MiKro

Joseph, That's a subjective question. LOL:)))) It depends on the types of wood, also how you use the bit ( meaning take shallow passes vs. deeper) The type of steel, HSS vs carbide. all these things will determine the lifespan of a particular bit. also the unexpected piece of metal ( staple, nail, brad, lead) that somehow shows up every bluemoon, they play havoc with a bit. Storing them in a rack with holes or something similar works fine. Keep them from rolling around in a drawer and banging against each other )) If they get pitch or build up on them use oven spray or WD40 to remove it, then clean with mineral spirits and store. I'm sure others have there methods also but that's some of mine. See ya later. Mike K edited to add: I noticed that you refered to FWW mag. try going to there website and get on the knots forum. alot of good info there and there is a good thread going on now about router bits.

Let's see , I use CMTs, also Whiteside, some are from Rockler, I try and get the pattern bits I use from woodcraft on there $5.00 weekly specials. Eagle america has some good bits also. ( eagleamerica.com ) also try routerbits.com CMTs I find are usually the best but expensive, I like Whitesides also. But most I have listed have good bits that will serve the purpose. Hope that helps? MK

Have you tried calling Carvin? 800 854 2235 mk

Joseph, Get with me before you get any wood, I have a great stash that you might want to look through while we drink a brew. Tops, body blanks, fretboards, neck blanks. I'm sure we can come up with what you need for your build. PM me or email when you want to get together. Mike

I would say something but it would not be PC . LOL:))) Interesting thread though! mk

heres the translation http://www.mikrovisions.com/hold/translated.jpg mk

Keldog, do you have any pics from the side? Showing the crack in relation to the fretboard? From what I saw it appears to be between the nut and first fret? But it's hard to tell. I would be more than happy to give a try if you would like to ship it to me. Let me know what I can do to help if I can. Mike

Like Mattia said, any chance on pictures? Also where are you located? No info filled out as to your location? There might be someone close that can help with some hands on to guide you in this repair. If you're in the Dallas TX area I would be glad to look at it and help. MK

What kit is it? square or round neck? Who makes it? a little more info might help . Try this site and see if you can find something that will help. http://www.folkofthewood.com/page671.htm MK

The really cool thing about the micro-fret nut was it was adjustable up or down , forward and back and sideways and was a roller nut. It was an ingenious design but was also very finicky. Would work for almost any radius. I just had surgery on my leg so I'm not real mobile so may be a day or 2 before I can find a pic. MK

I purchased a Microfrets signature new in 1968 for $295.00. double cutaway. It was bright red. Very light weight guitar. It was made of a laminated 2 piece type of fiberglass. The intonation was awesome. I sold it in 1975 as well as my selling my 69 strat. Sure wish I had those guitars now. Now Paul Rose has brought the company back to life. The nut can be purchased from them for $125.00 as a replacement for there guitars. I'll see if I can find a picture of mine and scan it. It was really ahead of it's time and there original designs were more for the C&W and Jazz vs R&R. Mike

Thanks TR, I'll try and keep up the docs on this one. MK

Well all, I finally got to get some more work done this project. The Ash body I started with developed a crack in the area of the neck pocket so I pulled out some sapele and started a new body. Got the neck pocket routed and the neck tenon fitted, glued up the bookmatched top halves and got then sanded. Going to the Guitar show tomorrow so I won't get any more done this weekend and having surgery on Monday, so next week looks to be shot to H Check out the progress here. http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/firstbuild.html Thanks for everyones help and support. Mike

It's some plastic from a corrugated roof LOL:) Really though anything that has some flex to it will work since it clamps in. That piece is sorta short but it works. Just need to apply even pressure to the wood and fence so that all you have to worry about is feed rate. I'll try and make a set of plans for it to add to the tools and jigs section. May take a while as I'm very busy right now buit I'll try. MK They are nice aren't they LOL:))))) I use the 3/16 10tpi for tight work, 1/4" 10 tpi for larger curves and the 1/2" 3 tpi for resaw. They seem to last about 4 to 1 against other blades. Here's the body blank I cut out tonight. a nice piece of Sapele, this is the bottom your looking at. http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/tools/rufbodybottom.JPG MK

