krazyderek

As of right now there's one black original in stock.... and it seems to be missing the nut (thank you canada customs and revenue agency!!) so the replacement will be on it's way with the shipment next week.. Also Chrome and Gold Lefty Originals. Everything else will be instock by next week.

that's a cool little guitar there dude! nice work

I just like passing along a good deal, it kinda frusterates me when companies milk a product for to much profit The only downside to my prices is that sometimes i don't have every model in every colour in stock all the time, but it's up to you if it's worth waiting for. Dreamland Guitars - Floyd Rose Bridges How about this, PG members get free shipping on their order when they buy an original and d-tuna together?

I was also intregued by this, so i tired it out on my crazy lines guitar. The 7 string bolt on neck is basswood with a 1/2" purple heart laminate in the middle i had to use threaded inserts to be able to bolt the neck on. So far i like it, although i haven't had time to sit down and put it thru it's passe's so i'm not going to officially recommend it, but with the right laminations you might be able to get it to work too. I think next time I try for an all basswood guitar, i'll make it neck thru though.

i actually made a set of those, i just find them a bit hard on the hands so i wanted a quicker way yes, mimf was horrible to navigate, took me a good 10 minutes to find the library and run a search.. i think i'll try that 3 brass pulley wheels ideal

basicly it looks like a big truss rod, with the nut mounted directly to it, and it just floats in the neck with contact at 3 points, instead of a tight fitting channel all along the truss rod.. all that steel and open space would make for a heavy, weak neck if you ask me, i'd still like to actually see and play one though just not for 250$

I remeber we've talked about making fret benders before, and there where places you could buy plans before, other people say that some luthier school show you how to make one for 20$, did anyone actually come up with something they can share though? i'm thinking about trying to make one, and i'd like to have a little more info then a picture and what i can see when dan erlewine is using it in his video..

no no the back and sides are one peice... you just glue on the top the non quartersaw sides might have an adverse effect ya..

So i've looked at accoustic guitars as having this hudge design flaw... apart from certain models being very uncomfortable for my right arm. 1. to much glue, why are braces glued on? why isn't the top made from one peice of wood? like just a big slab of sitka spuce, and just rout away the excess wood to leave the top, and the desired bracing design? YES the grain direction won't be ideal for some of the braces but will that really matter? maybe a new bracing design would have to be developed... YES i know different types of woods are used to brace tops to get different sounds but would an entirely sitka spruce or cedar top sound that bad? 2. the back and sides should also be one peice of wood. granted this would have to be one monster chunck of wood. Make some jig to cut out the bulk of the wood to be removed so it can be used for something else... then rout out the excess wood from the back and leave just the bracing pattern you wanted, then rout the sides out of the same block. This would mean there's only 1 or 2 glue joints for the entire body of the guitar theoretically letting the vibrations travel a bit better thru the wood? With the right jig i'm pretty sure you could get the correct thicknesses for all the required peices, granted this would be much harder then glueing some peices together but i have this idea in my head that it may sound better and it just won't go away. so i'll probably try this even if you guys laugh at me, just wanted to throw it out here... BTW the above is patent pending if it would actually work so no stealsies..

i would say drillpress... router (although i know you didn't list that)... then bandsaw if you get into it.... planer is more of a luxury tool if you ask me. drillpress first because you can buy relatively cheap sanding drums to assist you in making good smooth 90 degree edges on guitar bodies, aswell it's good to know you're drilling bridge holes, and neck srew holes correctly. Lastly you can utilize the depth stops on the drill press to quickly pre drill any routes like control cavities, pickup cavities, and neck pockets with a frostner bit to save on routing time and your router bits.

thanks jeremy, i just got my bandsaw and i haven't changed the blade yet, but i was starting to wonder how you're supposed to know how tight is tight enough Are there any other tension meters people have seen for sale, the one in that article Deanz posted said 300$. I'd just like to have something a bit more accurate then trying to observe the blade's behavior. Also are there any known values, or tables that show what tension to use with what saws and blades? even with that 300$ meter would i still have to use lgm's methode to get the the ballpark, then just use the meter to record that value for quick reference down the road??

i love my 7 string, such a wide rang of tones, and i like the feel of a good 7 string neck better then 6 string's...

i was able to find this info page on black steel, although i'm still not sure if this is write.... but if it is... L and MR might be suitable to the guitar http://www.steel-n.com/esales/general/us/c...plate/type.html on side note, typing black metal into google just doesn't work

i take it the neck is already set? cause otherwise you could have just increased the neck angle couldn't u?

i would be all for black fretwire too that'd look killer.... there's got to be some way to make black metal that will still look black even after cutting and filing...

short answer is NO long answer, well the last time we talked about this, i think the consensus was something like... because on a floating bridge there is an interdependance of the string's tension that the d-tuna doesn't have the correct range to be used on all the strings at once, neither would be accuratly adjust the tension on the high pitched (smaller strings) even if it was a one way tremolo.... however this is all theoretical, no one as ever tried it...

the magnum is cool, but i don't like the contrasting neck colour, and i though it was nice to have an accoustic instead of usual line of electrics.

isn't that what he's doing morben? a neck thru?... anyways, like he was saying, no it's not usualy used, run your neck blank and body wings thru a good jointer, making sure you get a clean, straight, 90 degree cut along all 4 surfaces. Then just make sure you use good wood glue such as titebond original, and clamp properly.

looks like i missed this thread until now, interesting to see some pictures of your work greg, my only critic is that if you were going to go with such a round lower end of the guitar, i would have used a circle maker with my router to make that part of the body template (or body it's self) to get a cleaner line in that section. Also get some fostner bits so you can drill bigger pilot holes for your router bits Keep us posted

or just paint the whole back of the guitar black and veneer the headstock

pull harder seriously though, i hold my router with one arm almost like craddling a baby, i find it lets me get the most leverage on the wrench to losen the shank.... nut..... thing..... hmm i should look the name for that up

i'd pick maple headstock just to be different, i'm tired of seeing black jackson headstocks.... as for body, black is going to be easier to get cause it not a very varrient colour from brand to brand, well at least not as much as blue... what i'm trying to say is that getting the exact colour blue you might have your mind set on could be hard, unless you get home depot or one of those places to do that lazer colour matching things..

ya, i wasn't going to say anything, but the originals 7 floyds are 15" radius nut and bridge... not sure what schaller or others are doing though

no it will not

if those radius measurements are correct and assuming the guitar is a 25.5" scale, then you would need a compound radius fretboard starting at 10" and then going to 11.67" at the 22nd fret, or 11.69" at the 24th fret you could probably get away with a constant 10" board, or try your hand at a 10" -> 12" compound radius board