krazyderek

Generaly headstocks with 6 inline tuners are roughly 7-1/2" long after the nut. Yes there are several "standards" for the spacing of the nut of a neck. The two most popular are 1-5/8" is the strat standard, 1-11/16" for wider ibanez necks... String spacing is kinda tricky, and has to be kinda logrithmic due to the changing size of the strings. Stew mac sells this ruler specifically designed for marking string spacing on new nuts. Or you could try and copy the spacing from an existing nut you have, just be sure to measure to the center of the slot.

all of them... a couple of tools can do quite a few things... but compared to how well specific tools do their 1 or 2 job's.. it's hard to say... like sanpaper is great.. but a scrapper is much more efficient.. but it's not as versitile or flexible.

I've always thought that my compound mitter saw would do a better job then slidding some jig over a table saw. Then again i don't have the greatest table saw in the world. Anyways there's how i do mine. 1. Setup a square block, then turn the saw 13deg from that. 2. turn the neck blank on it's side ( so obviously before the back part of the neck has been band sawed) 3. clamp the blank in place so my hands aren't in any danger and i have full control of the saw 4. Slowly cut with several passes. 5. sand out any little variations with a solide sanding block.

the compressor i'm looking at http://www.canadiantire.ca/assortments/pro...D=1096429588631 is listed in scfm (keep in mind that's in CDN $), but i have no idea what the difference is

This may be best suited in the finish area, which probably also have several "what compressor and what gun should i buy threads" not trying to be mean or anything, i honestly don't know either, i'm looking for a compressor aswell and touch up gun aswell. Would any of the more experienced painters care to point out what to look for in compressors... size (gallons), hp, oil or oiless, cfm, psi, brands, recommended models? Although i know guns has already been talked about quite a bit.

it's a #3 screw, and like brain said it has to be flat top to fit.

well some people say it's wider, others don't, i think i've seen both on the website.... either way do it wider, then if you think it looks stupid trim it off, always easier to take wood off then to put it back on

i've made 2 or 3 variations of this tool.... and i've always just taken my time. and after getting the slot cut a little small.. i'll just run it thru the table saw taking off just a tad bit more wood each time till the slot is just the right size that it holds the file snugly, takes a little practice and patience... but it's only 2x4 so it's not like you're wasting all kinds of wood... although i would recomend you buy a peice of UHMW plastic (ultra high molecular weight) that will slide over the frets much easier then wood with any kinda of fabric on it. if you decide to get the UHMW plactic chunk (available at leevalley.com, or perhaps home depot if you ask around) then you can also drill some holes and tap them to accept some set strews that would hold the file in place... i beleive this is how stew mac make's theirs... then you can use different size and smoothness files...

you would want to use one of the many fret calculators that are floating around the net to get the measurement for 36 frets.. then slot the fingoerboard yourself. I beleive LMI sells extended fretting templates, but i don't think they go up to 36, might what to ask though. guitarbuildingtemplates.com sells the templates for an rg/jem which is pretty much the same thing, just leave out the monkey grip, and make the inside of the horns (around the neck) wider. the just use some straight edges to cut the neck or offset your templates for either side. but you'll also have to make some 7 string trem and pickup router templates...

my original post still stands, depends if you're talking about an american deluxe, with all the bells, or a mim strat, And where and what parts you get if you make it on your own.

what's the difference between the two? a logo on the headstock? depends what quality parts you buy, and what tools you have to start with

option 2, yes just glue some more wood on the sides

the route doesn't lower the bridge, the posts do, so you'll just have to adjust them up a bit further which shouldn't be any biggy.. nope never got them, you may want to look into a shear or "down" cut router bit, it's supposed to leave a cleaner cut and prevent chipping on things like brittle wood and finish, but i haven't personally used the bit myself yet.

guess the emg site is just a bit missleading, or i'm dislexic.... either way i agree, it's a great neck pickup!!

leason learned! original post edited, thank god you guys are here

i imagine in the past 20 years, james has used something other then the 81, on occasion his guitar always did sound a bit different then kirks to me...

the way i see it, you have 3 options, 1, just lower the pickup and then bear with it, since you'll still have positions 2 and 4 that have the pickup, but another aswell for volume. 2, get a dimarzio solo virtual vintage solo, or chopper, which are both hotter and aprox 9-10k (why does this matter???) 3, take some guitar lessons and learn how to hold the pick differently 3.2, don't have a middle pickup, and just coil split and miss match the neck and bridge together for position 2,3 and 4 on your switch.

i like the 60 in the neck with a 85 in the bridge, but didn't james hetfield use a 60 in the bridge? i'd imagine you'd get his crisp treb sound.

comment retracted, apparantly you shouldn't use a router to cut alluminium, or use mdf for risers.

and a couple years of experience like the rest of us Brad bits tends to do a bit less walking with the pointed tip and all.... or if you can't spring for a new set of drill bits, drill a hole in a peice of scrap plywood or plexiglass, then double tape that peice where you want the hole, if you tape the hole "template" in the right place then the whole will be dead on every time, the drill bit has no where to go but straight down..

you can heat and steam the joint with a regular household iron, but you're leaving yourself open to warping with all that moisture, not to mention trying to clean up each surface afterwards. For a part that critial i would just call that scrap and start over with some new wood.

i beleive jim will provide cnc cervices and even the wood for a price, if you have the files ready to go he's already setup for doing guitars. http://www.noahjames.com/

use actual metal for the body and make it hollow, that has also been done. Moved.

didn't know white was heavier then black

i always mark my drill bits to include the tip or point of the bit just have to think about things logically