ansil

Just to help out all of you playing with the lm386 chip heres some info, actually the question above about resistor r2 [didn't see anyone answer it so i thought i would send ya a link] http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-263.pdf http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-512.pdf http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM386.pdf third link page 5 theres also a section about using positive feedback in the lm380 app notes to get increased gain. hope that helps.

actually lk thats what i did, and you are right.

ilike the 555 with a led ldr combo. i was able to get it to do some fun things, and i only like a few tremolos anyway, but this was the closest thing i could get to ahhhh shoot what was that really famous trem everyone goes on about. anyway i like it a little better but i like mine for anything i would use trem for. i think the 555 is an interesting chip. lol but on the same hand i am insane

hey lk did you see that guy who was using a toaster to drop the voltage in his amp. forget exactly what he was doing exactly saw a link along time ago. anyway, thought i would say hey. and ask you if you rmemebered that. ciao picked up some killer molex connectors too. and a flat screen 17" monitor if the guy from ebay will ever email me back. it needed a powersupply

haaaaaaaaaaaaa i coudlnt' have said ti better myself. lol. you know the little marshall is still running on 12volt heaters and havent' changed the tubes again yet. lol.. dont' try this at home kids. now if you want you can do some serious hacking on the thing but your mileage may vary. lol full blown tube preamp. easy enough. preset eq. or pop a couple of holes in the chasis and mount them. i personal was thinking of just using bias style pots with the head adjustment. on perfboard to basically make a jcm 800 style preamp and eq. then plug it into the return of the unit and use the fx. pan all the fx hard right in the presets. disconnect the digital preamp on the left. and use the tube preamp and eq into a volume control into the left side of the stereo amp. its two lm3886's set up in a basic national.com pdf sheet. not very hard to decipher. that way you can get great tube tone, digital fx [mediocre fx really but a bunch of them] a stereo power amp and pan each of them and still have midi control. however you would need ot do a few things if you wanted to midi control the gain section on the tube preamp. i am thinking led/ldr or perhaps the motorized pots. that woudl be cool theres a guy who has a cheap midi interface you can build i bleive its jon hollis. also please take to heart what lk has said abovce. i will not try to talk you out of doing this. but i am INSANE i do some things simply because i have nothing better to do, and i don't always take accurate or any notes. alot of times its one off's. you have researched the behringers impeadance. somethign i should hvave done but i just went balls out. guerilla tactics aren't always succesfull i have screwed up a lot of stuff in my time. but i again i did it when i was young so i dont' want to scare you. but at the end of the day, i would find a simple way of doign thigns unless you are insane as well then by all means. I figured it out my kids the same way, he will take the longest route possible sometimes for no reasons. i laugh at this, his mothers annoyed by it lol. oh well. thats life. hacking on a behringer isnt' that hard, building a halfway decent tube preamp to do one particular sound isn't that hard putting it together is where its sink or swim time. sorry i am sleep deprived now, msut get offline ciao ed one last note, a trick i learned along time ago, was to split my guitar signal from say a stereo pedal [buffer still splits the signal regardless on or off] and send one side of it to a little preamp that i had for dirty sounds [old fender squier ss amp that was literly blown up.] and the other side went to the mxr bass amp that was also a fender, the preamp pedal ran into an eq which then went to the front of the bassamp and it was set really for the distortion channel but it had a few nice features. one was that if you didnt' put an fx send on the fx loop but you used an fx return, you could use the clean power [and or the eq section of the preamp depending on how you set the switches] of the bass amp and bypass the clean sound, most of the time i would set it up so that the clean side would be the straight amp maybe with some chorus or something into it and some reverb a nice sound really. and then the dirty would make it channel switching from a second amps output. a little noisy at the time but i had some nice vai/dreamtheater heavy gain sounding crunch. in reality if i had that same rig right now, i would use it over anything tube made as it had such a nice tone to it, and it was darn loud too. i have a crate right now that has the tube preamp and has a SS power amp, and i use only the powersection until i decide to sell it that is, got it in a real sweet trade. ciao ed

uh you know i did this with a 555, and a led/ldr and made a nice vibrato. best of luck.

