rokeros

The final picture may make some think its weird, but thats because it is not totally flat birds eye view. So it may look out of proportiona;ity. Done the pickup rings and cavity cover today on laser cutting CNC. The material 2mm mirror acrylic. 1st try and fits like a dream. I won't post any photos of them as it doesn't seem like there is a point as this thread is not doning well at all. Its kinda discouraging really to see my hard work being ignored like this. OVer 700 views and 9 posts. Man this must be a record for the least replys and most views. Nevertheless it may be that this guitar is so perfect that there is nothing to say about it. But I highly doubt that. lol

An update. This is the final file which will be sent forwards to CNC. And can someone please say something. Is this thread not even worth looking at? Hello? Cutting on machine tomorrow for prototype so guys better make comments fast Here: http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rokeros/Final1.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rokeros/Final2.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rokeros/Final3.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rokeros/Final4.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rokeros/Final5.jpg

I have the perfect wiring. THe PRS mcarty wiring. Its coil tap. 3 way. 1 tone and 1 vol. Here: http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/WDUHH3T1104

OK now, my mock-up of the body ready for CNC. See what you guys think. Any faults? Comments plz!! Havn't had much on this thread. http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/Mock-Up1.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/Mock-Up2.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/Mock-Up3.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/Mock-Up4.jpg

It is best to use a pillar drill or a drill press because then you can push the headstock flat on the table making sure that the holes are 90degrees to the drill bit and table.

Refinishing a veneer is absolutely impossible. The dyed would have been sucked up by the wood that it would have gone through to the otherside. NO point basically. ITs better off to sand off the veneer, primer then paint, then clear. But you can still finishing a solid colour on top of a venner if you want. But you still have to sand off the original finsh flat before daring to try anything. Hope it helps

Yep I couldn't decide on the body and my design teacher wanted me to build my own style. If you guys know shamray and the icefly, well i'm building that body. Couln't get my own design to work out. Screwed UP. Yer, very similar to that. GOnna add mods such as a brain moore bent top, string thru and stuff. What do you guys think is a good string thru patten after a TOM bridge?

A very happy birthday. Exited to buy more from your site and recieve from crumpled kitchen magazines in the box for filling up spaces lol. Btw, the neck you sent me end of last year, is now complete with paintjob and touch-ups, excellent. And I have to happy birthday myself and pat myself on the shoulder for being 16 now. Turned 16 now for 46mins in HOng KOng.

Well its is better not to sand but get a flat smooth basecoat otherwise masking may peel off due to bumpy bits.

Neither, sorry. But I am not a big fan of the artwork. I was thinking more on the lines of http://fs7.deviantart.com/i/2005/177/7/f/l...by_mattahan.png I think its the folwer thaT bugs me. Ruins everything. Everything is green and black then all of a sudden red with pink???

THanks, might try that.

then try a colour matching chart where certain graded products go with certain parts in that parytular grade lol..

For me personally, I think wood is very much tone. I find body woods such as alder, ash, basswood and mohogahy very different indeed and I find rosewood and maple extremely different but not so much with ebony... I heard a squier not long and the plywood changes everything. Its orst than garageaband. But to get ultimate tone, wood is not of importance nor pickups. Its the combination and how much of good parts you have. Take them with point for example...plywood = 1 point and koa = 10. Seymour = 5 and Sadowsky = 7. Stuff like like. Get me point? So basically you can make your own chart and count up the point to see if reaches a certain limit to see if it is good or not. Maybe there should be a chart on this forum as a point system hmm...(raising eyebrows)

Ok so you want to buff, lets get a buffing arbour, some pads, compund and stuff. Total would probrably be at $300 before you make a start. I for instance, have these exact things in my school's workshop. But then I wanted to use some elbow grease, and guess what, I got the extact same finish with $10 worth of supplies than $300. How? I went down to the local music shop. Bought some Gibson gloss polish and jim dunlop fret polishing pads. And viola, all you need to get a shiny glossy nitrocelluose finish. (psst...it also helps to have good arms). As I have dicovered before, sand flat and smooth the guitar...then brasso the guitar, then press and rub really hard with the 8000 grit fret polish, add some gibson gloss polish and rub again with fret pad, rub down smooth with fingers and tissue. THats is. With a bit care and effort and patience, it is very possible to get a glass like finish with less than $10. THis is my 2cents contribution...Enjoy

