Quarter

Yea, I remember reading that and wondering what they were thinking of. I understand that you want to have enough grit to get a slurry going, but wasn't convinced to go coarser than what I finish sand with. Another thing to avoid is using their sealer / filler product. I tested some on a walnut project I'm working on and was less than impressed. I've used their stock and sheen product and like it though. Its a very fine pumice / rottenstone type abrasive in a liquid medium. I've found it best to let the finish cure for 4 - 5 days or more first before using it. Too soon and you will cut too fast and get witness lines. Another Tru Oil tip, (as per Birchwood Casey techs), you can thin it up to 50 / 50 with mineral spirits and shoot it through a gun. It uses / wastes more material and takes a little longer to dry, but is nice for laying down a nice smooth final coats. On my setup, a 2 part oil to 1 part spirits worked ok. They sell the rattle cans too, I picked some up for testing so we'll see how that goes.

To start with, I'll do a good heavy first coat, let dry, then use some 320 / 400 with Tru Oil and work small areas creating a slurry, then wipe / scrape it off cross grain. Once dry, I build coats and level sand with 600 and a little mineral spirits till the last of the little pits are gone.

Definitely check out some used tools, there are some great bargains to be found. I picked up a really nice older model Craftsman 6" jointer for $100 off Craigslist.

I'm going to give their sealer / filler a try on a walnut project I'm finishing up. I've had great luck with just Tru Oil and wet sanding, but I'm anxious to see if their sealer / filler is easier or faster. With any luck, I should be starting the finish in a few days.

They are better than nothing, know its limitations and decide if you can work within those parameters.

Thanks .. the fret markers are .032 sheet aluminum and the bezels for the dots is 9/32 aluminum tubing from the hobby store.

And do not use a jig saw, they wander and can create a big headache

Tru Oil is a great finish. It is not a super hard finish, but does offer more protection than just an oil. This lap steel I built has more coats than I can remember, but came out great. Final coats were let to cure for a couple weeks then rubbed out with Birchwood Caseys Stock and Sheen conditioner, kind of a pumice / rottenstone type grit in a liquid vehicle. Higher res pic here http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g94/quar...close1-1024.jpg .

Nice job!

Sweet hunk of walnut

Here is a StewMac article on doing it with hide glue that may be of some use to you.

Some of your troubles with uneven application on your first kit may have been due to a couple issues. 1) There may have been a light sealer on / in the wood 2) Alder sometimes does not take stains and dyes evenly. Test on scrap first, but the mahogany "should" be easier to get an even color on.

I take it that you are wanting to string it up before the finish coats? Instead of installing the rear ferrels, just use small metal washers that fits loosely.

I think the thickness of a finish has more of an effect on sound than type of finish.

You could correct the side tapers, then add a "binding" to the board to bring it back to size.

Sweet job, love the dbl carve and the Ausi woods

Thats the stuff, I see that seller also has the Sealer and Filler too.

I don't know if its the "best" way, but you can fill using multiple coats of Tru Oil. The filling on this mahogany / maple is Tru Oil http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g94/quar...close1-1024.jpg Birchwood Casey does sell a grain filler to use with their Tru Oil. I ordered some off their web site for a walnut project I'm starting and will put it to the test.

My thoughts too ...

Cool ... looking forward to seeing it when done

Nice Fender Champ 25" is considered a longer scale, the most common vintage scale was 22.5", but there were long scale vintage instruments too.

Most of what I build is 25" scale.

Thanks The lap steel market is not huge, though does seem to be gaining ground. While its certainly possible to "pop" one out, the level of detail will suffer and your competition falls to the cheap import market segment. For profitability, you are still better off building traditional guitars though.

Lap steels are a fun build and a kick to play. Here is one I'm finishing up ... mahogany, maple, Mammoth ivory inlay . . A couple other recently finished .

If you are going to bring in a new circuit, definitely go 220. Unless you have some experience, I'd strongly recommend getting a qualified electrician to help.