Bingo328

That bottle caps idea is a pretty sweet one. Any chance your a MacGuyver fan?

When was the last time you checked your truss rod adjustment. Difference in seasons will make the neck act differently. Same deal if its been put through extreme temperature or moisture changes. Check out the tutorials on the main page for the guitar set-up and see if that helps. Make sure to check out the neck to and make sure everythings O.K. If the truss rod adjustment is real tight but the action is still not better, don't force it, you'll ruin the neck and/or the rod.......Not that I would know from experience or anything

So this might be a weird request but does anyone know where to get parts for boss pedals. I need the little metal thumb screw that holds switch cover down. I've tried finding a replacement at hardware stores with no luck. Right now I'm using a nail but it slips out fairly often and the battery comes flying out. Thanks Scott

Cool, thanks for the link. It was just what I was looking for. Any pics of the ones you made? Scott

I recently got a Marshall 2x12 combo amp and was thinking about either purchasing or making a 2x12 extension cab to go with it. Has anyone here ever built their own cabinet (either 4x12 or 2x12) or have any plans for one. Does anyone else have any interest in building cabs? might make a good topic if enough people are interested! Scott

Your bridge should be fine where it is since the relationship between it and the guitar nut won't move. With the neck profile just make sure you let enogh thickness so it will be stable and the truss rod doesn't poke through or anything crazy like that. Go to the www.warmoth.com and www.usacustomguitars.com and check their neck section. You can find neck profiles of many common necks including the wizard. These could be prbably be used as templates if you scale them correctly. Scott

Finally another Lefty!! Anyway, I'm pretty sure Ibanez Wizard and Jackson necks both use a 16" radius so if you like that go with it. With 24 fret necks the extra frets go towards the bridge, so the biggest problem would be the neck pickup placement. Hope this helps. Scott

I think it's a pretty cool design so far. Only thing I might suggest is a little more curve on the front of the horns. It might give it a little more of a PRS type look. It's up to you whether thats good or bad. Since your working on a CAD program making changes is a lot easier than had drawing. I would make a copy of what you have now, and change a few minor things and then compare. It will be a lot easier to tell what you like and what you don't. BTW, I think the headstock is pretty sweet, although it looks a lot like the Warmoth shape headstocks, check their site. The Brian Moore idea with a little scoop taken out would look killer. Scott

Brian can the PRS type kit come in kefthanded, Thanks Scott

Hey thanks for all the tips guys. Is grain filler necessary if I'm using a sanding sealer? the guitar will be painted a solid color so I could care less about the color of filler, sealer, etc. BTW it is an OLD diaper but don't worry, it was washed before I started out LOL

If its not long enough to cover the entire body you could bookmatch two like normal and the center them on the body when you glue. After that all you would have to do is sand them in till they are flush on the edges and spray a burst around the guitar. No one except you and us would ever know. Just a thought.

So I'm trying to finish up a body and I'm beginning to use the grain filler. It's not going as well as I hoped. The body is Ash, I sanded everything down to 240 and began to fill. I had been using elmers wood filler and rubbing it across the grain with an old diaper. The stuff is about the consistancy of toothpaste. So far I've used 3/4 of a tube on the front alone and it's still not completely filled. What am I doing wrong? When I'm done should I not be able to feel the grain at all? Also I've ran into a problem sanding that the sapwood??? is a lot harder than the other wood on the guitar and when I sand I seem to get these waves from the diffenerent wood densities. I've used a flat power sander mostly so far, should I use a block of wood or something to get rid of these? Thanks in advance for all your help. Scott

Thats a sweet looking guitar. Any advice or tips on doing it. I've been looking for an old strat body to try it on.

Based on quality and playability, my vote would be either Ernie Ball MM or ESP. Just my 2 cents

Warmoth offers gold colored fretwire that is made with a brass alloy. According to them the brass only offers color and doesn't make it wear any quicker. If you could find some thats not pure brass wear shouldn't be a problem

What type of CAD tips are you wanting to know. I could probably help you out. Scott

Cool thats a good idea using the CAD drawings as templates. Being a drafer you'd think that would have been my first try. thanks LGM

I get what LGM is saying about following the lines raduis of the FB, but how do you get accurate scribe lines on the board then. The inlay piece won't sit flat enough to trace around will it

So just so I understand this. LGM, you make the route the same radius as your fretboard and just bend the inlay when you glue it in? How do you go about scribing your lines on the FB since it is already rounded and your trying to follow a straight piece of inlay. I'm running into this situation and have also wanted to know if it is pssible.

Alex is exactly right about needing a front view of the guitar. if it is at a slight angle the part of the pic closer to you will end up bigger in your drawing. As long as you scale up by a known measurement you should be fine. One thing I think works best is to import your pic into cad first and don't scale it up. the more you try to change the pic and scale it up the easier it is to get things out of proportion if your not careful. my advice would be to draw everything in CAD the first time as accurately as possible, scale it up by a know dimension, then check the crucial measurements like the bridge and neck pocket and change them to what they need to be if they're not exact. Also it would do you wonders to try and get a version of AutoCAD. It is twice as easy as TurboCAD and you can do a lot more. Check with anyone you know who might use cad and see if they can burn you a copy. If all else fails, places like staples and office depot usually carry AutoCAD Lite. It is AutoCAD without a lot of the specialized functions and without 3D abilities. It would be 10 times more than you need to draw templates and its about a quarter of the price of the full version. I have a home based version I got through my work, I'll check and see if I would be legally allowed to send you a copy, if so I'll send you one if you pick up shipping. Let me know if you have ?'s

I've tried the disc sander method on my first guitar and I think it worked great. Only thing I didn't do was the route on the edges, instead I masked off a line with tape at the depth I wanted. Next time I'll do the route though, it will be more accurate. One the top I just drew on the body where I wanted to keep flat and where to start the carve. Worked great, took about 2 hours with prep time and me eye-balling the edges to keep em strainght. To smooth out a few of the deep slashes the sander put in I found some 36 grit paper at the local hardware store and they came out of an ash body fairly easy. Next one will take half the time and be twice as good. I'll post pics when I get a chance.

I have an 85 Gibson Invader that has turned about the same color as yours. It's not a collectors piece so I'm refinishing. It looks like S**t now. Plus it didn't yellow the same all over, some places are almost still white and some places are passing yellow into a light brown, like where it sat on a guitar stand for too long. I'd say go for it, remember, lots of pics.

Thanks for all the info, guys. Derek I'll send some pics once I get it. The pics from the auction itself aren't very good and I'm having trouble attaching them to mail messages. BTW where can I find the Gorilla Glue that Scott mentioned? Scott

So by shear dumb luck I won an ebay auction for 5 pieces of Cocobolo. Each is approx. 15"x7.5"x3/16". Here's my questions. 1. I've heard it's hard to work with, does anyone have any experience? 2. I've also heard it's toxic, how much protection do I need, are regular gloves and a dust mask good enough? 3. How do I go about sawing a bookmatch top and is 3/16" enough to do it? 4. Last would anyone be interested in the ones I don't use either for money or for trade for other building materials (mainly body and neck woods, maple, mahogahny, etc.)? I was pretty stoked when I won, I love the look of it, just hope that it's not more trouble than it's worth. I got a pretty good deal on the pieces Thanks in advance for all you're help.

Started off in Punk and metal and thats pretty much where I'm still at today. Lound n' Proud