ridiculously potent. I know of Chestnut, but never used them. Looking forward to seeing how the tests go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted May 17, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2022 21 hours ago, Prostheta said: Yes, definitely. Spirit dyes can be anything from fairly dilute to ridiculously potent. I know of Chestnut, but never used them. Looking forward to seeing how the tests go. Yes that angelus yellow is practically luminous when added to lacquer, reminded me of Mr Chin's kitchen in Only Fools and Horses. I should have just added a couple of drops and tested. I got the previous one wired up last night. In spite of the colour issues, I'm very happy with it and I'll be turning it up to 11 at lunch time. I need to fettle down the back covers before I can take more photos but specs are: - 1 piece chambered african mahogany body - Eastern maple top, natural binding - 1 piece african mahogany neck - Indian Rosewood fretboard + headstock veneer, white mop inlays and side dots - med jumbo nickel wire, 24 frets, 625mm scale length - Golden age bridge - Kluson top locking vintage style tuners - OX4 Pickups 4 conductor pickups, 8.1k Neck, 9k Bridge - 2x Vol, 2x Tone with pushpull, tuned coil splits, stewmac gold bell hat reflector knobs - Bone nut and light-cream plastics. - Nickel hardware 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crusader Posted May 19, 2022 Report Share Posted May 19, 2022 That is gorgeous!, yes turn it up to 11 for sure! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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