komodo

That is super nice . . .how are the ends held on? Err. . i mean how is the guitar secured on each end to the threaded rods?

hahah i vote yes to the wicked hair thread. And none of that pansyazz long straight stuff either . . .this should be full-blown 80's metal hair.

I love my planes and spokeshaves, but I also love my tools with tails. They all get used about 50/50. My FIL used to be a barber and gave me this old leather strop. I'll use it last after sharpening and it really gives a blade that extra ultra-sharpness for thin shavings.

This Formica is what they use in crappy old roadside diners. Your artistic vision has been done somewhat by Joe's guitars, check it out: http://joesguitars.net/ Look at the diner bass . . . .

BTW-you can buy shortened blocks. I think FR has three different heights.

I completely agree with these thoughts: "good practice", "much more satisfying", "craftsmanship", "closer and cleaner", etc. Should be the luthiers standard.

FYI- The Squier mini is OK in quality. If you want really decent, look at the Ibanez Micros. They look just like a mini RG, and now the current version even has a neck pickup that is actually not a pickup but a very small built in amp. It's a trip. If you want even BETTER quality, most people agree the ESP mini Kirk Hammett signature guitar is where it's at. You don't see them very often, but Musicians Friend has them. Personally, I am building my own design, in mini form at 19.5" scale for my son and it is nearing completion. I'll put up a build thread on it soon. It looks like a blend of an LP, a strat and a tele, and is built to full high end guitar specs (solid one piece white limba guitar and neck, ebony FB, 24 frets, one EMG passive).

Watch around 2:25 or so . . . .

Boy I am not a Tele man but that is just super cool. Makes you want to pick it up and play it. It looks stealthy too, like it would be at home on almost any kind of stage from blues to jazz to metal. Bravo.

Wez I'm doing one sorta similar, very dark overall and I'm using an ebony top (maybe 3/16"). You'd need some quartersawn wenge to get a really dark effect. Good source: http://oregonwildwood.com/Merchant2/mercha...e=EGLamTopEbony Those aren't very black, but i have a couple that are.

Funny, I never really liked Teles all that much except for the Deluxe version with full binding top and bottom and a nice tobacco burst. look at the the cover of Billy Squires Don't Say no, I think that looks KILLER. http://youtube.com/watch?v=eDocX_X0VTM

Thanks for the comments Bryan, that's exactly what I was going for.

Thanks for that David. I'd heard of Rick's method before, but this spells it out so clearly, it's a no brainer.

This is by hand. Thanks for the comments.

This will be the 12th fret (spans 6 frets) inlay on my personal build. I'll get a build thread up sometime in the near future. I might recut the wing as I don't like how the light is messing with the colors in it, I wanted it to be more gold. BTW-it's backwards, the other side still has the paper on it, and I still need to pierce the eye.

- You can use black epoxy, instead of mixing dust. - Use end mills instead of router bits for the inlay rout. -You can either cut out your design as individual pieces between frets . . or as one piece and then re-cut through the slots. Larry Robinson does it mostly the latter way, I'm doing one now the first way. Not sure if there are pros and cons for either . .anyone want to chime in on that? There is huge debate on whether to radius then inlay, inlay then radius, or partial radius, inlay then finish radius. The overall consensus seems to be the latter when you are doing larger inlays or inlays that span the board. Yours is close. Of course that also depends on how MUCH of a radius you will be doing and the width of the board. One tip Larry Robinson gave was to make sure your board is sanded to 600 grit before you apply the design and trace it with the razor knife. He mentioned that if you don't you will get chalk in all of the cracks and scratches and it will be tougher to see the sharp edges. 600 grit ensures a nice sharp image to rout. Nice design BTW . . . (if you want to see some mind-bending stuff, check out Larry's site and look at the Lindesfarne project, or the Martin 1,000,000 guitar. HOLY CRAP)

I love how everyone has David Gilmour in here. That's really a testament. In addition, Brian May for sure, Alex Lifeson for sure, Jeff Kollman and Guthrie Govan. There are tons of great guitarists, and plenty of original ones. These four though, always make me shake my head with amazement.

I'm with Rick 100%. The whole "metal/pointy/evil crap instantly turns me off. This one, however, is really nice. It's still not my cup of tea, but it's tons better than some of the other pointy things I've seen. The carves really help. I LOVE the way the carve is so smooth & rounded. The gradual slopes are really nice. x3 The carve is really really nice Doug. I can't tell but the body looks a tiny bit thick for my tastes. What is the body thickness? It looks like it wants to be a thinner one like an SG almost. NICE inlay! (BTW, I just finished cutting that dragon inlay I emailed you a couple weeks ago, and it's coming along perfect. I'll get a build thread up soon)

Loose interview with my favorite guitarist, Jeff Kollman. http://www.guitar-channel.com/rich_murray/...kollman-on.html Part 2 of the "interview" is on the front page of the site.

I can tell just by looking at these that they are just no good at all and you should send them to me to get rid of.

That's really cool Perry. Hey, thanks for those vids you posted. Really cool. BTW, I have a multiscale fretboard already cut for my next build. I went with 27.5-25", with the straight fret at #6.

What is the string spacing?

So I see this Spray max, which looks identical to ALSA Speed Clear in the Killer Cans. Does anyone have experience with this stuff? Does anyone with experience with any of the 2k spray cans have any advice or info? It seems like a great way to do a quick one off without all of the gear.

Ya that left one is definitely Cocobolo. It makes me sneeze like all get out, and has a distinct smell as well.

I think Daniel is right to a degree. The top horn is perfect, the bottom one is too pointy and curls inwards. It wouldn't take much to shave off some of that bottom horn and make the guitar perfect. Since you have an oil finish, you wouldn't be doing much damage and could blend in the finish easily. Very nice overall, and I am partial to your aesthetics-I have a current build with almost the same color scheme.