Phil Mailloux

This is a picture of a one-way rod my friend.

Don't need a tutorial but could definitely use a couple of pics that show a better view of how the jig is made and used

Bedankt RGGR, ik heb al hout daar gekocht Translation: Thanks RGGR, I already bought wood there

Hey ya'll, Just back from two weeks vacation in the south of France. Everywhere I went in the tourist (trap) sort of shops over there, there was tons of things like bowls, cups, picture frames etc... made out of this wonderfully figured wood. turns out it was olive wood. Since you see olive trees EVERYWHERE down there I decided to get myself a bit of it for experimentation's sake. That was a bit hard to find but i did in the end. I'm now researching olive trees and instruments on the net and the only references I find is that its one of the many woods that can be used in making wooden flutes. One site defines its tone as "open sound". The ONLY guitar related place i've seen it on the net is here See the "Marleaux M Bass 5" link. That's all the info I can find on it. Even Marleaux's website is no help. I'd like to use this wood as a top wood (and maybe back wood) on a multiple-ply bass body consisting of a mahogany core. So, does anyone here ever worked with olive tree wood or know of sites or other instruments that were built with it? Any help is appreciated.

Absolutely Great tips Drak and Dugz!!! This thread is definitely going in my Word files collection on my PC Dugz Are you using titebond for this? From what I understand you let the glue dry about 15 minutes, right? My only experience with titebond was gluing my fingerboard and the glue was drying up faster than I could say the word "glue". By the time I had finished spreading the glue on the neck it had already started getting dry spots. Is this how your glue should be before you apply the veneer?

Make a search on "relicing" there's a couple of threads here on it.

Salut Moreau, My first build is also a 5-string bass. My next build will be a 4-string jazz 5-string jazz sounds pretty cool. Take care when you buy a 5 string bridge. They've got all kinds of string spacings out there. The one I bought is just a tad too small to play pops and snaps like i'm used too, it's going to take some ajusting. I bought a pre-radiused and slotted fingerboard from LMII, they're pretty nice. Have a look at my build site in my signature.

Welcome to the forum Firestorm, Please let me introduce you to the "search" function. It's that button at the top of the screen. Templates have been discussed before over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over.... you catch my drift. To make a long story short you can make miracles with a strat picture, a printer, photoshop and a couple of blank sheets of paper.

I haven't seen anyone make a double action truss rod but I have seen a couple of homemade single action rods if you want some links. Since you mentioned you're a newbie, you don't *really* need a double action rod, sure it's always nice to have but the vast majority of guitars out there have single action rods and work perfectly fine. http://members.fortunecity.com/jtfish/lpc/truss/trusr.htm http://europa.spaceports.com/%7Efishbake/strat/truss.htm

I revisited the link I posted and from the info there there doesn't seem to be much alder actually. Forget my reference to alder. There was *some* basswood used in the pre-EB years but not that much. You can't go wrong with ash, they've been using it since the beginning and it's very obvious from pictures that most transparant or sunbursted stingrays are made of ash.

I believe Stingrays use mostly ash and alder, definitely not mahogany. check this forum on EB MM basses, these guys know it all and a couple of EB employees hang out there, you'll probably find out a lot more. http://p219.ezboard.com/fthedudepitfrm30

I'm also making my own pickups to save on the final cost of my 1rst instrument. I'm making a 5 string musicman type humbucker for bass. It'll cost me less than 20$ to build the whole thing and good ones from seymour duncan and Bartolini are about 100- 180$ I already have alnico 5 rod magnets for the whole thing. It's all in the way you wind your pickups. If the first wind sucks, you can always rewind and reajust your output (Ohm). It's hell of a lot cheaper than buying anything decent, you get to learn something cool and if you've got good magnets, you'll have good pickups. There's plenty of places and tutorials on the net to learn to build pickups.

I'm not sure I understood properly but did you say your neck is made of quilted purpleheart or is that just the body wings? If it is the neck also, I have to warn you that purplheart chips very easily at the corners when you rasp and file it, you have to be very careful when you work around corners. Most importantly, purpleheart is a *bitch* to work with it is very dense, hard wood meaning it will use up your tools faster and it is VERY long to shape things by hand. have a look at my webpage in my signature, I made a 3 piece maple/purpleheart/maple neck, it looks nice but the purpleheart wasn't that nice to work with. I still have file scatches on the purpleheart bits behind the neck and I KNOW i'm going to have to sand this for quite a while (I got no electric sanders!)

As the title says, I want to spray shellac as a sealer and clear with nitro after on a mahogany body. I found shellac powder here, i've got denatured alcohol. 1.What kind of cut do i have to make to be able to spray it properly, 2. how long do i let it dry, 3. Should i make multiple coats or just one Any other tips??

I'm using the same kind of rod you're using Kench and I didn't glue it in besides the silicone at the extremities. It won't move, unless your rout is waayyyy too large. Where did you hear about that??

I wouldn't use any glue at all. Maybe just a bit of silicone at the two extremities to prevent rattling. The should truss rod should be touching the fingerboard since thats what it needs to do to work properly. You can either make a thin fillet with veneer under the rod or cut the channel deeper and glue a fillet on top of the rod.

Nice jig Lex, i'll give it a try. Takes much less space than the big plywood fret benders from the main site

You probably mean this one. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...wtopic=439&st=0

Definitely reckless. A drill doesn't even come CLOSE to the speeds a router goes at. The best way is to buy yourself a cheap ass 50$ (or less)router from home depot or something. The no-name ones manufactured in China will be really cheap and do the job DECENTLY whenever you get more cash, or decide to go pro or something then you can invest in better equipment. My router is a 30 year old B & D I got from a friend for free. You might even want to check out pawn shops if you want.

I'd like to find out if anybody does the final buffing/polishing with a random-orbital sander and the foam polishing attachments. Besides a pedestal buffer, what's the most popular electric buffing technique? Do you guys use a drill with stewmac's finesse polishing foam pad? I'm almost at my buffing stage, I know i don't want to do it by hand and I really don't know if I should go with the drill thing of the R-O sander. Any tips anyone?

Check out the bass gallery on that site. Gorgeous! http://www.fleishmaninstruments.com/

Yes, you have to guess it since your template doesn't show you how to do it. But it's not very difficult, just look at pictures of guitars you're trying to reproduce or better yet, look at a real guitar. Just make lines with a pencil where it starts and ends on the top side and the back and rasp away until you're satisfied with it.

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll just bring the stuff anyway. We'll see once we're there. PageMaster: we're moving to the Brisbane area, but not before our application form gets approved. We sent the papers in March, I hear it takes about 10 months to get the final answer the reason I started this thread is because if you look at the back of europeen electronics it's usually written 230 volts at 50 hertz where UK and Australia ones say 230-240volts at 50 hertz.

Bedankt Shaggy, Op een of en andere manier neem ik wel mijn gereedschap daar maar voordat ik nieuw gereedschap koopt (bovenfrees) wil ik weten als het beter is dat ik het nu koopt of wachten totdat ik in Australie ben. (Does my dutch make sense? )

hey guys, So i'll be moving to Australia next year and bringing along all my tools and stuff. Question is I live in the Netherlands where the mains are 230 volts at 50hertz. Australia has 240 volts at 50 hertz. What I want to know before I invest some more money in more power tools is will my tools work in Australia? I DO know that the plugs are different. Thats not a problem. What I want to know is will the 10 extra volts damage my tools or not. Opinions of anyone who might have made a move like this are VERY welcome. (and of people who actually know something about this also )