Yep, none of you guys have seen my progress on my build but as a matter of fact, asia has the best woodworkers in the world if you didn't know. The story began when I was clearing my neck with KTM-9, after around 14 coats, I asked my school D&T technicians (62-66 yrs) how do they think to get an ultimate smooth and glossy finish after 40 yrs of experience under a workshop. Then they said in cantonese, "laiy daye yong dee teeht moeo lui laiy zsan yat zsan gor geng". Meaning that there dirty little secret in clear coating was to sand progressively from a grit like 600 to 2000, then buff as you would already know. But there is one secret ingredient you guys missed out, ...'brasso' Your probrably going...ok..ook..nothing special... but actually after final sanding and before polishing, brasso should be applied on a cloth to wipe down the finishing product until matte like or no visible minor scratches. You can now leave it like this if you want a dull flat look, but basically, the brasso acts as an extremely fine grit sandpaper which is so fine that basically acts as in small stage in between sanding and polishing. Still on track? I know my english sux balls, ...so then when polishing or buffing over the brasso, you won't be able to recognise some work. THe school technicians had some examples to show me of some pens and other tools they have clear coating and believe me, you won't understand until you see the final result. Hope you guys understand what I mean, and basically this is my dirty little discovery from luthiery finishes. peace out...

Dude that is way too much glue. The wood is gonna move so much and is highly likely to be not straight when you unclamp. Use your finger to spread the glue thinnly around the whole surfaces on both side just enough to see that that glue is present. but no need for a bath....

its good so far, and personally, i strongly recommend a naural finish cos those woods are blending quite well together.

Man, that top can easily be mistaken for a nice peice of koa. And wouln't it be nice if there were no pickup rings and have wooden pickup covers?

This post was nothing but a personal attack on another user, so it has been deleted. This is our first and final warning: Play nice, or take your ball and go home. Anymore of this behaviour and you will be on wirte only for 2 weeks.

Oh apparently, becos Tom Hanks didn't want to ruin the mail, he didn't open them on the island. But after the movie they found it was actually a satelite phone unit and GPS tracking system haha!!

erm..I am painting and building in school. They have quite a few facilities including a milling machine, a 20 feet lathe, CNC machining and etc... Plus a whole room for handtools, my favourite has to be the rasp and the expensive protable drill with laser guide, trigger speed control and autolocking bit mechanism.

Hey are you gonna recess the TOM or have a neck angle. I would personally resess, but how many mm are you gonna recess? THis will benefit me also, just wanting to know.

You do realise that the template was larger than the original or he would have not used cardboard. Its for the carving, he then routed out the real shape...therefore the top and bottom is round.

Yep, on and on with now 7 weeks left to finish my first ever guitar build. The most i've done before is to replace a neck. Thats it. Now I am spending USD$500 to build my first project. THe neck is on its way, but the body design is still not 100% done yet. Stupid CNC accuracy! Here are some progress pics of the neck being done in my school D&T workshops. Shaping the headstock: http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01324.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01329.jpg Masking Fretboard: http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01330.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01332.jpg First step in finishing (Black, soon to have a full length white racing stripe from headstock to end of body): http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01334.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01337.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01338.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01340.jpg I've done 5-7 more coats than since then...

Just mind Blowing.... I have always seen guitars and when I see the finish, I go, oh nice, thats it, and move on... But this is the first thread that I gaze for minutes upon each picture... Then when it came to the finish, the clear just took me away... And not to be embarrasing, but I actually collapsed and slipped off my seat in AWWEEE! What clear does he use??? I hope its KTM-9!!! Cos I have a quart to use for my next assignment...!!! MYka is definatley a true craftsman!