krazyderek

i got one that i don't need right now, 27 inches long, about 22 usable, .275 thick, 2 and 5/8's wide, they just fit on my 7 string necks, 11$ plus what ever it costs to ship it the way you want..

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umm... well if you're not to confident about your skills of removing it then, why not run with it, offest the 19th dot to the oposite side the same amout then the 17th to the same side as the 21st? do kinda like a sutble zig zag thing? or maybe make the offsets a little bigger with each hole you drill and just alternate the side it gets offset to too so you have like this arrow or tornado kinda shape? instead of a borring straight line now you can be creative!

i think he used one on the muddy banks of whatever concert, for pics just look on the fender site, or look at these http://home.pi.be/~ph486098/kurtjournals2.htm http://www.guitarworld.com/artistindex/960...603.cobain.html and here's some specs, but no actual measurements, but it does tell you the neck scale http://bleached.hypermart.net/kurdt/jag-stang.htm

i don't even own a bandsaw, i use a scoll saw for all the cutting i don't do with my router, and i just change to the appropreate blade. but i've never had burning problems, but i always cut a little outside the lines and then sanded into the line, maybe you should do the same next time? To get the burn marks off i would suggest using some fine sand paper, 320 or 400? if it's in a tight or rounded spot just wrap it around a dowel or long drill bit and sand it like that.

i think i understand what you want to do, but unless your going to angle the neck back like on a SG or LP, then you're going to have a bit of trouble, because most fingerboards aren't that thick. Like, ok, the bottom of the fingerboard should be about 1mm higher then the top of the guitar so that the bridge will have enough room to sit on the guitar height wise. i suppose you could make the part of the neck that fits into the pocket really thin, but then you're losing strength, and without a tilt back neck you'll have the saddles way to low for comfort (or if you're going to use a floyd you'll find the trem pocket won't be deep enough) Just go take a look at some guitars in a store that have overhang and that don't have a pickguard, then you can see what you have to do. hope this all helped.

"I think" the only reasons some guitars have overhang and others don't is ( A ) appearance, it's looks a bit more pro cause one of the seams (neck pocket bottom) is covered. and ( B ) on 24 fret necks where the neck pickup is going to pressed right up against then fingerboard, having an overhang allows to leave more woode between the neck pocket routing and the neck pickup routing, since this is one of the walls the neck is going to be pressing against, a thicker walll for more support can be a good idea, but is not absolutly necesary.

i tend to agree with the above, and warranties are great, but i 've seen these exact same drills bits going for 110$ locally at very respectable specialy tool stores. even with shipping and converting to CA currency i'd still be saving over 40$.. http://crazydiscounts.zoovy.com/product/TITANSET so....

yup, just grab one of your mom's hangers and rip it apart, and use one of the holes in the headstock to hang it from, unless of course you get some Charles Xavier powers happening

hmm... get some high output single coil sized humbuckers then...

is he doing one? i thought he was flattening out the entire board to 10 for a different over all feel. how are they done with machining tools? it's still baffling to try and figure out on my own... but i'm guessing it takes some special tools or custom and large bits for a tablemount router of some sort?

use 2 distortion pedals at the same time, set one to just before dirty turns into distortion and the other one to a good thick distortion (very little treble).... tons of tones and of drive.... i used to do this with a Boss OS-2 then into a boss Hypermetal-2..... why oh why did i sell them you could change the pots on your guitar from 250 to like all 1 megs and rig up a lo pass filter so that it wouldn't sound to thin and still be hotter ?

hehehe, an on switch on a guitar, never thought i'd see the day! that's really cool, you must have had lots of space in your control cavity cause i know my bug certainly would not fit in mine. I have samsontech system which i'm not overly fond of, there's boosts and volume knobs and on switches and flashy lights, even 2 cute anteni, but ( and call me a phenatic) it just doesn't sound the same as a good patch cord, it always ends up sounding to hot, and my emg's overload the poor thing so i have to turn on the 15db cut, then adjust the volume on the base station and arrrg it's just a pain in the ass for a basement player that didn't know what to ask for when Xmas was around. Maybe the AKG ones are built a little more guitar friendly/ differently. Can't wait to see the pics though!!!! If anyone wants mine i'm trying to sell it cause of my not-perfect-tone-aphobic ears 280$US in the box...

eric johnson!!!!, satch (of course) and i would love to ask MR Feiten why exactly he's making other people charge 300$ to cut a new nut slot and adjust the intonation..... let me guess for all his "hard work"... what a load of..****.. IMO!!!!

