ScottR
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You've apparently got to register and log in to see those... Please do add some details when you get a chance. SR
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Our CNC was a Multi-Cam from right there in your neck of the woods and Enroute is what they usually sent (sold) with it. It can pretty much control all the XYZ motions you can dream up, and is considered one of the easier ones to train or learn. My guy (who does have a computer and graphics background) says he can teach someone to use it to set up and cut XYZ and contours in a day. What takes longer according to him is learning to set the paths (create the cut files?) to clean up the tool marks and leave a finished surface. We really always used a program called i-cut which took files created in illustrator and an on board camara to make contour cuts around printed graphics. We got enroute because we thought it would be cool to make 3-dimensional stuff. But nobody sold any 3-d stuff, so it was a stupid idea. SR
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Do either of you have access to a program called Enroute? That's what we modeled with here when we were still running a CNC? I don't know anything about it other than it was good and supposedly fairly easy to run. We sold it and the machine this spring...and the software was probably high dollar...which kind of defeats the purpose of build your own.....which may have turned this into a pointless question..... Oh well SR
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That is brilliant even if it wasn't covering up a hole. Next time you need to design one where the inlay carries off the edge of the top like this, on across the edge and continues on the back. SR
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I checked out his web site and to my unschooled eye and ear, his stuff is quite good. Oddly enough (or not) I liked the hot bridge and the vintage neck best. I wonder how close to pure Leslie West those are. SR
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Yeah......having only seeing the blue mock-up I was sure that was the way to go. But this particular shade of red, man it looks nice. That is definitely black cherry. Looking forward to see what you choose. SR
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Awesome neck! That roswood is sweet. SR
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Yes Its Buggered... But Its A F**cking John Birch!
ScottR replied to WezV's topic in In Progress and Finished Work
I like the blue burst as well. SR -
Exactly. I am very interested in those completely different answers from builders and players as well. I know very little about them other than I know I like the way they sound. I don't know why one sounds better or worse or different....well, I have a general understanding of what the various components are and that changes there will change the sound. But I don't know who thinks what sounds best or why. The ones that do and comment on them praise them very highly indeed though. Something to explore for sure. SR
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Looking at your rendering, I was going to suggest widening the horns at the base just a bit, they looked to uniform to me. Seeing your template, it looks like you did. SR
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Soooo, The Bare Knuckle Stands uncontested as the best sounding make of P-90? I must admit, I kind of expected one or two builders to chime in with an "I do". If BKs are the best, how do Seymour Duncan, DeMarzio and some of the others stack up, or what are they lacking? SR
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I agree that the tiger-eye colors would clash with purple heart--at least until the PH turns brown. Either tint your maple with colors that would go better with the PH or save the PH buckers for something else. You might test a superdark purple, sandback, royal purple, and then your turquoise-or a light blue or fucia for the lighter color. If you stay with tiger eye colors--which would be awesome--I'd go with a dark fretboard like IR or cocobolo or ebony. My two cents....and you did ask. SR
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Yeahhhhh, looking rich. SR
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I had to go back to your mock up to double check that the branches are going to be both inlay and F-hole. The carpet showing through threw me for a bit. This one's going to be niiiiice. SR
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What is it about these that make them your favorites and superior to Gibson's? The one's I'll be using will be used mostly for blues and will likely be played through a Blues Junior. SR
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I intend to use a pair a P-90s in my next build. It seems like everybody builds them. I read a thread from a few years ago on this subject....but I'm asking again anyway. I want to see what the current opionions are. Would the Gibsons be considered the standard....or the best? Thanks Scott
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That is an attractive piece of wood. What is it similar to? SR
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What are you going to do to the headstock? Love the Macassar BTW. SR
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Looking forward to more on this Mike. I think it's damn cool that you built the tool you're using to build the instrument. SR
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This won't provide a complete answer to your question, but there are some interesting points and responses. And although I did finsih the project, I never got around to putting up any of the Tru oil pics. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=44121 This was not intended to be a Z-poxy fill tru-oil finish test. Quarter and Resto can give you better advice on that. Quarter did state that he had no problems with the Tru-oil sticking to the Z-poxy. It certainly stuck to mine. SR
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I did a test project consisting of Z-poxy on one side and Tru Oil on the other and learned a couple of things. First I found that if you use a little less hardener than resin when mixing the Z-poxy you pretty much eliminate those soft or gummy patches and it give a longer pot time (the better for mixing thoroughly) and a harder more consistent cure. I teted that as a finish and polished a film layer up to a high gloss. On the other side I did a traditional Tru oil finish. In doing so I naturally got some Tru oil on the other side. It stuck to the highly plished and buffed Z-poxy like a champ. I had to sand it off and re-polish. SR
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I cleared that first guitar I did with automotive acrylic lacquer spray cans from Auto Zone. It acts a lot like nitro. One thing though, 6 months after polishing it up it was still shrinking. I probably put too much on, but it's something to keep an eye out for. SR
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Did you get your finish versus dye issue ironed out? I'm looking forward to seeing that turquiose under some clear. SR
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If you wanted to glue the crack, I'd go with original titebond so you can clean up and finish with no problems. I thought you were worried about that though, so I didn't suggest it. Another option would be to wick in some thin CA from the back while it's clamped. SR
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Because of the angle that may close up a bit when you glue those two pieces together. Then glueing it to the body wood should keep it from growing as the entire back surface would be a glue join. Then you could use your chosen finish to fill whatever gap remains. Paint it into the crack with a fine tip brush repeatedly until it stands proud after comepletely curing. Then level sand it while finish sanding the surface and finish normally from there. SR
