RGGR
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Everything posted by RGGR
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I be darned if there wasn't a short clip of it already on youtube. You can clearly see the black bar (Roland??) on Adrian's Fender. Here is another one, but less visible. Darn..... futher search showed even clearer one.
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There were no seats in this event......just standing seats......and those monitors/big screens on the side give a very decent close up. I know the new album has some funcky accoustic stuff interwoven with the metal electric stuff......but it's hard to tell which effect these guys are using at the time. From little research so far I guess it must have been a Roland GK-3 or so. But reading up on the thing, I'm still don't exactly know what I could use it for. Maybe I have to check more into this Midi stuff. I was just bad seeing such an awesome metal voice giving in to the test of time. I think the new CD is great (after listening to it for a ocuple of time)....but yes, when they play their 80 stuff the roof just goes off the building.
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Tonight I saw Maiden live in the Brabant Halls in Holland. Guess Bruce and it's gang are getting old, as show was okay, only Bruce's voice was not as strong as it's used to be. He had hard time topping the three guitars. Still huge Maiden fan.....just I think the time has come the album stuff outpasses the live stuff.....and up to now it was the other way around. Now comes my questoin. I saw Adrian Smith using little black bar in between the tremolo and the bridge p-up. What is this little black bar (with wire attached) for? Is it Roland electonic p-up of some kind?? What effects can be created with it. Just curious.
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If you buy some expensive exotic wood, you better make sure your capabilities are up to it. Every time I see a newbie load up on some expensive exotic wood, I think......whooaaaaa, there goes a car in the crowd.
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Not really a swirl in my book, but nice effect suttle effect anyhow.
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Durawoods man...check him out on ebay. Or www.3dhardwoods.com. He simply has good stuff, for good prices. But if you have set your mind on one of these piece shown (and they are nice pieces) go get'm man. Money is just money. I spend quite a bit of time searching for the right top on my RGT 7. I always say....you don't pick the wood, the wood picks you. And kuddos for the people commenting on skill......no use getting $15,000 worth of high quality exotic wood, if it's your first guitar. (This is targetted to any newbie out there!!!)......Too many examples of people buying nice wood and crybaby later about tear-outs, f*ck-ups and other newbie mistakes that has ruined their higly priced wood. Get some experience under your belt. It's just as with women.....work your way up to the finer examples out there.
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Not shure what you mean by microplane template follower. Just cutting with bandsaw about 1/4" close to final line would be sufficient. I wouldn't go closer, as saw band sometimes wobbles a bit......so as safety zone I would say nothing less then 1/4". That would work.......robosander is a nice tool. If really wanna play chicken-**** you always can do the final sanding by hand. I did so with my RGT-7 build, just because I was fearful of tear-outs. But there are so many ways to get to same result. Just try some methods and see what works best for you. Just being trigger happy and foolishly routing wood away in deep passes is setting yourself up for trouble. But then again......you only learn from these kinda mistakes. When going for solid color finish, you can be more brave.
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I hear ya. Just interesting to see different people using different methods. Like the Quilted maple on the Satch one. Myka uses completely different technique from you......and still you both arrive at amazing guitars. It's stuff like that, that makes me come back to this forum time and time again. Live and learn, I guess.
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Drak? Why did you decide to finish guitar before making decisions about pups and bridge? Don't you now run the risk of screw-ups with routing/drilling pup cavities and or bridge studs?? Were you finishing trigger-happy, or do you have unlimited confidence in your drilling/routing abilities??? I thought the rule was that you first route all holes and cavities and then do your finishing. Also know the first rule is, that there are no rules.
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Still makes it a $20 investment on $500-1000 custom guitar. Not really an issue, I would say.
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It's $20 investment I'm happy to make. Everytime I use new bit, I'm suprised how well it cuts compared to old worn one. Like said before, it's my insurance fee. So I know if tear-out does happen,....it's not because I didn't want to fork up the $20 for a new bit. Penny wise, pound foolish is saying that comes to mind.
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Cheapest way of getting into guitar building is finding a "project guitar" on ebay. Use neck and hardware for your project. This way you will get experience while not braking the bank. I do think you could shoot for a great first guitar.....although experience learns that you will make mistakes along the way, and it's better to make these mistakes on cheaper pieces of wood then on the $500 Koa body blanks. The word is that your 3rd of 4rth guitar will reach playable levels. Donno, about that....... Do know that buying guitar in store is much cheaper then building one. But then again....what's fun of handing over the cash.
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Where did you get the impression it would be?
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Drak? What's up with the swimming pool size control cavity???
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When that pain in the arse brings along nice cold 6 packs, I think you will be okay.
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JEM, Universe, RG and RG-7's all have the exact same body shape. I have PM you about the drawings. Body is 1 3/4" thick. Headstock design can be found here. Look for the UV7PWH headstock..... Print headstock on piece of paper and scale the printout in such a way that locknut is 48mm wide. 1" = 25.4 mm Rest of specs of K7 can be found on http://www.jemsite.com/jem/index.htm. Neck specs...look for Wizard 7 Specs: http://www.jemsite.com/jem/necks.htm And please keep that ugly K7 inlay of the guitar will ya!!!
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Post pic on jemsite.com/forums and you will get your answer.
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That neck will go on the Axxion body, that's correct. It's your regular Ibanez 6 stringer headstock, but straightened out. So your regular Ibanez headstock points down.....this one is pointing straight. Similar to Iceman headstock. Tuners will be 3 by 3 (on each side). This was midway during the route, when I took the template off and was about ready to use final body shape as routing template. First thing my brother thought when seeing these pics.......darn...is he making two bodies at same time. So....noop, not huge binding, not two bodies.....just midway during routing process. Body shape is very close to Axxion shape.....I just incorporated an AANJ into the design and will use a bold-on neck. This is shape my brother picked out. That he is jumping for joy and can't wait to play it, is all that matters in this.
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Not to rain on your project, but I can't justify the cash out on tool I hardly use during the build. I just beg, steal, borrow my way into nice professional bandsaw and for 6 pack or pack of smokes they let me have all access I want. Wood working companies are great for this.
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As things are coming together nicely, I think it's about time this baby get's it's own thread. When I started building guitars a few years ago, my brother laughed his ass off. He tought that could lead to nothing. As time progressed, and he slowly saw all these pieces of wood being turned into guitars (in different state of completion), he started begging for his own. I asked him to pick a shape and color. He really digged the Ibanez Iceman & Dave's ESP Axxion. I threw both together and came up with Axxion body with bold-on neck (neck blank was lying around somewhere in the house). As build is progressing nicely and my brother is jumping for joy with each new progress.....I couldn't resist sharing with you guys as I married the body to the neck today. Here some more building pics. Enjoy.
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Top and back look fine....you can always decide to blacken the sides to hide the tear outs. Besides from tear outs your work looks pretty clean. With the experience under your belt you will make an awesome next guitar. Cause there will be more.
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MDF and sand paper are your friend in this. MDF is perfect meterial to work with in relation to templates. Sand MDF template to desired shape. 1/4" MDF is perfect for this. Then use template bit to follow the template and cut out the plastic cover or the actual cover route.
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Hmmmm....looking at it like that....I have to go for bottoms. Contrary to first commend, but I like the flow on the bottom one better then top one. Interesting
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I would flip headstock around....so point is point downward. That would flow better with the guitar. IMHO. I like the mock-up alot.