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Gorecki

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Everything posted by Gorecki

  1. I use to teach the diatonic scale with five fret shapes first while covering the entire fretboard. Penatonic type playing first makes it harder for people learn a full scale wise motion. But if they learn the full scales first, they can use blues scales while knowing they can throw a 3rd, a 6th, or a 7th in once in a while suddenly making 'bend a string' boring blue solos, somewhat jazzy and more melodic with little effort. The results is covering the normal scale but also half of the mode above. Ie. G maj will cover most of A dorian. After working with a fingering shape this large for a while you can go up and down the fretboard quite quickly and it makes a lot more notes available in the same area. Then move on to modal playing and exotic scales.
  2. Seems a Dremel is the a number one tool, a jewlers saw to cut but if it's metal, I'm not sure where to go with that. I'm taking a one week Inlay class in about a month and got 'The Art of Inlay' on order so I may not be your most versed respondent.
  3. Yes, not including how power is rated (ie 10w at .005% THD, is louder then 100w 10% THD) Solid state once 'maxed out' does nothing but clip. The sound wave gets cut right off, no where else to go, sorta like a limiter. Tubes however don't have this limitation. They simply produce more distortion instead of clipping. Which can prove more favorably for a guitar player. I'll use tube gear till the day I die! Brian
  4. Just for clarification on how sound works, the above is NOT true. To increase the volume of sound by 3 db you must double the source. Example I've always used is if you stand behind a running jet (not likely) and place another jet running exactly like the other next to it. The sound increase will only by 3 db. Extreme example because 1w of power produces a lot of sound: Meaning if a 5w source produced 50db It would take 327,680w to produce 99db So, it takes a LOT of juice to make it 'twice' as loud. This stuff is audio 101. Brian
  5. You could probably identify the bass at epiphone.com or post a pick, we'll figure it out.
  6. Ya I discovered that little trick when reaming out the peghead for larger tuners. Also getting the impression from other reading that plugging the holes is a good idea from the stand point of it being a basswood body, that appearently swells like a balloon when water from wet sanding gets into drilled holes. Learning a lot folks, appreciate the advice, hopefully I'll have something to show if I ever get decent enough weather (for more then a day) to spray in. Brian
  7. Lots of great ideas, thanks guys. Thinkin I'll use some snapped off toothpicks in the through body holes and the rest I'll tap out with a drill bit by hand if need be...seems practical..
  8. Just thought this would be a fairly common issue and I would think there is some common method of dealing with it? Starting to guess I'm wrong.
  9. I have to say this is my dumbest question yet but after many attempts to search the forums, I still don't have an answer. What do you do about pre-drilled pickguard, bridge, (and especially) through body holes before finishing? I'm concerned mostly about my through body holes. The ferrels side is pretty big but the top side holes look like they could get plugged up with primer, paint and clear coat by time I'm done. Brian
  10. Go to the tutorials section of projectguitar.com May be a lot of work to strip but can be done.
  11. ahh... found it http://www.alan.net/prgfeat/rrlacquer.pdf Snippet "NC lacquer was originally developed as both a substitute for shellac and as a way to exploit the large post-war reserves of coal tar by-products in the form of the nitrated cellulose or “gun cotton” and toluol, a distillate of coal tar. It has served us well but its principal drawback is that it yellows badly with age, and may even exhibit some degree of cracking or crazing."
  12. I read something about this too in a PDF article from woodworking mag or something I found on the net, can't find it now but they mention of nitro yellowing in time was mentioned and what is the cause of many things getting that antique look over time is the yellowing of nitro.
  13. I'm like'n this. I spent years playing along with albums (remember those?) and these tracks take out the extra mud...cool. POST AWAY PEOPLE, I B JAMMIN!!!!
  14. I use to work at GC in Oakland, CA and Berkeley, CA and San Francisco, CA for about 4 years total. Granted I wouldn't call it a place to go looking for a career but we had a lot of fun in Oakland some days. B
  15. ....and be prepared to ream out the tuner holes in many cases. I just did mine this weekend with five drill bits stepping up as I went cause I don't have a drill press and not willing to pay $70 for a reamer at stewmac. B
  16. Well, I'm otta real ideas, reranch is pretty expensive when you include shipping. Just read the labels on things and check paintdocs.com for it's composite. Will give you the generals of if it's poly, arc, or NC. Anyone else got any input???
  17. Nice, very nice, funny I just spend the entire fathers day watching Orange County Chopper for the first time (I work too much) seeing the amazing work they do, especially the painters they comm.. Very nice dude! Brian
  18. Absolutely beautiful so far, I personally like the more purple but that's my trip not yours...simply awesome curly. I could only hope I could do something that wonderful looking some day.
  19. From what I understand, vast majority of their paint is Acrylic Lacquer. I'm getting ready to use it and get the impression, it's not the best clear coat to get that 'wet look' cause it has a tendency to be just a bit cloudy compared to something like nitro. It can be wet sanded without any problems though. My 1 1/2 cents. Brian
  20. Same here, you'd think it would be obvious since a miss spelling spells a completely different word?!?
  21. There's a list of schools at StewMac Linky I'm going to a week long workshop in August in Boston on Inlays at one of them. Brian
  22. He already answered the paint question. Dupli-Color Auto. I completely agree, I want to know every little detail of how this guitar came into being. I keep going back to the picks to look at it again, and again and again! Would be nice to know up front though is on the peghead, was the Holographic material laid first then masked to leave the logo unpainted, or was it cut from Holographic material and laid on the paint? Chicken and Egg, which is it?
  23. Cool You did part of this with dupli-color? Brian
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