SwedishLuthier

No problems with Vol/tone. You will however experience a little offset in the dial for the tone, meaning you have to turn the knob a little before the tone cap kick in

I have made pickups with Quick connectors: pretty much like the EMGs. It wasn’t much more work to wound, but it were for a Tele, and you don’t swap a Teles bridge pup just like that. Not completely well thought out… But for a Strat style guitar I think that it could be possible to make a complete pick guard with switching and all, and a quick connector to the output jack. If you also find a way to snap the pick guard in and out I think it would be an interesting instrument.

A note on those particular pots (just finished a guitar with two of those wired for volume/tone): If you would like to use the chassis for earth, you must sand away the yellow surface on the pots back. Impossible to solder if you don’t, and all you will end up with is melted plastics

Yeah,you can call me cheap. Thats my middle name. The thing is that there are no maximum storin time for opened cans in the product description. Nevermind, I guess that this can's out the window after this project.

4hp! Thats about twise the power of mine, so that why that method is out of question for me And, Yeah. I should upgrade the drill press, but that goes for a lot of stuff in my shop so the list is long

GTR1 had mahogany body, maple top and maple neck. I used Stew Mac water based grain filler on that GTR2 (or bas) had a beech body, colour coats on theh body and head, oil finish maple neck and no grain filler. No sealer on any. Spraying conditions were the same. Gtr2 were done three months ago, and perfectly fine, hard finish. I have let the finish set for almost two weeks before buffing. Curing time for the finish is 150 hours according to the instructions, so that should be OK. The can is quite old. I've had it or almost two years (a lot of other things (lice life itself) that have been distracting me from the important thing (like building guitars)). GTR1 was finished like 1.5 years ago. The age of the lacquer is my main concern. I guess I’ll have to wait to see what Stew Mac says about that.

I just finished a guitar with StewMacs Colour Tone water based finish. It’s the third guitar I finish from the same can. Now my question. The finish on this third guitar doesn’t get near as hard as the other two! Could it be that the colour tone has gone old? I cannot find any info on shelf storage time on the original label, that I actually still got. Anyone had similar problems? I have asked the same thing to StewMac, but I will most likely not get an answer until next week… BTW its a mahogany body with maple top and mahogany neck.

A variaton on the router bit in dripp press theme: use the rounded bit with bearings in your ordinary router before you contour the body. Works perfekt and without the need for a realy powerful drill press. The guys seemed to forget to mention THAT part

Short for Cyano Acrylate

If I remember correctly the Moore guitars isn’t carved, but just have a “two dimensional” curve across the body. If so, you can try this. Carefully heat one side of the veneer with a hairdryer along the “bending line”. The veneer will bend towards the warmer side. Then there will be much less risk for cracks when clamping it down to the body. I would also use thin strips of MDF (3-5mm, or masonite, or anything else that you find suitable) across the bend to even out/spread the clamping pressure.

26 1/1” in’t that much longer then 25 ½ so it's definitely worth a shot. Compared to the Buzz Feiten system, this is reversible. I think that it might work. You may have to extend the adjustment holes a bit to create some extra movement. At worst you just substitute it with a standard nut A quick tip: Shorten the adjustment screws a bit, or drill small holes for the screws into the nut seat (is it called that?). Some of the screws I got have been a bit tall

Don’t mean to hijack the thread, but I cannot resist this: Why not an electric ukulele? I've build this for my brothers 30th birthday. Its a mahogany thinline body, spruce top, mahogany neck and rosewood fret board.

I haven’t used it on a baritone guitar, but on a few other scales. The intonation on the first frets improved but not to the point of being perfect. My guess is that the intonation on a baritone will improve some (or much), but not as much as on a “standard” scale. On my guitars I have moved the nut about 1/3 of the travel on a 24 ¼” scale guitar, slightly more on a 25” scale guitar and a little bit more that 2/3 on a 25 1/2 “ guitar. What scale length are you having/planning on? If it is only slightly longer than 25 ½” it might work. If much longer you will have to extend the holes a bit. NEVERTHELESS an Earvana nut will improve the intonation on the first few frets. ALL systems that shorten the distance between the nut and the first fret (not applicable on 0-fret guitars) will improve your intonation. This is most noticeable on guitars with high nuts, like a guitar set up for combined slide/standard playing. With a higher nut you will need to compensate (move the nut) more. What Earvana also says is that their intonation system will remove ALL intonation problem when playing open cords. That is simply not true. I have noticed a better intonation on open F G and C, but slightly worse on D (standard tuning). Over all I am nevertheless much more satisfied with the Earvana guitars, than the standard ones. Remember that all intonation issues, and our complete scale system developed originally by Pythagoras like 2000 years ago, is all approximations.

No. It is almost impossible to cut exactly the right dimensions for your binding. Standard way of doing it is to install the binding, scrape (or sand) the binding flush with the wood and then dye. If your wood was already dyed it would be ruined when scraping the binding flush to the wood. And yeas, you will need quite a lot of clear to make up for the layers you scrape on, especially if you have sprayed a lot of layers for the paint to be opaque.