PLEEEEEEEEASE i love dimarzio's almost religiously!!!!! it would be a dream come true!!!!

if dc resistance of the pickup matters then i would recommend some kind of a table for pickups(it can range from 5-30k), pots and the actual black ice make up to get the optimum sound it's supposed to get.

traditionaly it's actually the exact oposite, the higher the resistance, the thinner or "hotter" it will sound and since humbuckers have twice the coils, then have twice the bass and need something to hotten them up a bit ( i think the explination goes something like that) anyways it's mostly about preference. But i've heard good things about using 1 meg tone pots.

on the other end of the helping spectrum i picked up a set of "helping hans" that come with or without a magnifying glass attached to it, it's basicly a little metal weight block with 2 little metal aligator heads on arms that can be tightened into postion, so you could hold the switch and then put a wire in the other aligator mouth thing, and move it into position, then you just have to concentrate/relax on holding the soldering iron, i hope that helps dude, and i'm sorry to hear about your problem i wish i could do more to help. btw i attachec some felt to the bottom of the metal block/ stand with some double sided carpet tape so it could sit on the guitar and not scratch the finish

ya... that's what a TBX does isn't it? puts a cap and resistor on there so depending on how you turn the balance pot you get a hotter or duller sound... i like to call it the "deep fried or microwaved" control

this might sound kinda nuts cause i'm a newb but couldn't you just (if it's a non carved guitar) run it through a planer? then just do the arm rest, chest cut, and sides with sandpaper? i mean even if you are using a chemical stripper it cuts the work more then in half and if you're carefull and take your time you could do it very easily

LOL that's helarious!!!!!!! !!!!!!!! Brian you're the man! just goes to show how they cut corners to save time and paint without anyone knowing how does the body feel? 600? 1000? 1500? what tutorial is this going to be for? "why you should start with 100-200 grit and what happens if you don't "?

i was going to order that along with the other book by some dave guy cause the were onsale as a couple, but i hesitated and i was cheap let us know what you think, and what kinds of things it covers vs the tutorials on this site and in what kind of detail, depth, and comprehendability.

maybe something happened why you were pressing the frets in? how did you do it? are you sure the neck had level support while doing do? maybe one side of it got snagged on something in the shop and when you pressed on the neck to put a fret in you were warping the neck? another idea that just poped into my head, when i was radiusing a f'board the other day i noticed it was quite tricky to try and apply uniform pressure to the sanding block, like sometimes i would pick it up to tap off the dust that had built up and only one side would have alot and the other would be bare, sometimes it changed, i ended up using both hands in a "strangling someones neck" kind of position to get the best results.

dude, read my first post.... i did call them and bitch, i talked to one of the tech's that actually helped design it, they did send me a new one, but i still could only align the new one to "fairly" accurate.. i'm probably just overly fussy, i want my fret slots to be PERFECTLY square to the center of the guitar, like when i measure them to see if they're square with the side of the board i use a magnifying glass to look at it. like if the fret slot was a foot long, then it might be off by 1/32, or 1/64th, but i guess i'm just weird, i can see those little tiny things. and i didn't ruine the first board, it was savable on a 6 string neck, but the deviation on the center line was to great for it to be used on the 7 string neck it was meant for.... so no biggy, i'm just not a bit stew mac fan..

yup, it was cut to just fit in the box perfectly so i would have the slots perfectly square with the sides.... pffff there goes that idea, so now i always use the first and 24th fret slots along with a square to find the centerline and then glue it to the neck according to that line... cause all the frets in between are going to be crooked the same amount....