A_M Posted July 2, 2004 Report Share Posted July 2, 2004 I finally got the package with wood for my guitar project (my first) last week, and I've been cleaning up the garage and building a simple workbench so I should be able to get started soon. Anyways, while otherwise pleased with the wood I had a big *doh!*-moment when I realized that due to a miscalculation on my part my neck blank is rougly an inch too short for my current headstock design. My neck blank is thick enough to cut the neck+headstock from this single piece (which is what I initially was planning to do) but if I instead opted for a scarf joint for the headstock the neck blank will probably be long enough. I could otherwise easily fix this by making a new headstock design with a different tuner arrangement, which is what I'm probably gonna do - unless you guys think, for stability reasons, using a scarf joint for the headstock is worth the extra work and risk of having the result not looking quite as good? I'm also wondering if any of you guys have had any experience with D-Tuners, particularly the Hipshot Guitar Xtender keys? Anyone know if they can be used for a seven-string guitar? I've been playing a little with the idea of using one for this guitar - which will be a seven-string meant to be tuned a whole step below standard (ADGCFAD low->high). The lever would then drop the low A string to a G. Think that would be a possible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
litchfield Posted July 2, 2004 Report Share Posted July 2, 2004 I am noy a fan of scarf joints Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jehle Posted July 2, 2004 Report Share Posted July 2, 2004 Well, you could save some room on the headstock by a 3x3 configureation instead of an inline 6. There are also 2 ways to cut a scarf joint. One way takes slightly less wood than the other and you get the same length neck out of it. There's a good example of this in the Melvyn Hiscock book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Primal Posted July 2, 2004 Report Share Posted July 2, 2004 I found that doing a scarf joint wasn't all that difficult. Just gotta make sure everything is flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted July 3, 2004 Report Share Posted July 3, 2004 I am noy a fan of scarf joints Why Jeff?? A scarf joint neck is stronger than a neck with no joint, assuming you get the joint nice and tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
litchfield Posted July 3, 2004 Report Share Posted July 3, 2004 Mostly asthetics. I think a volute on a one piece neck is stable as a scarf, and I guess I just grew tired of every imported guitar having scarf joints that it becan to look cheap to me. Mostly I dont like the looks of them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted July 3, 2004 Report Share Posted July 3, 2004 Mostly asthetics. I think a volute on a one piece neck is stable as a scarf, and I guess I just grew tired of every imported guitar having scarf joints that it becan to look cheap to me. Mostly I dont like the looks of them Yeah, i agree to a point, especially for timbers with nice grain. Maples are just begging for scarfs though i think (unless its flame) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
litchfield Posted July 3, 2004 Report Share Posted July 3, 2004 Good to agree. I typically dont use plain maple. An extra 5 minutes at the yard to yeild some flame neck woods is small beans for a hot lookin guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krizalid Posted July 3, 2004 Report Share Posted July 3, 2004 i know there's a thread already on how to do scarf joint but i can't found it. help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted July 3, 2004 Report Share Posted July 3, 2004 i know there's a thread already on how to do scarf joint but i can't found it. help? here here... or here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asm Posted July 3, 2004 Report Share Posted July 3, 2004 The lever would then drop the low A string to a G. Think that would be a possible? i think if you get it to work, your gonna have major problems on a 7 string thats tuned to A, much less G that isnt a baritone. and a 7 baritone is a large guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_M Posted July 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2004 The lever would then drop the low A string to a G. Think that would be a possible? i think if you get it to work, your gonna have major problems on a 7 string thats tuned to A, much less G that isnt a baritone. and a 7 baritone is a large guitar. Oops, it seems I neglected to mention that I'm planning for a 27" scale length. Which according to the online string tension calculator I used would give me approximately the same tensions tuned a whole step down as a 25.5" scale guitar would tuned to standard pitch, using the same guage strings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asm Posted July 3, 2004 Report Share Posted July 3, 2004 cool deal then where did you find that calculator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_M Posted July 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2004 where did you find that calculator? here --> http://www.pacificsites.net/~dog/StringTensionApplet.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alarung Posted July 3, 2004 Report Share Posted July 3, 2004 Hmm... I just checked that caclulator against a brand new set of D'addario XL 10-46's, and the calculated tension comparing to the tension on the D'addario package is fine for the high E and B strings, but after that it's off by quite a bit. The calc says... E .010" PL == 16.21# B, .013" PL == 15.38# G, .017" PB == 14.11# D, .026" PB == 19.81# A,, .036" PB == 21.87# E,, .046" PB == 19.91# My string package says... E .010" PL == 16.2# B, .013" PL == 15.4# G, .017" PB == 16.6# D, .026" PB == 18.4# A,, .036" PB == 19.5# E,, .046" PB == 17.5# All measurements are on a 25.5" scale. Hmm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_M Posted July 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2004 Alarung, could it be that it's right for the high E and B strings and not the rest is that they are plain steel ("PL"), whereas your input for the other strings are "PB", which tells the applet to assume the strings are phosphor bronze wound. Whereas I believe the D'Addario XL's are nickel plated steel? Don't take my word for it though, I'm certainly no expert and that website clearly states "The results of this calculator are not guaranteed to be correct!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alarung Posted July 3, 2004 Report Share Posted July 3, 2004 Oops... Yeah, I plugged in the nickel wound modifier, and it worked. What I get for not reading all the directions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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