Supernova9

At the moment the covers have 1/8" of flamed maple on top, not sure if this is too much or not so i may thin it down slighty. I was wondering whether it would affect the pickups strength, obviously its 1/8" extra distance between string and pickup but if i adjust the pickups close this shouldnt be a problem. I dont think the maple would affect the magnetic field because its not magnetic, so i dont think it should make a difference, but i am not sure how fields are affected by other objects. Any thoughts? The distance is the only relevant thing provided the obstacle is non-magnetic. mushy the shroom won GOTM November 04 (click for the thread) with a guitar with an embedded pickup, 1/4" away from the strings, so I don't think 1/8" covers would matter too much.

When will people realise there is no 'better' tone?!?!?!?!?!? People will tell you set necks have better tone than bolt ons. Obviously therefore Strats and Teles are worse than Les Pauls by default. Tell that to SRV, Clapton, or just about any decent player that's used Strats or Teles. They'll tell you nitro is better than poly as it is thinner. Blind test them. I doubt they could tell. Some people will tell you that semi-hollow guitars are better than solidbody guitars. The only way you're going to find out is to play both types and make your own judgement. Anyone that says any different is either lying or misguided. I know that's only semi on-topic, so to answer your question, yes you can use rout straight through the mahogany centre section and glue top and back on. In terms of guitar building, there are very few right or wrong answers, it's all about what you want, what you prefer, and how you like to do things. It's like wood selection. A guitar made out of solid maple will sound very different to a guitar made out of solid mahogany. Better or worse is down to opinion. Experiment, it's all a form of expression.

Myka's Duplicarver Thread with Myka's, Perry's and Erikbojerik's duplicarvers

You know, you need not even add the first fret back on. You could then have a shorter scale guitar (check the distance between the current fret first from the nut and the current 13th fret, multiply that by two and it would be the new scale length). Alternatively, you could indeed cut off the first fret and glue a second piece off, but then you'd have to be incredibly careful to get the length right, and also get a nice grain match so that it doesn't look off. Up to you, but maybe not for a first time, ey?

Erm, am I the only one not seeing the poll options? Oh, and the link from the image thread is broken

Here's Ron Thorn's CNC doing that:

I'll try and explain the difference in pictures. Chambered for weight: Though not that many holes, but you get the idea. Gibson used to just drill a few holes to get rid of some material. Chambered for sound: Maybe even with those top 2 chambers combined. That's the basics outlined, if you need more, verhoevenc is right, search for 'hollow body' or 'semi-hollow' or 'chambers'

Erm, surely that would be a backbow? If the top of the neck get's longer (as it's forced apart by the frets), sure that means it curves back?

If I remember rightly he bandsaws close to shape, routs most of the tenon, and then cuts the part where it meets the body with a handsaw, then cleans it up with a chisel. I wouldn't like to take a router to the shoulder parts of the tenon where it meets the body, that's almost begging for tear-out...

Well, for those slide switches - remember you've got to have a wiring channel away from them - how's that going to work so close to the edge? And that's not even counting the question of what on earth 6 slide switches are going to do for 3 pickups?!? Also, what actual benefit is a supported neck going to give you in return for being that much harder to construct? Don't try and run before you can walk.

I think that you're going to use it anyway......so go for it, and if it doesn't work, then hey, it's not like you're out much coin! Ps > Put up some photos....sad people like myself like seeing interesting pieces of wood

I think you shape the end of the fretboard - curve it to match the upper horns, as like a continuation of their curves?

Just because you combined 6 pics into one doesn't make it small enough for the picture rules...nice try though

Myka's original xlr8's extended Version Two different types, which do you fancy?

If you're looking for maple tops in the UK, check out www.craft-supplies.co.uk. Give them a call to find out what they've got in stock, but you'll be able to get 1/4" tops from them no problem.

You need to change the bulb in one of the lamps on your ceiling light Great finish to a great project!

But you will need to stack the heel though?

As a fellow Larrivee owner (I Love my LV-03E).... Please please please don't do that to it

Now Cocobolo, THAT's pretty

It's been a while since we've had some good and proper flamebait on the boards ps. Just put some metal bars through the middle, and bolt them at the ends, that'll hold it good. Make sure they're at the top of the board, that way, you can rout them out when you're done!

12 Pounds?!?!?!?!?! Poor guy, no matter how big his shoulders are.....