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cherokee6

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Everything posted by cherokee6

  1. Thanks for all the input. I forgot about the policy of most mills not wanting to cut wood from people's yards for fear of nails, etc. I was planning on air drying the wood or building a solar kiln. Anyway, my buddy told me its one of the softest of the hardwoods, hence, it's great for cabinets and floors, but probably not for instruments. I was surprised it is used on an acoustic. I suppose some tight, straight grained stuff would work just as poplar is used and requires the same characteristics for it to work. Thanks!! I still may give it try and see how it works - in 2 years!
  2. I do a bit of stained glass work. 2mm is roughly the same as the 2/32" glass normally used. You need to score it with a glass cutter. Once is enough. The inexpensive hardware type is fine. use a bit of oil on the area to be scored prior to doing so. Do not use the ball end of the cutter to tap the glass, its made for thicker stuff. Anyway, if you score it well using firm. but not hard pressure, you may be able to crack it by hand. (cut on a 60 - 70 degree angle). You can use the edge of a table also. This is for straight cuts only. Otherwise you need a set of groziers. Curved cuts may require a set of radii cuts to avoid cracking the piece. Presuming you do not have a glass grinder, you can sand the edges with 120 - 180 grit tape to a flat (such as glass) surface. Check the Delphi glass site. Good luck with your project.
  3. I have a tree that I may have to cut down to make way for a hanger at a flying club I belong to. I hate cutting down trees and especially hardwoods. Anyway, the tree is what I believe to be hickory. It's quite tall and very straight. I'm thinking of taking it to a mill to have it cut into boards, necks, bodies, etc. Any ideas on its use for a solid body or a neck??
  4. Not to go off the topic too much; a lot of professional luthiers just use they're bench grinder to shape the tangs on the frets and forget all the fancy stew-mac gadgets.
  5. I was told by an avid woodworker and part time salesman at Woodcraft that he found the Veritas plane to be excellent. It adjust for both convex and convex surfaces and runs about $50. Lie Neilsen has beautiful stuff, but command quite a few bucks ( not that they're not worth it!).
  6. I know boxwood is pretty popular in foreign manufacturing. Could it be the wood looks darker due to aging?
  7. I picked up a few of their own brand of bits and they seem to be pretty well made. So far, no problems.
  8. You don't ever have to buy router bits from Stew-Mac. There are plenty of outfits that carry what you need. The key, as mentioned is the quality of the bit. You are going to get what you paid for: the savings today might mean only getting one or two guitars out of it, or a ruined one. As suggested, the Bosch bits at Lowe's are very good and should be considered vs. the less expensive Ryobi or Skil bits. You can also buy from many good online places, the shipping of which is probably the same as the sales tax. Check some other hardware stores near you to see what they have. I got a pattern bit recently from woodcraft and am pretty happy with it. Good Luck in your decision.
  9. Then I guess they're worth it! Nice work. Problem: the 5150 book isn't available and that's the one I want!
  10. Anyone know of these books? Are they any good before I waste some $ on them? http://www.paintyourownguitar.com/ The results look fantastic!
  11. Yeah, Taylor used a joint like that. It's pretty strong as more surface area is in contact and obviously it is a better joint. However, a lot of the more modern adhesives are pretty strong on there own and may not need the extra security. I'd bet you wouldn't get the LP "snapping head" syndrome with that! Let us know if you acquire one and use it!
  12. Got mine off ebay for $15. They're fine. By the way, Earlwine (no guarantee on the spelling!) in one of his books suggests getting a half-way decent set of nippers at the hardware store and grind 'em down, but, to be used as pullers, not necessarily nippers. And you guys are correct: $30 bucks for a good handtool that's properly machined, ground, etc. is not alot. Compare a Chinese set of channel locks or other pliers with the American ones; you'll see a vast difference.
  13. or this? http://www.repairguitar.com/paypal/On_Boar...ar_Effects.html
  14. How about this?? http://tonefrenzy.com/vintage_effects.html
  15. I gave Louis several calls and requested a catalog each time. Never got one, so I gave up. If that's indicative of the service, I won't be purchasing from him.
  16. I think you should insist Sound at 11 get you another piece!! That's going to look great!
  17. Check Brian's Universal Jems site. He's got the Allparts stuff discounted for the members!
  18. WHOA!! Lots of good building for the next several years! And its all dry!! We look forward to seeing pics of your projects!!
  19. I say we pass the hat around. It's overdue, me included.
  20. According to the shops in the area, he's been out of Ct. for quite awhile. He was not well regarded by these other shops. As many have astutely observed, his web site says it all. I've also had the pleasure of emailing to no avail and speaking with their tech people who seemed clueless.
  21. Man, you guys can go on about this topic. However, (ahem), I have regular Grovers on my LP (no trem) and they're always in tune. Good luck with all the numerous choices laid out. Now that you're back to square one, you may want to consider cost as a way to eliminate some of the choices.
  22. Do a search in the forum for the thread. I think someone got one not too long ago, say Jan. or Feb. If I recall, they use veneer on their tops vs.. say 1/2 or better stock prior to carving. The kits look tempting, however, I'm sure you'll want to swap out the hardware and pickups. Then again, they can't be any worse than the popular Sega kits. Good luck with your choice.
  23. There are a couple of other choices. I think Mighty Mite sells a set. I believe they're a bit cheaper. Check the Allparts website also. They have Dunlops with 2 choices of profile: one sits closer to the body than the other. They also carry the Schallers. I have Schallers on my Lp. They work great but they stick out alot so you need to remove them prior to putting the guitar into your case. I'm sure Brian has the stuff at Universal Gems quite a bit cheaper. http://www.allparts.com/categories.php?cat...STRAP%20BUTTONS I'm intrigued with the Stew mac set. I'll have to get a set and try them out.
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