Here's some pics of my fence and feather board. Note the blade is not what I use for resawing. This was for photos only for your question as I had just setup to cut out a body blank. http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/tools/resaw1.JPG http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/tools/resaw2.JPG http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/tools/resaw3.JPG Hope this helps Mike

I have the Grizzly Ultimate 14" with riser block. It resaws fine using the correct blade. I have found that the Timberwolf 1/2" 3 tpi works best in this saw. I tried the 3/4" and it just doesn't have enough power to use it correctly. The fence that comes with the it needs to have a riser added. I'll try and post some pics of my fence and feather board that I use when I resaw. Again I would not recommend using the 3/4" blade. Do a search on this at the Knots forum at http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/index.aspx? Most will tell you to use the 1/2" Timber wolf. Also the blade that comes with the Grizzly is a POS. It's more there for shipping that anything. Mike

1) No 2) Wood choice 3) Pickups choice and variety in terms of styles, function, brands, etc. 4) No 5) No Comment

what type glue didyou use? It looks like squeeze out at the scarf joint. may be very small amout dpending on your glue method. Try and slowly place a chisel from the side of the scarf to lift the piece. Depending on the glue maybe ass heat from a heat gun. Do this ASAP. as the longer it sits the better the bond. If it appears to start tearing ay wood from the headstock STOP!!!!!! then set up a jig and remove witha router and final sand. MK

Check on MIMFs site they have a set of plans called Sargent duplicator. It's in PDF format and free it's in the archive library. edited to add: It's in the Instrument plans section, subsection is tool plans and pictures. Mike

The kits are now sold by Beard Guitars as he is the one that provided them to Stewmac. http://www.beardguitars.com/index.html another gd site for Dobro info is at http://www.folkofthewood.com/ Hope this helps. Mike

Welcome Vinny, looking forward to watching you get your feet wet. There's always plenty of help here at PG, and the search function is always a great place to start LOL:))))) Again Welcome aboard!!! Mike

Always test your new Template and Pattern Router bits on scrap. Many times they will over cut beyond the bearing. then you will need to add packing tape to your templates to compensate for this. Safety Tip: Check the lock collar and make sure the set screw is tight before using. Recently I have found the wrong size bearings on new bits from CMT. This has happened twice now in the past 3 weeks. One was a 1/4" bit and they had a 5/16" bearing. The other 1/2" bit with a 7/16" bearing. So check your tools before wasting that once in a lifetime piece of wood and be safe. Mike

That's what I was hoping to hear thanx. I just put in one for now to test my wiring with coil tap 1st. oops! sorry, missed the low E only LOL:))) mk

What strings were on it and how low was the action? What did you replace with? I have had similar problems after changing from say 12s to 10s or 9s when my action was really low. the nut is cut to deep and Buzz city somewhere on the fretboard. So without seeing it I can't give you an answer but It sounds like you changed sizes of strings and it is not setup for them. Just my humble opinion. MK

.....Snip...... Mattia, not to pick nits, but if you really want a good glue joint you should put glue on both surfaces. This way both surfaces are at the equal with each other. Yes, applying glue to one surface will work in most cases but if the strongest joint is to be accomplished for most types of glue, then both surfaces should have it applied. I agree that too much glue can and may weaken a joint if too much clamping pressure is applied, also not enough glue is a concern. Most people just pour it on and clamp away. I suggest that eveyone READ THE FINE PRINT on the glue they are using. Also maybe do some research on the manufactors website. Some real insite on the uses and proper methods of glueing. May even save some $ in the long run. Again I'm not trying to slam you, just trying to educate anyone that will listen and hopefully help and give everyone the chance for less possible failure when it counts. Sincerely, Mike K