MKGBass

wow matt, all your guitar needs is some pup mounting rings, some pup covers, and like, blue.....

SWEEET once again, man. You always do a great job. ps...what did you do with the old neck?

woohoo 100% half-life..... ....oh....i'm the only voter..... woohoo 100% half-life!

? sorry for what?

i'd be interested...but not for a 200% markup.

thanks matt, i'm rather proud of it as well. There was originally a different design, more generic, and then a really tech lookin design, and then my cousin pulled this one out the next day. Needless, i'm plenty happy

I would be so excited if it said "Mid-Western US" guitar show. But sweet. I've never been to want, I want to, bad...bad bad....

I know.....

Well I suppose since everyone else is doing it I might as well post our website. My cousin did the design and major scripting, and I went back in and made all the content pages (well whats done of them). It's got a lot coming as far as content in about a week, otherwise it's 99% done. The only thing is that my coz knows nothing of music, so you'll notice the Basses and Guitars clefs are oddly inverted Enjoy for now...here. Mitch

18 going to college in New Orleans next year (yay!) I'll be on $68,000 worth of scholarships I draw guitars in every class

This method is correct for finding the scale length, but not very helpful in bridge placement. You need to have strings attached (Which requires the bridge to be attached) in order to find the 12th fret harmonic. Since you have side dots, I would suggest you measure the length from the DOT to the nut, and multiply x2. This should give you your scale length. The bridge should then be positioned so that the saddles line up at whatever scale length you determined. ie. The bridge would be 34" from the nut on a 34" scale bass. If you do it this way, your intonation should line up correctly with the corresponding side dots. EDIT: I'm not sure how clear that was. So i'll attempt to clarify. The location of the 12th fret harmonic is based on the placement of the bridge. Because of this, in order to have the 12th fret harmonic BE ON the 12th fret, the bridge must first be placed in its proper position. Since you have the 12th fret position, but not the bridge position, you can measure to the nut from the 12th fret, and use that distance to place your bridge. Either use the same distance (maybe like 17", depending on what you get) and measure from the 12th fret dot. Or double it and measure from the nut. Also, because the bass is fretless, the intonation will have to be slightly adjusted per string. I would suggest you place the bridge so that the saddle on the lowest string corresponds with the scale length you determined based on your side dots. This way the intonation for that string will be correct, you will probably have to move slightly UP the fretboard as you go UP strings to keep the proper intonation.

I just ordered that book....right now! I'm excited. Nearly 300 pages of fun filled photo action. Tasty.

What kind of truss rod are you using?

very nice looking wood. What type of wood? Where's it from? How much it cost ya?

Soon to be: Hollowbody Archtop Gibson style (Country Gentleman, Tennesseen ish) PRS CE22 Copy (Except with Set Neck) Neckthru bass full original. Weezerboy why you wanna do a CE22 hollowbody, just cuz its a b.o.?

Lovely guitar, though I say you're letting someone off with a steal. I'm going to be building a copy of that in about a month.... what are the p/u in it? Which bridge? Stop or vibrato?

I prefer www.tabit.net It's just so simple, I hate hassle.

Now: Ibanez BTB 505 Custom 5 string Dean Razor Standard 4 string Grand Acoustic Bass Fender BXR 200 Amp Head Peavy TVX 410 Bass cabb (700 watts....ahhhhhh) Alesis 3630 Rackmount Compressor/Noise Gate Schecter C-1 Dano Vintage Reissue Convertible (in pearly white) Currently in my possesion: PRS Korea Santana SE Peavey something or other bass Will Have SOON SOON SOON (as possible): Warwick Corvette FNA Jazzman 2004 (hot) Ampeg SVT4-Pro Mesa Boogie 2x12 bass speaker cab Warwick Thumb 4 b.o. (found one NEW for $600) Some sort of Drums, god i need those things Guitar amp, prolly like a Fender Hot Rod Deluxe. I love the clean tone on that thing.

you always get the good ones...no fair. Hurry up and get building and post pics, you jerk.

she's beautiful. Those horns look a little roomier too. What you got planned for the neck?

Looks like its not going to be too hard for ya. Is the body pre-routed for the pickups? LP's are cool, go for it. (But get more opnions from GUITAR players). Looks ok to me though.

Do you plan to do fret lines then? I may be wrong but it seems to me that if you plan to do fanned frets, the dots will be all screwed up as far as intonation goes from bass to treble strings? Also, how are you gonna calculate distances, etc? Is there some nifty tool I don't know about somewhere....

wow guys, haha, i guess that drilling thing was kind of a "Duh!" thing, no? Well thanks, I'll be saving myself some major time from now on!

I am currently building my first neck thru guitar (its a bass actually). We plan on having all the woods in the neck go entirely through the body, HOWEVER, im 99% positive this isn't necessary. I can't see your picture, however from what I interpret, it looks like your going for what Litchfield did here. As you can see the purpleheart is the only portion of the neck that goes all the way through. Your main concern is going to be overall neck stability in relation to the body. As Long as the portion(s) that runs all the way through the body is thick enough to provide even stability so that you dont run the risk of snapping your neck off, I BELIEVE you are fine. Don't quote me on that though. Also just make sure your glue joints fit very snugly and that you use a good glue (I like titebond). Peace, Mitch

Does everybody just bore through the wood when you cut your cavitities. I tend to worry about burning the wood and blowout so I go in shallow passes until I reach the desired depth. Should I reevaluate my method?