MzI
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Everything posted by MzI
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I think the black hardware works good as is. Going with chrome or gold hardware or cream pickups really takes the focus away from the wood itself and with such an over the top piece of walnut like that, that would be that last thing I'd want.
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Guitarnut - Flame Top Stratocaster
MzI replied to guitarnut's topic in In Progress and Finished Work
Go with a clear pickguard if you are going to put one on there, otherwise its a waste of a perfectly good flame top. -
Quilted Birdseye Maple with mineral staining. Not a clue what I am going to do with it. The board is 5' long with some warping and twisting so its sitting for that rainy day project.
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Looks great. Chrome truss rod cover would finish it off nicely. The strap button on the back of the body may be an issue. The one on my Gibson Flying V is located in the same spot and constantly impedes the upper fret access.
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I would remove the strip from the top all together. It takes too much away, visually, from the great spalt you have.
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All things considered, this one took me just under 4 years. Other things come up here and there. Anyways without further delays here are the completed pictures. Another great learning experience. This was my first using binding on the neck as well as first asymmetrical carve on the neck. Both came out halfway decent. This was also my first using Tru Oil for the whole guitar, it will also be my last. It works great on the neck without a doubt, but I am not sold on a body finish with it. As far as tone goes, this is the first time I've used Ash, it is quite bright tone wise which is always a plus in my opinion, and it is fairly heavy, more so then my Mahogany Gibson Flying V.
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Is the fretboard made out of Aluminum?
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Looks great.
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I have a XL 500L in my Gibson V in the bridge position, works well with the warmth of the mahogany body and neck. The stock pickup was far too muddy for my tastes, the high end balanced the sound nicely.
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Tru Oill works well over Sharpie. I did some testing on my current guitar and there is no bleeding of the sharpie after multiple coats.
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When I glued up the headstock I used a piece of 7/8" Maple with a 1/8" Spalted Maple cap on it. So yes basically 1" headstock, then I cut the backside down to 5/8" on the bandsaw. My use of Autocad is more for the planning stages. When I am building I don't have a computer sitting next to me. I do double check measurements against it, but things like carving the neck and volute its more by feel. That is why in the cad drawing the volute does not look correct.
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Third Build - Double (neck) Trouble
MzI replied to toddler68's topic in In Progress and Finished Work
Find a local Timber Frame company, I am sure they can point you in the right direction as their chisels need to stay extremely sharp for the line of work. -
I am pretty sure it was the scarf was too close to the headstock. This one was my first adding an accent strip into the scarf and I didn't fully plan it out in Autocad. The attached image is my drawing I worked off of, don't remember if I have updated it yet or not.
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Well I took the easy way out and just got rid of the volute altogether. Next one I make I'll have to move the scarf joint farther down the neck so it doesn't hit the volute. Now that I am onto the finishing stages, I noticed that when I was selecting the pieces for the neck, I didn't do a very good job of color matching the wood. The two outter pieces of the 3 piece neck are significantly lighter then the middle piece.
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I could do that or the a piece of spalted maple similar to what is on the front of the headstock and control cover. As for other wenge accents, I have pickup rings, input jack, and a truss rod cover.
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The other option is to buy the tube of wire from Stew Mac. Yes more upfront cost, but chances are you won't run out anytime soon.
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Little more progress. Fretboard is glued on and fretted. Neck is carved and glued onto the body. Need to clean up the neck a bit more along with the back of the headstock. Frets need to be leveled still then I can set my bridge placement and drill the holes for strings through. Headstock inlay is done but no pictures yet. I am still not 100% sold on the volute on the back of the neck. The maple wenge maple looks weird and may come off. And yes, the neck is straight, optical illusion as the guitar is leaning back and to the side.
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Teaser picture of what may come in the future. The piece was a full 2 inchs thick when I had it cut. I have 4 or 5 other pieces all 2 inches thick, I should be good for a while with spalted maple.
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Nothing wrong with a couple glasses of beer!
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Digging this one up from the grave. Getting close to the finish point on one of the soloists. Should be done in another week or two. Still have to finish the truss rod channel and the channel for the carbon fiber rods. After that fretwork and carving the neck, and gluing it in. Mock up with parts on the body. Back Headstock Adding binding to the fretboard
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That top is amazing. I am almost wishing you had routed for pickups before you put the top on so you could hide them underneath to have the top showing and not disturb the figure in that area. Simple black tune o matic with strings through and one or two knobs, very minimalistic to not detract from the wood.
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Use another piece of MDF to run the bearing of your router on when making your templates. For curved areas I like to use an oscillating sander. For your control cavity cover, stay away from small angles as you have drawn it in the picture, its hard to get tight angles with a router bit unless you chisel out the points.
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From my experience, solid maple guitar, body and neck, with an EMG 81 in the bridge works pretty good with a Mesa to get the Metallica tone. Just need to roll off the tone knob a bit.
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That guitar was designed by Sambora and his Tech Chris Hofschneider, ESP manufactures it for them.
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3. American Chestnut 5. Teak 7. Not a clue
