westhemann

because to solder to the insert would take too much heat,then if you did get it,you would have a bunch of solder to scratch the wood of your top around the insert while installing it. soldering is not necessary in that instance...thecontact is all you need...by the way that is how EVERY manufacturer does it,including gibson,schecter,and esp just to name a few that i have personally changed the inserts out on...

i do not ground anything with my actives...most of the time i don't even sheild them....it just isn't necessary with emg. and i play at insane volume within about 5 feet of my amp at all times

you drill a hole from the control cavity to the bottom of the insert closest to it,and run a wire through there,strip the end,and make damn sure when you push the insert in that the bare wire is smashed between the insert and the wood..do not solder to the insert

tell me about it.a little tip on sandpaper...regular old generic sandpaper doesn't do a damnthing to this wood...i had to use 3m sandblaster 120 grit for decent removal rates...

okay..so it's about time to start posting progress pics http://westhemann.com/my%20music/pics/esp%...lorer%20002.jpg http://westhemann.com/my%20music/pics/esp%...lorer%20003.jpg http://westhemann.com/my%20music/pics/esp%...lorer%20004.jpg okay...so two pics with flash,two without...yes i still have my second rate camera...don't worry,when i finish the guitar i will buy a new camera and upload high quality images bubinga body...flame maple neck and fingerboard...ss frets...kahler 7300 trem...i have not made my mind up on the pickups yet...but the pups rggr posted in the rg 8 thread are now in my favorites...so i will probably use them,because the red rails will match the finish i am going to use don't know what else to say yet...no i am not going to post images of the back yet...that is the best part and i am not going to spoil it

http://www.carvin.com/guitartraq/about/ by the description i am not sure how useful it is for recovery

carvin offers that...it is an embedded chip

on the mode 4,you have four modes(imagine that!)...i use the first "channel" which is modeled after the jcm 800....i set it sparkly clean,then add the pedal gain from there.... since i have my preamp gain set so low,i use the master volume to set the loudness,which is where the 350 watts comes in handy...because you need ALOT of headroom to back off the gain so far and still have useable volume

that is one good looking pickup

i noticed the exact same thing a few years ago...it's true for ALL gain pedals. i have found the most guys in metal are trying to achieve close to the same tone,but how to get there vairies wildly for example...i have always played through marshall amps...which the metal zone,zoom driver,line6 stuff works well with...but i recently tried to run my metal zone through an old amp(peavey i think) of a friends,and it did not work well at all...but he could get a tone very similar to my rig by running a multi effects tone works unit through his...

well..i grew up in the time period in which videos were for madonna and tears for fears... metallica even went on record back then saying "we will never sell out and make a video" that changed to "well,we said we would never make a video,but we felt we really had something to say with "one"" and now they try to put everything on video right on down to kirk testing out a pignose amp in a hotel room...oh how the mighty have fallen.... slayer at least keeps their videos as basically just them playing live...which i like to see.exodus vocals are how i think metal vocals should be...with a rough edge but still actually using proper pitch.i can get behind lamb of god...because even though they do the "cookie monster" thing,it still sounds good and they change pitch to match the riff...i "don't" like the napalm death/obituary gargling thing...i mean really,what's the point?it's all just very boring.

check the pinned topics in the "inlay and finishing tutorial" section...

did you happen to check out the links i posted?probably 95% of all these sites posted in the thread are right there on the main site in a nice condensed version just waiting to be clicked on.might as well just put those last two links in one post,delete all of the other fifty some odd posts,close the topic,and pin it....same thing,just smaller... oh but wait...no reason to pin what is already on the main site,always in the same place...i think we would be better served with a pinned topic saying "rule # 1...check out the main site before posting" oh...but wait...i think that is already in the sign up agreement when you sign up for the forum. yeah...i think the point is...this topic is only a rehashing of what is already on www.projectguitar.com brian went through alot of effort organizing the main site.the least you guys could do is check it out once in a while...you might find something interesting... but i know that doesn't really fit with the "i want it now,fast and easy" philosophy of the day

