supplebanana

yep...Liberon do a WHITE wood dye... I have one right in front of me now. never used it yet tho' so not sure if this is how they do it. but the above 2 posts do sound feasable.

looks to me from those fret heights that it could be used for 2-handed tapping Stanley Jordan style....

the smaller the reference the more margin for error when upscaling. using a larger reference will result in less margin for error when measuring. as far as i'm aware the headstock angle is the same on both guitars - I haven't noticed a major difference between my friends guitars - but even if it was a degree or 2 more or less wouldn't make a noticeable differnce anyway. the one thing you do need to take into account is the NECK angle. the plans use a Floyd Rose trem but you say you're using a T-O-M then you'll either need to increase the neck angle or recess the bridge - this is where the book is invaluable - it shows you how to calculate the neck angle. there's no need to show the ML from the side really coz it's just a "slab" body ie - no contours/chamfers etc. I assume you're referring to section A-A on the plans... because of the above this IS the side elevation - the 44.45mm is the body thickness (approx 1.75") & it shows the position of the binding (black aquares) on the front & back of the guitar body. you wouldn't want to use abalone binding on this guitar if you're on a budget or you haven't bound a guitar before the abalone would be worth more than the rest of the guitar!! - the binding is just plain old white plastic & Stew Mac stock it here but not in 4mm thickness - the thickest is 2.29mm which is thick enough really.

because black screws would be the end of the world as we know it! yeah - they'd be LESS conspicuous but mags would still be better... why spoil the flow...? just my opinion anyway. it just looks so clean & tidy as it is.

hope that truss rod cover's gonna be held with magnets...

lol... that depends on the size of your monitor! the best way is to find somewhere that can print them fullsize. I have access to a 36"x24" printer at work & managed to get them printed in 2 go's (half & then reversed & then the other half) the ML plans are 36"x48" printed and are as accurate you will get. they'll probably cost you a few dollars to get printed. then trace the outline on to some mdf & use this a a template or stick it to your body blank & go from there - your choice. when I said about advice costing others, i meant learning from their mistakes - for example Tom (johnny foreigner) thought he had a perfectly stable neck black 'til he stressed it &.. bang.... kaputt! but he learnt from it. i'm not the most experienced or most prolific builder here - but I've made mistakes & also learned from others here - believe me - any mistakes you're likely to make will have already been made ten-fold. i have a friend who has a Dean endorsement (yes he gets them free) & he has an ML, a Razorback & a Vendetta - so I can say that the plans are as accurate as they come. ps.... I wouldn't take the binding as a reference - too much margin for error.... use the scale length or even the floyd rose saddle pitch - much more accurate way.

f**k yeah... it's another way of putting your "stamp" on it.... go for it! offer it as a (chargeable) option... you'd be surprised how many would want it! people can change necks/logos etc.... try getting that off the body - it's there for good.

You, sir, are amazing. I have two basic "thank you" packages. There's the "Once will suffice" package and then there's the "I'm saying thank you until you get pissed at me" package. Which would you prefer? i'm english & suitably restrained... so the "once will suffice" will do.... lol (stiff upper lip & all that shite!!) lets just say that if you're in the Orlando, Florida area this time next week - my plane lands in a coupla hours you can buy me a drink then...lol just stay on the right side of the folks here, post pics of your progress & you'll find that we can be the most amenable, friendly, & helpful folks you'll come across - just remember any advice given is free to you, but may have cost others learning it. please learn from it..... we're to help....mostly! Rob

email sent - my spam filter had grabbed them.... i've added the Razorback plans too - so you can take your pick and there's 5 hours difference between the UK & the east coast US - so it depends where you are in the US time zones.

he says that money's tight but even if he's getting everything given it's still false economy not to buy the book - I've bought both editions!! If he ruins the stuff he'll just have to buy more.... I built my 1st guitar without it & wished I'd had it - that guitar is still in the process of putting all the "wrongs" right. i've even offered him FREE ML plans but he doesn't seem to want them either.

i guess you don't need the plans either....

send me an email to "supplebanana at hotmail.co.uk" & i'll mail you some ML plans in pdf format. they use a Floyd Rose but you can still use the saddle postion to line up your T-O-M bridge. sb

love it!

but that's just wet with water... the original "moisture" is water, sap & any other "juices" in the tree.

nope.. its the way I do it too...

cool... spalted workmate!!

like they said...safety 1st.......lol how ya gonna build without them guys'n'gals?

+1

congrats!! :clap love the case too!!! (being a Brit!) would been better tho' had it been painted like this.......lol only one thing I see wrong with the guitar....erm... love the LOGO...not! it needs a "JF" on there ...somewhere....

nope... it's the resin that goes hard - the hardener is the catalyst/activator, too much of this will soften the resin.

and this one.... http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=472272

who? us? as if.......

maybe this should be in this thread.... http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=44050

yeah - i picked up a pair of mexican Fender (neck & middle) sc's for less than £15 each. they're always on ebay.

lol.... it was a serious answer!!! my personal opinion on woods is that out of the woods you have.. padauk - heavy & bright but good for neck sapelle - lighter but warmer neck/body sycamore - heavy & bright elm - no experience cedar of lebanon - no experience zebra - ok for a drop/carved top but could be really heavy for a body maybe too unstable to use as a neck unleass laminated wenge - heavy for a body but grat for a neck rosewood - heavy for a body but grat for a neck bubinga - same as above cocobolo - same as above cherry - good for a body maple - heavy/bright for a body but good for a neck mulberry - no experience walnut - good for both body & neck purpleheart - heavy for a body but good for a neck basically what i was trying to say was the more parts you keep like a strat then the less you will deviate away from the "Strat" sound. personally I would go for a walnut body & walnut & maple laminated or rosewood neck with a tremolo & 3 single coils out of the stuff you've mentioned.... but anyone else feel free to chime in...