AlGeeEater

Well, I know that you can set-up a jig to route the neck pocket it an angle. On this build though, I didn't route the neck pocket angle, it's going to have a flat tenon & mortise, & i'm going to recess the bridge so it solves the action problems that are associated with non angled neck pockets & tall bridges. You can do either a jig, http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...c=17871&hl= Or cut the angle into the neck itself (there's also a few 'nother alternatives in this thread) http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...c=18613&hl= Chris

Yeah, that gun will work with that compressor. See how the gun is rated at 3 CFM @ 30 PSI? As long as the compressor can surpass that, it's fine. The compressor is 5.2 SCFM @ 40 PSI, it'll work. Chris

It is, but you get the occasional music hour at 6AM every morning. The comes the Real World, Room Raiders and all that other garbage. I even believe they had an old episode of Headbangers Ball on at 2 am.

+! That's how I do it also! Chris

2 cans should be enough, are you sure you were building the coats thick enough? How far away from the surface where you spraying? Chris

You're never going to get a good high gloss without buffing out your guitar. The easiest, cheapest way to do this is to buy a few foam buffing pads & some buffing compound from your local auto store. You'll need fine cut compound, swirl remover & some wax. Since the body is sanded up to 1,500 already, you can buff out the guitar with ease. Just take the fine cut compound, swirl it onto the body & begin buffing. Start slowly with the speed and begin working your way up until the whole body is like a mirror. Start with the top, then the sides & then the back. Once that's finish, get a new pad and do the same with the swirl remover (make sure you give the lacquer time to cool off). You may want to go a little bit faster and use a lighter touch with swirl remover. Let the body hang overnight and wax it & you're done. Readers digest version indeed http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=1723 Chris

That's pretty much why I threw the string thru idea right out of the window after thinking about it. I'm recessing the bridge, because I like the look of them. Wrap around it is I guess, I really fancy the Pigtail wrap arounds on Stew-Mac. http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailp...und_Bridge.html I could probaly get away without recessing that bridge too too much. It's pretty low & sleek as it is, once I order it and get the full dimensions i'll have to see. Oh yeah, i'll also be carving the top like those Carvins, or pretty much like PRS. Peace, Chris

Yesterday I completed the tummy cut in the back. I think my tummy cuts look nasty (a good nasty, not nasty nasty ) on Les Pauls. Makes them look so beefy, but maybe i'm over thinking stuff. No pictures as my mom seems to be breaking everything I own in sight. What do you guys think about this idea though, making this baby a string-thru TOM instead of a stop tail TOM? I'm pretty sick of seeing stop tail LP's, and I think string-thru along with the recessed bridge would make this thing look real nice. Thoughts or pictures? Thanks, Chris

Thanks guys. Gotta love an angle grinder for quickness and the baby smoothness of my finger planes. Oh man so clean Chris

Tummy cut(still pretty rough): AANJ: I'll see if I can get better pictures of the AANJ from the side, and I tried to get pics of the binding but the battery on the cam died hehe. Chris

I think ash is one of the bigger woods you'll want to stay away from when dying directly onto raw wood. I've had nothing but good results dying alder straight up.

The way i'd do it (which may or may not be right haha) would be to bleach (if the maple isn't that pure color) the maple, seal the body with 5-7 coats of clear, spray your tinted clear. Chris Edit: It also looks like there's a lighter color before the dark blue, so i'd bleach the maple, dye the burst that light blue color, seal it and spray your tinted blue for the burst. Carrieburst anybody?

I cannot stand Rondo Music, the store, & Agiles. Personally the only LP copy worth getting is the top of the line one, as it's got a REAL 3/4" maple cap (with a 1/8" flamed maple veneer over that ). They're just cheap money saving knock-offs. I've never enjoyed playing one of them, and i've been to the Rondo store a lot.

+1 An angle grinder with a 40 grit sanding flap is a great tool!

