westhemann

you put the magnets on one side only...the other side would be a steel plate of some type. i plan on epoxying a thin sheet of steel on the back of my wooden cavity cover

yes...use the top mounted nut.. trust me when i tell you the rear mount is a bad,bad idea...personal experience

i didn't mean to imply anything...it looks good to me

okay...that's diffent from what i thought... i figured you extended the tenon under the neck pickup and bolted it down with inserts keeping the front two bolts under the pickup. mickgaurd...i was talking about the fact that you need a certain bottom pocket area to counter the leverage of the strings

i don't understand what you mean....

you arenot at the wrong place...these guys are debating each other,not you.that's how the info gets here,through debating different ideas. but a 17 year old girl is quite capable of doing an excellent job her first time.in my experience girls are more patient and pay more attention to detail naturally.that's something we guys have to fight every step of the way(our lack of patience) i doubt anyone has a tracing to give you...like was said,most of these guys either design their own or take a front view pic off the net and scale it up.

thank you for the resize...it loads MUCH faster now and it no longer messes up the screen ratio

the difference is negligible in my experience. www.tremel-no.com you have been here a while...i am surprised you don't know of this

i was going to say the exact same thing...dave specializes in special rings and covers of various materials

no that's not what he said...he said he believes your finger behind the fret you are pressing is the "tone sink",and that the nut needs to be a bit softer to keep the volume swell of the note similar...rather it is fretted or open. i don't think my wording is any clearer...he was pretty clear.he also said it wasn't a very obvious difference. i am not saying i agree...that's just how i interpret what he wrote.i believe once the string hits the fret,the fret isolates it completely from what is behind it...but who's to say?i have not studied it,so i very well may be wrong.it's all just theory...or "voodoo" if you wish. i don't get into all the voodoo theories any more..i used to,but now i just concrentrate on improving my build quality,regardless of nut,fret,or paint type

that's a nice unobtrusive heel....almost a bolt "in" instead of "on" i think i see how you manage it and still keep the strength needed...but i am sure that is not meant to be public knowledge,so i won't ask

is the string old?may have lost it's tone...hard to tell by "wawawa"

Correct, but there is still a 15-20kg alloy case with a guitar in it, that is enclosed in three layers of cardboard, that will be getting shipped air frieght, via a courier.... $300 usually. Plus an alloy case $280. still one heck of a deal when you convert to u.s. dollars. i have never seen a dinky look as good as that bolt on of yours,yet like you said,the u.s. custom shop dinky's are more expensive

great name for a guitar company

good grief dude...resize that pic or leave it as a link

they break it up...they resawed and thicknessed with the thicknessing sander in about an hour..if it takes 15 minutes,they charge 15 minutes $85 an hour is pretty standard.and nobody else in town i know of has a bandsaw that will resaw 16 inches...or a thickness sander that big either. if fine lumber has all that,i will find out wen i go there soon for mahogany for my next big project

if i am not mistaken the agreement went through so that now there are no import fees to ship something from australia to the u.s.

okay...so an abrupt about face... after putting the guitar up all day,i came back to it today prepared to take the dye off...but it was cured hard....i sanded and sanded and it was just like it's supposed to be...so good news,the finish is fine,i guess it just takes longer to cure with the dye in it.i double checked the dye and it said specifically it was good for catalyzed varnishes,so i was pretty happy. so i looked at the red,and it was a bit monochromatic for me...so i added a yellow translucent on top of the red.it really livened it up it seems. so it will sit until the weekend before i touch it...then i will sand and clearcoat.. so here is the part you guys are not going to like... i WAS going to originally dye the body only,and leave the neck clear,even though i secretly wanted the fretboard and neck to be the same transluscent as the body...then when i realized it was my guitar and i was going to do it how i wanted,i just did it my way. so i will i am sure take some heat forr my choice on this when you see it,but i wanted this thing to be metal....so i am switching to black hardware instead of the chrome...so it will be entirely translucent cherry/yellow all over,with black hardware... so i am going to have to use a different truss rod cover...i am starting to think about inlaying a cover like unrealize did,except obviously something to match this guitar...

yeah,that's it. gary did an awesome job on my bubinga.where did you get the pic?

forget all that...most places will just shoot you down or do a horrible job. go down 7th street(east) towards 183...when you are almost to 183 you will see shady lane...take a left(north) on shady lane and right there on your left is a little place that offers custom millwork...i had my bubinga thicknessed there...they have everything. ask for gary...he knows exactlty what he is doing,just let him know what it's for. he is a white guy about 6 feet tall with glasses and dark hair they charge $85 an hour and they don't take credit cards...

yeah i'm going to redo it natural...

i ordered 100 for $7 at the rare earth place.that should keep me for about 30 years

apparently my "compatible" dye was not so compatible....it stuck,but didn't cure as hard as it should have,so i have to take it back down to sealer and start over. the bad thing is that it's a maple fretboard,so it's got the bad finish on it too....and i really don't want to refret,so i have to manage to get it down to sealer next to the frets as well....pain in the ass is what it is. i am not so sure i liked the cherry red anyway...i think i am going to change it to amber

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i don't know right now,but i will be asking at an auto paint store in a couple of months. www.hok.com (house of kolor) has alot of premixed candy transluscents