I haven’t seen that particular video, but I think I know what goes on. I suppose that the guitar is painted with an opaque or at least tinted lacquer. If so, the paint will cover or obscure the binding, and the whole idea of a binding for decorative purpose is ruined. This is how I do it. I shoot a thin layer of paint and wait until the paint it dry to the touch but not very hard. I use a razor blade for scraper. I give the blade a "hook" by running it at an angle against a screwdriver or something similar. I hold it between my thumb and index finger and use my thumb nail as a depth guide. Using light touch, and paying attention to not removing to much I crape away the paint. If needed, I shoot a new layer of paint and repeat the above. NEVER shoot all layers of pain before scraping. The paint will be too hard, and chipping of the paint WILL occur (been there, done that). Please note that if you spray on several layers of paint before the clear, you will have to spray a lot of clear, sand back lightly, spray more and so on to be able to get a smooth surface.

Jup! Nice, even, shiny frets with a chipped fret board

Check the height adjustment screws for tightness. It one of them is loos, and the saddle lean slightly against the next one (if the saddles are tight together), the screw will not reach the bridge plate and can buzz. I just had that on one of my teles.

I like this one the best. It looks well balanced and MEAN. Combine it with the upper horn of our latest design and I would say that its a pointy guitar that even I would like. Go for it ans show us some "in progress" pics.

This guy does it all :http://www.aresguitar.se/ Ive done oaks necks. Works fine. Very nice guitar BTW. I noticed the VERY long neck pocket, but the pick guard will cover it and the pickups dont seem to get in the way, so why not.

VERY metal! Pointy guitars are not my taste, but I like a few things, like the upper horn design. It is actually possible to attach the strap button on the “down side” of the horn, instead of the back. I’ve done it and it works fine. But be ware, it will wear a little on the strap and on the finish. Some suggestions: Make the lower body curve like the upper like on the body of a violin. That way the body will be more symmetrical (I think it would gain from that), and it might be easier to sit down with the guitar. I would shorten the tails (end horns?) a little. I think it would be a better look that way. Looks like A LOOT of wood on the guitar. It will be very heavy. Keep that in mind when drawing a full scale plan. Another argument for slightly shorter tails As the other ones I strongly suggest drawing this full scale. It will actually make the guitar look completely different.

But it tends to be very hard to clean out the higher fret slots before the glue dries. At least if you’re using titebond, epoxy or other thick glues. You have to use very thin strips of tape high up on the fret board. This jig gives you full access along the whole length. I'll have to look for tape like that. Another method I have thought about is to cover the whole jig with some Teflon boards, like a chopping board from the kitchen store. But then I would have to build a new jig and this works good enough for me as it is.

It took me like 1 1/2 hour to make, and has saved me a lot of time and head ache, so I think that it was well invested time That’s pretty much what this jig does too. But I prefer to be able to adjust the clamping pressure by the twist of a knob (or several) instead of banging (OK, tapping) on the edge of the fret board to create clamping force

A PRS copy with a personal touch (well not a complete copy, but you guys all can see were I got inspired) It’s a carved, quilted maple topped mahogany body, mahogany/maple laminated neck, rosewood fret board with rosewood bindings and aluminium frets markers visibly both from above and from the sides. The hardware is GOTOH and the pickups are genuine Gibson P90s. The nut is an Earvana compensated nut. It’s like a “poor mans Buzz Feiten”. It works quite good, but like all intonation issues it’s a compromise, but it’s better than a standard nut IMHO. Front view Body detail Head detail Side view of fret markers

I almost always bound my fret boards. Even when I make a Fender style fretboard, I split two small strips from the fretboard, taper the remains, cut the fret slots and glue the strips back. I find it much easier to refret bound fret boards and I think that the appearance is much neater without the fret slots visible from the side. Especially in this case, whit an almost invisible binding made from the same board as the rest of the fret board. Anyway I got tired of the problems with gluing bindings to the edge of a tapered fret board, so I made up this jig: http://photobucket.com/albums/b162/Swedish...tboardjigg1.jpg It’s quite primitive, but it’s only a prototype. The problem is that the prototype works so good that I’ve never got around making a better one… It’s a scrap wood base with a hard wood edge. I drilled some holes directly into the hardwood edge and threaded the wood to accept machine screws. The holes are positioned so they protrude directly above the base when engaged. I used threaded rod and made some (very rude) handles out of plywood to be able to turn the screws. I placed two pieces of strait oak into the jig, “resting” against the screws to spread the clamping power. And on top of all this I placed a piece of plexi to hold down the fret board. This is how I use the jig: 1 Adjust the inner oak strip to the fret board taper 2 Place waxed paper in the jig. 3 Apply glue on one edge of the fret board 4 Slide the fret board into the jig (glue side out) 5 Adjust the outer oak strip so that is a few mm away from the fret board. 6 Insert the binding 7 Tighten the screws some 8 Adjust the placement of the binding if it slips some by pushing down from above 9 Final tightening of the screws With the binding clamped you still have full access to the joint and it is no problem to use a tool to clean out the fret slots Anyone else made a jig like this, or has a better way of doing this job? PLS share

Tone Pros informed me that it is GOTOH that manufactures their locking studs and bushings!!!