MiKro

It's that time of year in Dallas for the 30th annual Guitar show. Link Anyone going to be there? I have not missed one for over 15 years. PM me if you are going and when. I would like to meet some PG members if possible. Mike

UHHH!!! Any color that suits you? I mean really, your asking a question that is about your guitar, not anyone elses???? You took the time to sand it. So now you have no clue what to do with it, what were you thinking? Let's see!! Follow the masses and you are KEWL!!!! Seriously, think for yourself and find something you want, not what others think. Then when you decide and are not sure how, then ask a quesions after reading some tutorials and searches on finishing. MK

While from a production standpoint powertools are the CATS MEOW, no matter whether your building a guitar , custom cabinets , or anything with wood. Good hand tools just make you feel good. It's a symbios ( if thats a word) that makes you feel the wood and what it is capable of being and what you want it to do. Enjoy your simple but complex work and when you can enjoy the pleasure of tools by Lie Neilson and other higher end planes beyond Stanley. Or get the satisfaction of making your own , using good plane irons and save your self the cost of the body from those on the highend list. You will really understand that even the plainest of scrapers will make all the difference. Glad to see someone using the old art ,as I do Use the newer tools for many reasons, going back to basics is very very satisfiying. MK

Haven't used Minwax in years. (crap in my opinion) But if it is still oil based, as they were years ago, then Lacquer will not adhere as you would like it too!!!!!! IF YOU GET MY DRIFT??? Use a good water based stain , then almost anything will work for a clear coat, Just my .02cents MK

If it is poly finish then only poly will work over it. So be careful that you don't use shellac, oil based or lacquer.. UNless you sand to wood!!!! Just my .02cents. MK

And what made you think that that upside down would work? Think about it ? If you adjust the rod, it will bow backwards to what it was designed for?????(I'm not really sold on the hotrod anyways when they suggest using silcone to install it) Not sure I understand your thought process on this one???????? Can you make me understand????????? Maybe I'm missing something here???? Just asking? MK Well, I thought, "hmmm, it's not gonna work for me right side up because I don't like where the adjustment access is gonna be. Wonder if I can use it upside-down?" Then I came here and did a search and found that it had worked for several people, so I decided to try it. I figured if it worked for Perry, Mattia and Wez, it'd work for me. (Here's the thread: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=28524 ) That's cool, Just wanted the understand the thought process and make sure you did as well!!!!! Thanks, MK

And what made you think that that upside down would work? Think about it ? If you adjust the rod, it will bow backwards to what it was designed for?????(I'm not really sold on the hotrod anyways when they suggest using silcone to install it) Not sure I understand your thought process on this one???????? Can you make me understand????????? Maybe I'm missing something here???? Just asking? MK

Devon, I don't think I can expand on what Rich has suggested. So please read what you can, research and learn , then your questions will be more thought out and easier to answer as your new found knowledge will allow you to understand. Many of those here are not here to spoon feed the masses. We will help those that will take the time to help themselves and learn. Then when they have questions they will understand the answer. I hope you understand my meaning? I'm not trying to be an A$$, just every year we get a new influx of newbies during springbreak and thousands of questions that are loaded and the new (ME GENERATION) wants everything done for them or spoon fed, they just won't take the time to learn. Also many Newbies add advice that's just plain wrong, so take what you read from some with a grain of salt. I have built 1 guitar so far and 3 on the work bench at this time, so I don't know that much about certain things, but I have worked with wood for over 30 yrs and my knowledge of that has helped me with making a guitar and hopefully helped others when asked about that subject, whereas I also read, read, read and ask questions after I have read and still not sure.. So you see many of us have knowledge that applies in some way and makes this the best damn forum out there. I am also very knowledgeable with electronics. Everyone, including yourself can and will be an asset here if they or you will take the steps to learn and add your individual knowledge as well. Peace and God Bless to you, MK

Please if you will,don,t use the word retarded flippantly.Thanks Rich .Sorry about the theft Mr Hiscock we will be ever vigilant +1 Wood, And Melvyn, I'll let you know if I see or come across anything as well. MIke

Okay I'll buy that!!! Thanks Jon! BTW things here are going better than expected!!! Just an FYI for you. MK

First, let me say " have you read Melvyn Hiscocks book?" Next, the question you ask is a very loaded question. What guitar, What bridge? What adjustments have you made and to what? Do you have a neck jig to make these adjustments? IF not, then are they done under string tension? There are so many variables, it is very hard to really answer the question without ALL of the facts. So please expand our knowledge of what you have done and to what, THEN maybe someone will be able to help you. Thanks, Mike

CHris and Jon as well, I'm not sure I understand the reason for following the taper other than the distance between the rods? Other than a slight offset ( due to taper) pressure on the neck, it is a lateral force against the the grain.. Perpendicula r to the grain would be the best choice????? Meaning inline and side by side would be the choice? So could you expand on this ??????????????? Thanks Mike?????? Just I would like like to understand this with more than just preference?

So Melvyn, You cut to the Mustard, LOL:)))) Nice to hear from ya. MK

Well I have ben having my dad sharpening it because he is a very avid knife collector and he has ben using a wetstone. What type of wood? what angle is it being sharpened to and define sharp? what depth of cut are you setting it at? and how? All of these things determine whether you get chatter/chipout or nice curls. Many variables here. A well tuned Spokeshave wil yeild great results, one that's not will result in frustration and damaged wood. May I suugest you look into some woodworking websites/books for more detail on the nuances of hand tools and tuneing them to suit the job the at hand. website? anotherwebsite Scary sharp These may help. mk

My apologies, had a bad day. Also didn't mean to double post. but it only comes paperback. Try amazon as others have stated. My son lives in Canada and purchases from them all the time. Have a nice day. Mike

It sounds like you are hitting end grain. First off if that is the case, then take shallower cuts and use a climb cut. This is the opposite direction than recommended but they are very usefull when done correctly. They can be dangerous though. I would recommend reading up on it on some of the woodworking websites if you are not used to doing it ( they can become tricky at times). Now if the wood is of highly figured grain. This makes it even more difficult. I would suggest getting close with a rabbet bit using an oversize bearing, then using a spiral cut with either a collar or bearing and climb cutting again. Another tip is to slow the speed down and also your feed rate when encoutering endgrain sometimes this helps ( most will say to speed it up) Just my .02 cents Mike

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Dave It's nice to know that I'm not alone on the 2 prong. Unfortunately, many don't realize the difference it makes on some equipment. Mike

Billy, does this happen everywhere you play your guitar?. What I mean is, if you only play at home and this is happening, then the problem may not be the guitar. My home was built in the early 60s and has no ground to most of the outlets just a neutral and a hot(common),(except the kitchen and bathrooms) That was electrical code back then. Now back to the problem. I get the same the thing on many circuits in my home with humbuckers. because I become the ground the hum goes away. I hope this makes sense. Just another out of the box look at things. LOL:))) MK

Here's a simple tutorial for multimeters not hard to understand. but may help you. Note this comapny is closed but the website is still up for awhile. basic multimeter? i mean real basic LOL:)) hope it helps you MK

2 position off/on micro switch will work

Very Nice Chris, I think it looks Kick a$$. Mike

First off a 9vbattery will fry an LED unless you add resistance. Try this tutorial on LEDs LINK This may help you with where you are going. MK

The 10% is from march 15th until the end of the month in Texas. mk