Narcissism

Would sawing the guitar in half the long way, and then inserting the truss rod, then gluing it back together be considered a 1 piece?

Thought I'd update: I did a little more routing on the MDF body. I'm only doing as much as I can as long as the weather permits. This weekend would have been good, but I had a show to go to, which took priority. So now i'm back in VT, and its 2F out. Figures lol. I've decided to go with a Schaller 456 instead of the OFR. The one I have is messed up beyond repair, and i'd rather have something nice and professional without any dings in it from stage abuse. This new bridge looks pretty sweet. Its basically a TOM with fine tuners, so it should play well with the locking nut. I'll be getting the black one. In the off chance that those happen to not be fine tuners, than I'm going to just pop the bolts off the nut and call it a bridge. I'll build a neck one of these years lol.

I've been using Titebond II on my bass. It works just like Titebond I, only now i can eat off of my bass if i feel like it. I've been using Titebond I on my guitar, and as far as I can tell, the only difference is that Titebond II had a better initial tack.

The third picture down is the most right out of all 3 pictures. That bar is what keeps your strings at the correct angle before you tighten the nut. Other than that though, there's still the chance that you're going to have to retune just a smigit after you lock the nut down. So your bridge is going to require fine tuners in order to be tuned correctly after locking the nut down. As far as the nut placement, You can go either or, but I would prefer to do it the professional way and route out a spot for the nut so it sits flat like a normal nut. I'm not too sure if different nuts will change sound quality, as I've only used graphite and brass nuts. They were on different types of instruments though, so sound difference doesn't really show.

Isn't a sustainer a better value anyway? He kinda reminded me of Billy Mays, only he really didn't know enough about his product to sell it to his audience, and he didn't sign my tub of Oxi Clean. He also didn't have a catchy phrase to add to his product... Well, he didn't have a good one, anyway lol. "Sustain in your brain" and "Jet Frets!" aren't what I would consider to be catchy. He should get Billy Mays to advertise for him, and then hire someone to write his website.

I think gold or black knobs would look pretty good on that. Or maybe those knobs that are silver with a stone in the top of them... I forgot who they're from... something like... Q... it begines with or has a Q in it.

I'm going to have to say negative on that one. In order to use this, you need to light it on fire, and drip the flaming drop of melted p-tex(resin) onto the hole/scratch/dent/dimple. Fire + Finished guitars = bad IMHO You hold it far enough away that the flame isn't touching the guitar. Not that hard to figure out really. Plus with a poly finish not like a candles going to damage it unless your super careless. The flames when i've done it are really tiny. I've fixed a few cheapies this way when I needed something quick and easy that would look okay. Part of the reason I did this is many factory finishes are PTex resins. (per a friend who does a fair amount of work for Fender/Jackson/Charvel) I know he's already chosen a finishing option, but I really want to put my foot down on this. Step 1: Light P-Tex candle Step 2: hold p-tex over metal tray to catch unused flaming p-tex drip Step 3: Drip flaming p-tex into desired cavity Now, when you're dripping into the cavity its important not to hold it up too high. What'll happen if you hold it up too high is it'll splash, and leave unwanted "dots" which will melt into your finish. Chances are that while you're holding it up too high, you will not get the p-tex into the cavity, but more around the cavity than anything. In the end, you'll be doing a lot of extra work with your guitar because there will be a bunch of burnt dots all around where you're refinishing. Please DON'T use p-tex on your guitar. There are SEVERAL other ways to refinish/buff/fill/smooth out a few dents.

Hahaha, i'm guilty of noodling in my early gigs. I turn the volume off on my bass now and just do whatever I gotta get out of my system before the next song starts.

I think refinishing this would involve bonding paint molecules to metal molecules thereby creating a finish that cannot chip off unless you chip the material that the paint is molecularly bonded to. Science! ENERGY! SCIENCE! ENERGY! POWERTHIRST!

This member stopped posting around September... I think you can get in contact with him through youtube or his email or something, though. [edit] nvm, Avenger beat me to it lol

I live in a 3 apartment house, and I'm in the back on the 2nd floor. I use my porch whenever I have to use powertools due to the noise and sawdust. Other than that, I do everything on the kitchen floor. Everything on the porch is done on an old TV stand that we've turned into an outdoor coffee table. Its good for clamping, and it cleans easily. I store all my tools under the sink in the kitchen. If i need to paint, the University that's next to me allows me to use their studios.