I've always found it easier to route the truss rod channel after i've done the neck taper, so I can find the exact center of the neck where both anchors will sit (I use the Hot-Rod truss rods from Stew-Mac.). I'll then mark those areas, and set up a fence to have the router guide it by that. Works for me, and I never have any off-center truss rods which can cause problems down the road when you go to adjust them. See ya Chris

Is that an offer? Why yes it is. PM me if you're interested, i'll see if I can help you out.

Beggers can't be choosers. Just donate to the site, you're probaly going to be using this site for free information to help your project, so why not? (I'm one to talk ) http://www.guitarbuild.com/modules/mydownloads/

I can do flat black no problemo... Airbrushing, well that's a whole 'nother story.

They do, but I routed the mortise with my own templates (the bit I had was too long) which when I made somehow god a curve in them, so I had to fix the mortise with my hammer and chisels. It ended up being wider than a typical LP mortise, so I had to accomodate for that when I was shaping the tenon. The tenon templates were useless at that point. You can't use a router with them anyways, the best thing to do is to bandsaw it to shape, and use chisels & a plane to get everything neat and correct.

I know. I think the biggest reason I F'ed up was because I rushed it, and I didn't take my time on it. I was trying to get it done before I went to hang with some friends, but I guess I probaly should have just waited until I could focus all my attention towards it. Lesson learned, but it's still not a wasted neck! The neck shipped from LMI (just ordered it a half hour ago, go LMI! ), had it 3-dayed here for monday, so i'll get most of the work done on it on monday if I don't enjoy a day out with the gang. Peace guys, Chris

Dunno why I said that last night, musta been the paint fumes. I caulked it in today with some polyurethane stuff, worked fine. Anyways, i'm going to have to make a new neck for this (for the third time). I was shaping the tenon, and I got it to a nice snug fit, but then I realized I had to bring back more. So I started to do that, and somehow the tenon ended up too skinny for the neck pocket. :lmao Thing is, I also made the mortise on this a little wider than normal because there was a bit of a curve in the templates I made (which I fixed) so that's why the neck won't fit. The neck fits fine in the original templates, nice and snug. Now I gotta order a new neck and start over, oh joy

Here's the pics guys. I decided to just go with a standard Gibbo' headstock on this one, maybe i'll put a few more curves into ala pics. This still needs a ton of hand sanding though! Don't mind the little dent thing in the center of the headstock, it came from the drill press when I attempted to enlarge the hole for the truss rod adjustment. That failed, so I had to break out the hammer and chisel and widen it up. I just have to clean up the truss rod channel and glue in the truss rod (the cauk I used was utter crap, so i'm just going to glue it in. Fudge it. ). Also, in the first thumbnail the truss rod isn't glued down, it's just kind of placed in the slot so that's why it looks like it's popping out. There was also a bit of tension on it, so I just had to loosen the truss rod. That's it for today, but tomr. I plan on gluing, trimming and binding the fretboard, drill for the tuner holes and possibly start the tenon. Peace guys, Chris

It's a work horse. OK so that was lame, big deal. Anyways, that thing truly is a work horse (no pun intended this time). Great, great router and I love it. Pretty much all I can say about it.

Suh-weet! I've got the same Ryobi router as you, the one at home depot correct? Yeah, I hardly use it now that i've bought the Dewalt DW618, it's great! I don't really need a plunge router (might as well use my forstner bits for something ), so it works perfect. Good bits are a lot of the routers performance though! Sweet deal, hope it works out for you (and let this be a lesson to all you guys thinking about Ryobi ) Peace, Chris

OK, I cut the scarf joint, and everything wen't perfect. It looks GREAT, and i'm very pleased with it. I'm in the process right now of letting the glue dry on the heel too, i'll take pictures later tonight or tomr. Tomr. I plan on routing the truss rod channel, rough cutting the neck out, flushing the neck with the templates and possibly fit the neck into the pocket. See ya, Chris