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Devon Headen

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Everything posted by Devon Headen

  1. And make sure it'll look right with the center lam being so wide. If you're three piecing it, there won't be much at all of the outside laminates at the nut. As long as it looks fine to you go for it.
  2. On a flatsawn neck, I'd go for a scarf. It doesn't look quite as good, but with a good glue joint, it is stronger. I don't really see how any other way of looking at it makes sense. The grain will be running out right where a lot of string pull stress, and the truss rod adjustment nut are. With a headstock veneer (or two!) that problem is seriously diminished, though.
  3. I use photshop for the body and headstock outline, print, and draw it all on paper. CAD would probably better if that's your thing, I've just never taken the time to learn it. I don't actually calculate the neck angle, I just set it for each individual guitar with straightedges on the fretboard. There's less room for error for me that way.
  4. What are the dimensions on those?
  5. Guitarmaking is a good book, but not for solidbodies. I'd definitely go for the Melvyn Hiscock book.
  6. Looking pretty good but I noticed a couple've things. First off, like you said, next time you might want to scale up the headstock a little bit. It looks like you still need to carve a bit of a recess so that you can adjust the truss rod without banging into the sides of the channel. Everyone likes different kinds of carves, but I think that you should make the carve go all the way up to the bridge. It's more of a gradual graceful curve than what you've done and it also gives some variety all the way around the body. All in all it's one of the few projects I've ever been really excited to see updates about!
  7. Or at least wait for it to stop moving before you do anything with it. Unless it's super figured, I'd use to roast some weiners this summer. That's some pretty severe warp for a piece that size though, it's probably not going to even be salvagable by the time it's through shifting around.
  8. Not me, the router never even touches my neck.
  9. I seem to do it different than most here. First I lay out the fretboard, minus the width of the binding, directly on the wood. Then I use a tablesaw jig to trim the fretboard down. Then I bind the fretboard and glue it onto the neck. I don't like my chances at tearout taking a router to a slotted board. This approach just makes the most sense to me. I tried it a different way on my first guitar, and the width just wasn't accurate to my plans. YMMV. EDIT: I rough taper the neck before gluing the fretboard on, then just trim it to the fretboard with a plane.
  10. Spray cans. It's just really hard to get a good finish with brushing lacquer. I'm not saying it can't be done, it's just more difficult.
  11. Just ask him for a gander at the stuff. If you like it go for it. If there's much birdseye in the wood definitely go for it.
  12. I'd just wait for the answer if I was you. There's no way to know for sure until he tells you.
  13. It doesn't need to stick to the metal, though. If it's tight enough you shouldn't NEED to pack the rod anyway, but I don't see why Hot glue isn't just as good as silicon.
  14. How bout you figure out what you're gonna do before buying anything. You need to know exactly what you're gonnd do before plunking down your hard earned cash.
  15. I'm not sure how advanced you're talking, but I'm interested. I know quite a bit of theory, but it'll be interesting to see a new take on it all. I say if you feel up to it, go for it.
  16. Yeah, mark on the side that will be facing the neck (opposite side from the slots...My camera died a couple weeks ago, and I forgot, so I'm afraid I can't get a pic right now. It's REALLY simple, though. No reason to make it more complicated since I'm not using templates.
  17. Why did you buy the guitar if you hate it so much? Sell the guitar and get or build what you want. Or if Frank was serious just trade with him. Then everyone's happy.
  18. I've tried bondo, and it just doesn't work well for filling grain. Maybe if you thinned it it would do better. Not sure what solvent you'd use, though. I filled the grain on an ash body 5 or 6 times with bondo, and it just wouldn't pack down in the grain.
  19. Consider this encouragement
  20. Very classy...Just yesterday I was browsing another forum where someone else brought up that guitar, and your client said he was just about to go pick it up. Very original and it looks good, that's a tall order to fill, but you guys nailed it.
  21. Welcome back Lex, it'll be nice to see what you've been up to
  22. Look for a trophy engraving place near you. I imagine every town has one. They'll do it for you.
  23. Did you get all those pesky tiny itty bitty scratches out? I have to remind myself not to be ****, because with dark finishes no matter what I do, there are still a few itty bitty scratches. I know there will be worse scratches on it after 5 minutes of playing it, but I still want it to be perfect. I sand to 2000, swirl remove like a freakin lunatic, then use the imperial hand glaze pretty heavily. They just don't go away. They're only visible at a certain angle, but I know it's there and it's worrisome as a wet booger.
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