Jump to content

hot rod truss rod


Recommended Posts

If anyone wants to try a hot rod from stew mac, you hafta buy the router bit from them it costs $20 which i think is a rip off so i did a lil search and found that at woodcraft.com they carry a single flute carbide 7/32 dia, 1/4 shank router bit that should work, im gonna be tryin it out within the next month or so ill let everyone kno how it works, o and btw the bit is only $14, if you have a woodcraft store by you it might be worth it save yourself a couple dollars

MzI

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i love it how you guys go out of your way to save $6.00 Thats amazing.

IMO, getting the cutter elsewehere is a false economy. Two flutes are much less grabby and cleaner cutting than single flute blades, and as Marcel stated the Stew Mac bits are top notch.

Besides, $20 is pretty reasonable to start with, god forbid you guys ever need to invest in a binding bit...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

man...6.00 is a #3 at Chick-Fil-A (6 chicknstrips + fry + drink)....or a #5 at What-a-burger (bacon+cheese burger+fry+drink)......or a #3 at PopEyes (3 big chicknstrips + side order [fries, cole slaw, beans, rice, etc] + biscuit + drink)..

sheesh....

no no no, $6 is 15 minutes overtime at work. Driving to a store to save $6 on a router bit takes an hour out of my day, plus fuel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IMO, getting the cutter elsewehere is a false economy. Two flutes are much less grabby and cleaner cutting than single flute blades, and as Marcel stated the Stew Mac bits are top notch.

Besides, $20 is pretty reasonable to start with, god forbid you guys ever need to invest in a binding bit...

Setch, you cant teach them, they wont listen :D

All tools are expensive. At least the ones you should be buying are. They become cheap when they do their job accurately and properly, AND last longer than the $5 you saved initially

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thats right some people dont work like me seeing as im in college right now, i try to save as much as i can, im just tryin to help people out and save a lil

MzI

also im not exactly doin this full time its just for fun im not tryin to make a living building guitars, if i was then i would spend the extra money and buy the better bit but until then ill stick to the cheaper one

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i love it how you guys go out of your way to save $6.00 Thats amazing.

i love how stew mac charges a couple bucks more then everyone else for practically the same tools, and to most people it doesn't matter cause it's only 6$ but say stew mac sells 10 bits, that's 60$ more they made vs that other store..

or say you go to stew mac to get a big order of tools... you get 10 different tools, each roughly 4$ overpriced, you just over paid by 40$ :D that's taking your girlfriend out to dinner for the first time in 3 weeks... that's buying 2 cases of beer to enjoy after you've used you're new tools to work on your guitars, that's buying another tool or accessory you needed!

some of their tools may be better, some of them may just be overpriced to cover they're big operation... does anyone here have every stew mac tool, and every other comparable item that other people sell? no, so to each their own, if you can afford not to worry about 6$, or if you're buying a tool for industrial/continual usage, then duhh.. get the best, if you won't be able to eat lunch tomorow because you overpaid, chances are you're just a hobbiest and don't absolutely need tools that last longer then the project you're making them with, then shop around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Everytime someone tells me you can use "this" or "that" tool supplied by UNOHOO guitar suppliers, I can think of something around the house that can do the same job. 6 bucks here and 5 bucks there certainly adds up in the long run. Its all part of cutting costs and making do with what you have. I'd feel like a sucker otherwise. It gives me a little more satisfaction from knowing I can do the job equally as well with a more versatile tool than shelling out X number of dollars for a specialized tool that I will only be using 3X a year at the most.

You can cut your slot just as well with a 1/4" bit . The only areas that count are where the truss rod blocks sit. Its easy enough to shim them in, once the freboard is glued on, it will not move.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can cut your slot just as well with a 1/4" bit .  The only areas that count are where the truss rod blocks sit.  Its easy enough to shim them in, once the freboard is glued on, it will not move.

Amen, thats what I do and I havent had a problem with it yet. A little silicon helps to keep the brass ends in place, but even that is not necessary. I haven't had any truss rattle or truss movement with rods that weren't shimmed. My router bit cost $7 double flute, carbide tipped, works great. And I only spent 20 minutes getting it. B)

I believe the idea of using a 1/4" bit has come up before on the forum, and has been generally accepted. If you really wanna be a penny pincher, go buy yourselfs a length of steel rod, a tap and die set, and a chisel. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars

Cool, the freud would be great.

As for the $6, for the hobbyist, saving money isnt bad, but should be avoided if quality is at steak. In most instances, time, not quality is. For the professional, time is money. The tools pay for themselves.

My opinion: If you buy the cheap tool to save a couplebucks, most of the time, you only cheat yourself. Been there. Saved $2 not buying a freud bit. 5 bits later (returned to home depot & exchanged due to lost original reciept) I bought the freud. About 10 uses later the Freud is still going. The Vipers at the depot wouldnt even do one job. Make sure it wont compromise quality to buy a cheap tool, BEFORE you buy it. That Freud bit as I said would work fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Incidentally, I followed your recommendation and started off with Freud. ;-)

In my case, since they didn't have 7/32" in stock where I went, I just got 3/16 and I'll go a bit wider in subsequent passes.

Wish this thread had come along last week, though-- although I suspected that a 1/4" bit would be fine with shimming and silicon, I decided to play it safe and go for a smaller rather than larger bit. That'll mean more precision on my part when I do the subsequent passes. I'm not good at precision. <laff>

Greg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe the idea of using a 1/4" bit has come up before on the forum, and has been generally accepted. If you really wanna be a penny pincher, go buy yourselfs a length of steel rod, a tap and die set, and a chisel. :D

Goes along with somebody here who wanted to make their own hammer....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...