try pau ferro...great fingerboard wood and a pleasure to radius and fret...smells like candles while you are working it

you took a big chance there...just clamping stuff willy-nilly like that you run a tremendous risk of your top cracking...you really should have straightened it first.it's like punching a cow...sometimes the cow just looks at you..sometimes the cow tramples you...and then as you are picking yourself up off the ground and limping off you think"i can't believe i was stupid enough to punch a cow"(yes...that story is based in reality...never punch a cow) you are not out of the woods yet either...it could still crack...though every day that it stays in one piece lowers the chances of that

well...lemon oil is a very light oil.. but most of my guitars have ebony boards and i never oil them...never had one crack...really that is one of the strengths of ebony...low maintenence

i buy the boards preslotted and radiused these days...i slotted my own at first...but it was too tedoius,i never enjoyed it... as far as the actual fretting...after about 8 complete fret installs,i have really found the knack for it...i have a procedure down,and it is very,very enjoyable for me now....probably the part of building i like the most...

in that case fine,it's thin enough... but i never had any problem with sand through on mine i did with epoxy as a sealer...more than likely the random orbit sander is the problem with the sanding through

let's not be too hasty....before blaming it on the heat(which it very well may be),did you install carbon fibre rods? because i had the exact same thing happen a while back from not having the carbon rods deepo enough,they were pushing the fretboard up in the middle,and it cracked... it could also happen if your truss rod was not installed to the right depth. from here http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=4599 all it takes is a fraction of a mm to do it and by the way,the only thing that can be done in this case is to remove the board,rout the rods deeper,and reinstall a new fretboard edit....i just saw your pics and i realize you bought rthe neck blank premade...so yeah,it's probably the furnace

mmm...nice pickup..i think if i were to build an 8,i would still try to stay active...i think it would need the definition of the emg...but meshuggah does have a decent sound with that pickup believe it or not,i find the body much more difficult than the neck...i think mostly because of all the routing and curved lines...i am soon to go back to building neck through instruments....i find them easier as well...i just hate all of the blending and neck pocket fitup involved with a set neck...way too much planning.

http://www.projectguitar.com/menu/sponsors.htm http://www.projectguitar.com/ref/factory.htm http://www.projectguitar.com/ref/repair.htm http://www.projectguitar.com/ref/unique.htm http://www.projectguitar.com/ref/acoustic.htm http://www.projectguitar.com/ref/electric.htm these are just a few of the links on the main page(projectguitar.com)(hint...pay special attention to the last two) in other words...there is not enough unique info in this thread to justify another pinned topic to clutter up the top of the page...don't you understand?it should be tutorials and information pinned up there...not "inspiration" inspiration can be picked up with a google search...

http://guitarpartsdepot.com/Merchant2/merc...ng-Bass-Pickups i am not sure of the dimensions...

don't alot of people just use the emg 707 or 81/7?

yeah..well let me give you my reasoning on the scale length and gauges.... in order tyo have a workeable string tension that won't break a .009 string,a 26.188" scale is about right for the tuning i mention...you will still have a slinky string feel,but still be tight enough at that tuning to not go "bbbojooonnnnggg" every time you hit the top string. 26.188 is a common acoustic scale,so lmii can make your board preslotted and radiused for you...i ordered that exact scale from then for my f guitar...and it is not so different from a 25.5" scale that you will have trouble going between guitars...i had a 27.5" scale and i could never get used to it because all my main players are 25.5" but there is no set in stone scale or anything for an 8 string...

well,production ibanez guitars have all sorts of fgigured tops...the only way to really get away from what they are already doing is with some sort of graphics or an off the wall paint job...maybe one of those color shifting high end auto style paint jobs?the kind where it looks a different color every time you move it? or a caramel colored basecoat covered with a translucent amber?red with translucent black topcoat? just think really hard about it...let your imagination run free...