to be perfectly honest with you, i was trying to find my notes on it. but alas i can't seem to find it. at the time it was total expirament, i coudlnt' find values and didint' care to read what they were, i knew how to make the tube preamp and i found a place to hook in and out too, and well that was the begining of it, personally

well there is a solution to that problem, but it can be a little tedious. you can ad in a piece of metal behind the bridge piece ie the bone or plastic and have it touch all the strings thus grounding it.

led light touch switch system for the pickups. put some machine symbols inlayed in the body with them back lit with leds or fiberoptics throught the whloe guitar. install a vibrating mechanism to get the guitar to resonate at that certain freq.

If you have a junker neck lying around or would just like to play with it, you can get similar effects to fiberoptics using heavy guage nylon fishing wire. is it the same no....... not by a long shot, but however it can help you get the basic ideas down on a scrap piece of wood before you go and spend money on the optics. i am doing a body inlay and thinking of utilizing the fiberoptics. mainly cuase the two pieces will be controled by tthe same switch, and it would be easier to just have them light up via the same source. ciao ed ps for those who doubt this, remember the 80's..radioshack had this little light that would change colors and it would shoot off, the light from its strands. that wasn't fiber optics, that was cheap plastic,. anyway. bed now sleepels

It's hard for me to believe that anyone found reason to argue with that - must be a full moon! Hmm i know about full moons, i got me some silver wire to keep the werewolves away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Do you need some LK???? lol

very welcome

http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/wahpedl/wahped.htm

yes and yes its saved

i was using a carvin m22 bridge pickup inthe neck, and a tone zone in the bridge. one of the best combo's i have ofund. i am wanting to try their m22sd supposed to be really loud. i love their pickup chart they have too. so you can compare. the freq of each pickup or at least an idea.

if you are talkin about what i did some time ago [couldnt find it on search either] i did a tube preamp stage for my behringer. later i redid it and then later i took it out, and redid the amp normally and let a friend have it on semi permanent loan. but mine was a V-ampire not the Vamp modeling station just to be clear. theres all sorts of room in the behringer for stuff like this. however the best thing to do is to replace the voltage tranny with a beter one, perhaps lighter. and basically you are using the back input and bypassing the preamp. essentially i jsut made it into a jcm800preamp that was the last version of it, before going to make it all tubepre and power, later it just got to the point i was worrying about the structural integrity of the chasis. all in all i would do it again in a heartbeat. try the hammond 229 transformers they are small and have ample voltage and current.

thats about right. however you might want to check your transformer, mine only had the 4 ohm output and no other tap to make it 8 ohms. also a 6v6 is a nice mod to it. i am hopefully getting mine out of storage this weekend. [long story envolving repairs and former drug dealer/music store owner oweing me money]

i have played the epi, and man it smokes nice cabinet, i thought about just buying up some of them and modding them. btw its a 4 ohm load fyi. just thought i would let you konw.

my guess would be to krunk up the lfo and the regen as well as the bias. and just use a keen eye on where they were set before. there are no rules as long as you can put it back to the way it sounded before lol ed

question 1 you have a pic of the board here with all the parts. Power Output: 5 watts Output Tube: 1 - EL84 Preamp Tube: 1 - GT-12AX7M Controls: Volume. Configurations: 1-8 Combo Colors: Black. Dimensions and Weight: 13 1/2" W, 13 1/2" H, 9" D; 22 lbs taken from dr z site above. so 1 12ax7 1 el84 the resistors can be made out so asuming its not painted with fake values i would just make a schematic out of what you see. personally [maybe i am wrong] I belive if you can't do a rough scheme of an amp this small of parts count based of the supplied info you shouldnt be building it [experience and such high voltage.] but currently i am working on a scheme of it, i will let you know how it goes and i suggest you try for yourself. thats how we all learned ps this is said to be informative not as a slam ciao ed