Are you the Drak with the legendary finishing techniques that have been lost to closed photoswapping sites? If that's the case, Hi! I can't wait to learn from you! (not that i'm hiring you or anything.)

David King's a good guy! He sold me the pickups that i have in my old fretless bass, taught me how to wire it up, and even sent me a new pot when one of them started crackling. He also makes some interesting headless basses.

Check out the grain in this sexy MDF! Oooooooooooooh yeah! [disclaimer] the previous post was in every way possible meant to be a joke for lols. Any offence should brought to Narcissism through PM... On a serious note, I'm pretty proud of the Mahogany that I bought for my bass project!

I'm going to have to say negative on that one. In order to use this, you need to light it on fire, and drip the flaming drop of melted p-tex(resin) onto the hole/scratch/dent/dimple. Fire + Finished guitars = bad IMHO

That's very cool! It looks like a better version of the prestige models!

I'm sure if i were to build for other people, then I would use the first half of the payment to buy parts so that I can have them all in front of me. There are just a few things I won't do without the parts in front of me though. You know, obvious things, like placing the bridge, or tuners, or sizing the nut, or routing pickups (unless you use the same pickups every time).

Wow, this is turning out pretty sweet! I'm sure any ric owner would enjoy owing this! Especially since there's a chance of preventing the neck dive, and a better chance at proper intonation which rics are notorious for! I really want to see this when its finished!

I accidently did that spots just like that on a C02 race car. I just held the spray paint rattle can far away and shot it. Then I waved the car through the cloud and that's what came out. I don't recommend that, but that's how I did it.

I had SD Hot Rails for quite a while. I sold them for an EMG ZW set. I do miss it a lot. With my next guitar, i'm thinking of going with rails, too. I definately recommend the SD Hotrails.

Stevie Ray Vaughan would constantly mess with his knobs. You can see it in a lot of his live performances on youtube or on DVD. I normally keep my ibanez at 8 or 7ish... I'm not sure, I roll it all the way up and then roll it back to the first knuckle on my pinky and that normally gets me full treb with enough bass to not destroy people's brains while on stage.

Damn, If i ever wanted to know how to build a rhoads, here's the schematics! As far as the joint you have going on there, did you plane it and make sure it was completely flat with complete contact before you glued it together? It looks a little uneven on one end. I'm sure running it through the plainer will fix that, but I noticed, so i have to point it out. For the use of the band saw, I would see if you can squeek in some extra credit on a woodworking side project. My robotics teacher let me do that when I was in highschool. He added a point to my final grade for wiring up my pickups in my bass.

Here's my Skill one if anyone's interested... while we're comparing lol. It includes a canvas bag with no pockets or sleeves just like the rigid The dust guard is rounded and secured in two places, so its a lot less flimsy It has 2 LEDs that automatically turn on and off via sensor on the right grip The power button is a squeeze on the right grip and it has a lock on top of the handle so you can push down on it and it'll lock the squeeze switch. Just give it a quick squeeze as an emergency stop Plunge lever is pretty standard on the left hand side controlled by the middle or index fingers Nice wide base, and a lot beefier than the two mentioned above Variable speed control marked from 2-6 (smooth transition as opposed to notched) Has space for ballberrings so you can slide the base easier Plenty of room all over the base for modifications including: Base changability, edge guide attatchment areas, 1/2" collet adapter (included), flat side on the base for straightedge use, vacuum attachment, and a clamp space on the back so you can attach flat things... like radius jigs 2.25HP Runs on lightning and abortions... (not really)

Get yourself a toothbrush, some lemon oil and a soft cloth and let that baby's fingerboard shine! You can also gently whipe any fingerprints away with a slightly damp cloth. Other than that, definately preserve the natural beauty of those aged parts. Aged = authentic. I say gently clean her and love her for what she is

I personally don't see why it would need to be. I've had lots of pickup configurations including HSH, HSS, SSS and HHH, and i've never heard of reverse winding... I wired all of these on my own as well (with diagrams of course), and they've all come out the way I wanted them to.