westhemann

I appreciate your poor attempt to offer criticism since you so clearly are a master of the craft,but you should know I no longer listen to anything you say or any opinions you may have.It's sort of like a mosquito buzzing around that you just swat at from time to time...You just don't matter to me. But I do realize you are just trying to feel better about yourself by retaliating for my calling out your ignorance.It's still all just a little sad.Have a nice day. It's great that you mention all of the things that I already said I didn't like about it...just goes to show you can't even try to call me out without my help

And by the way,Mahogany and Maple are two of the easiest to find and some of the most modestly priced woods in existence and have been used over and over and over to create great guitars. So that is the obvious answer to the original question.

I'll just say one thing on this oft discussed topic which has been beaten to death over the years... Guitar building is woodworking.No more,no less.Identifying suitable woods for your purposes and knowing how to make "less ideal" woods work for you is the most important part of woodworking IMO.Nobody can give you the "easy answer" and nobody can hold your hand over the internet until you learn to cross the road by yourself. Until you learn through EXPERIENCE gained by DOING,you would do well to stick with the easy woods...the ones with which many world famous musicians use to record their art. If you want to experiment and blaze a trail for yourself instead of following the main highways already cleared for you,then why would you ever expect to find all of the answers on the internet? "I want to do use woods that other people don't use because I don't care what everyone else uses....so what do you guys use?" seems a little bit strange to me.

Sounds like it'll be pretty cool.

I'd like to see a Dark Witch...

Not really.I filled the pores on the spanish cedar with CA before the tung oil and so it all feels the same.Only time will tell if the feeling lasts.

You know,it's pretty nice.It has a ton of crunch and clarity with just enough sweetness to sound great with leads without losing it's mean-ness.Like a JB with a touch more treble. I like it.There is something about it that feels a bit more cheaply built than Duncan,and the pole pieces don't seem to exactly match any known bridge,but the sound is there

I like seeing that again.It reminds me I have to do better

1 11/16" nut

You mentioned it a while back and that's why I thought I would try it.It really makes the neck feel incredibly flat.At the moment I like it better than my favorite guitar's neck(original Wizard on Japanese Sabre). Time will tell.I do have a history of liking things at first and then not liking them later,but I do think this one may stick.

Thanks,Rad.I have been playing and tweaking it off and on all day.It really plays very well and has a good broad tonal range.It also is another piece of evidence in my "bigger wood pores=more pronounced bottom end" theory because in spite of the maple-like density of the Movingui body it doesn't have a bright tone...not as "dark" as mahogany but certainly not as bright as maple. This is also the first neck I made where I keep the same thickness from 1rst fret all the way to where it meets the heel.I usually keep it 1/16" thicker towards the heel.The result is that this neck feels more comfortable and "faster" than I am used to.I actually raised the action a bit to slow my hand down to what I am used to.

I feel the same about the headstock,I think the transition from neck to headstock is too short.My neck blank was just really tight and I didn't want to scarf it. I want to do more like this,but that is one thing I think needs improvement. Something you may find interesting is that the entire guitar is made from a Gibson template by bringing every line in 1" and carrying the lines out to points....headstock is the same,but more like 1/2"

Nothing fancy here.Not going to post a ton of pics.I just finished this and so here it is.A ton of mistakes and errors in planning,but it came together in a good workhorse guitar. Movingui body,Spanish Cedar and Maple neck,maple fretboard,tung oil finish(very dirty looking as tung oil always is),Tone Zone bridge pup,Air Classic neck,volume/tone/3 way,Wilkinson tuners,aluminum scratch plate,Dunlop straplocks

Grey I don't mind. I have learned on your guitars that they will never end up like I think they will.The end result is always better than I pictured.

Son of a....! Once again I am jealous.When I grow up I want to be like you.

Oh,we are judging finish quality on price now? Kea,I don't know if polyester is the answer for you.Maybe the climate where you are plays havoc with what you are using.As you know,I have had good luck with the same conversion varnish you use,though it can be tricky.Your work is good though,so maybe these headaches are just par for the course unless you want to go to wiping on finishes or the like.

Tin it first.And clean your tip.And tin the tip.Only takes me 5 seconds or so and I don't do anything special except locate the ground near the edge of the pot because it takes heat better. Seriously...tin it...anyone "pretty damn good" at soldering would not be having this conversation.Soldering larger parts like on a guitar is not the same as soldering the tiny points on a board

Okay I am now of the opinion that Bob makes these questions up as an attempt at some sort of humor.Nobody(and I mean nobody) can have every single question they ask be so ...."Bob".

http://burlwoodshop.com/burl-Woodworking-Lumber/Ebony-burl-Wood Only thing I can find

Kalvin Klein?

Sapelle is a great choice over alder IMO,as well as set neck over neck through.Looks like a great start

Nope.Not true at all. I prefer higher bridges and steep neck angles purely because It fits my picking style better,

Actually,my hand issues started after trying to switch to a seven string. Hand issues are very individual.What works for one person is not going to work for another.Not sure why that isn't extremely obvious,since obviously hand sizes,finger lengths,and finger widths are all so different. That's why I waste no time on "ergonomic" neck profiles.

Oh man,good luck.I have had fretting issues for years now and trying to come up with a solution is extremely individual.I have had over 60 guitars at one point and out of all of those only two are comfortable.One is a Japanese Ibanez Sabre(93) with the original Wizard neck and the other is a KXK custom V. More important than the neck profile(for me) is how the guitar sits.A guitar has to feel low enough at the picking end and high enough at the fretting end,so it needs to be slim enough through the body to comfortably fit my own personal contour while balancing well enough so the headstock stays about shoulder height while standing.The further I go towards the high frets the more uncomfortable I feel through the wrist,and if a neck is too thick my middle finger tends to lock up and become useless....a bad neck profile only affects one finger for me,but a bad position affects my entire wrist. My advice is to play as many as you can until you find one that's good for you,then buy it and keep it forever and never play another one.

The main advantages to rotosound that I could see were that SS has a higher tensile strength,so you could use light gauges that were normally not thick enough for bass tunings,and that they had a snappier tone.Plus they don't rust.On a bass all of that is important to a lot of bassists,because bass strings are so expensive.They hold their tone in my experience for well over a year(though I didn't play that often) and stay clean. None of that is needed on a guitar IMO.I am curious though about the guages offered,because like I mentioned,the tensile strength is higher.I think that if you used medium strings the tension to tune them to E might be too much stress on the neck. Might be useful on low tunings in short scale instruments...maybe if you wanted to tune your Gibson like a baritone.B might sound good on a 24.75" scale and allow you to keep the strings at .10 instead of .12 All of that is just hypothetical though.