You can get stacking switches I know but these get very big and are unlikely suitable for a guitar. Otherwise, I personally don't think you will find such a device easily, and certainly not cheaply. I'm not even sure it is desirable in operation for the sustainer...but that is a personal opinion of course. Ideally I'ds like to see some push button operation or somthing as intuitive as a vibrato arm for adding in the sustainer at will. Fender's S1 switch also sounds promising and I am told is 4PDT which would be adequate and be identical in connections to the toggle switch I currently use. Digital switching really is the answer but I don't know how to impliment such an arrangement. A digital switching circuit could be able to provide any number of switch opitions from a a single pole switch...even a momentary push button, or touch pad...or indeed any rotary switch, and that would really be the answer right there! Anyway...as for the device...both magnet arrangements would work but with differences in pickup response and tone. There seems to be some confusion about what EMI is and the role of the permanent magnets...so I will try to explain. A pickup senses disturbances in it's magnet field caused by the strings vibrating through it. These disturbances are "picked up" by the core or wire which produces a small current/signal which is amplified. A passive pickup requires thousands of turns of wire to produce a strong enough signal for the amplifier. The "shape" of the magnetic field influences the amount of the string is sensed and how strong the signal to an extent. The driver acts in reverse...the string is held in the sway of a magnetic field created by the permanent magnets. An amplified signal in the driver coil, disturbs this field causing the string to vibrate at the frequency of itself, as this is the signal driving it...creating a feedback loop...and infinite sustain. So...there are two types of magnets...the permanent magnet and the electro-magnet (the coil of wire with the amplified signal going through it). It is the electro-magnet alone that causes electro-magnetic interference (EMI) when the signal is picked up by the pickup. More power then, will only result in more EMI. An inefficient coil will require more power for the same effect...more EMI. A design that is large and not focused...more EMI. The permanent magnet wont stop it, but they and ferrous materials in the form of magnetic sheilding (staples, etc) may be used to influence it by creating some additional focus or soaking it up before it gets to the bridge pickup...but some will travel down the metal strings anyway, so simple distance between the driver and the operating pickup is best. Please note that adding more magnetic power with permanent magnets will try and inhibit vibration, making it difficult for the string to vibrate freely (that's why you don't get super powerful magnet pickups) and so make it difficult to drive them too. The electro-magnet (the coil) is the key component of this device. The thin driver design seems to be the most effective that I could devise that kept the EMI in an efficient compact form that keeps this energy localised around the driver. It has other advantages too....like the ability to combine the pickup and the driver, or to surface mount the driver...but these are secondary to the intent of the design. Anyway....I hope that clears it up a little. A thin driver a distance away from the pickup, well potted to exclude any secondary signals produced within the coil by internal vibration with an average (pickup strength) magnetic field, driven by a circuit that is just powerful enough will produce the desired response. As for switching....you may be on your own there...good luck, but you may have to review the rotary option for the sustainer control. However you switch it, get the thing working to a standard simple design before you or anyone else gets too fancy with it. If I had taken that advice initially, I could have saved myself a lot of effort and expense. Sometimes simple is best. I am sure there can be improvements made to it...I think people should have something to improve and understand why it works before launching into ideas that may prove to inhibit it's workings...perhaps to the point of it not working at all. So...good luck everyone...and now it's back to my sleep and work cycle I seem to be on...cheers... pete hey psw. how many poles would work for you, i know a little about electronic switching. but i am sure lk does as well. i have played with cd4016 for various projects. hope that helps

you know steel wool works equally well.

true true but i thought i would let him figure something out for himself. ed

ok heres the jist of it. true bypass is nothing more than a straight input to output with nothing in between. so you would disconnect the wire coming from the input jack [the hot wire not the ground] and connect it to one side of the swich. do the same for the output in one posistion it should connect to the orgiinal point it camef rom. and in the other you should connect them together. i will draw it for you.

weller sells a complete station for 35usd up to 50 watts, and includes the iron. i have been using it for over two years