WezV

It looks really nice, cool idea well executed. The only criticism i have of is the neck to headstock transition, might be something you want to consider reworking before spraying. I reckon you need to remove a bit more wood, at the moment it looks like it would impede playing.

I think the brian moore guitar looks sweet!!!!! And i really like the curved top plate idea, i think if i was to implement it i may save a little money on maple but have to spend a hell off a lot more to get it to work!

keep them as they are - simple and elegant whilst still being different enough to attract attention!

Looks real nice!! What controls are you having, 5 Holes and a switch slot got me wondering

Its looking really nice. I like the fretboard a lot but i can see why lmi labelled as a 2nd, theres not really one grain line you can trace the whole length, and i cant really tell clearly from the photo but it looks like its not quartersawn either. It shouldnt be a problem and i certainly wouldnt refrain from using it but there you go. I really like the poplar on the back

Like he said: With most standard sets of strings the full thickness of the E string will not reach the nut if it is strung through the body with a 35" scale. Longer strings can be found easily on the internet but you need to know what you are looking for - most sites selling strings dont give measurements for length On my 35" scale bass i just finished i used one of the hipshot bridges that lets you choose for each string whether you want it top loaded or through the body. The E string has to be top loading but the A, D and G can be either. If i want it all through the body i will need to find order longer strings. Oh and in answer to the original question - i think the 35" scale will do more to get the right tension than the through body stringing. The through body stringing thing is more about percieved tension rather than the longer scale length which actual changes the tension of the vibrating part of the string.

I noticed on Pukko's posts it now says 'featured member' since he won GOTM today (congratulations!) Mine still says 'donated in 2006' even though i won GOTM in july this year. I see there is a discussion above saying what gets you get each one so i guess mine should say 'featured member' but i guess it was missed. Just wondered what the actual policy was.

I would never consider voting for myself in any kind of contest like this with people i respect. To me it just doesnt seem like the done thing! I am not an overly competitive person and i have no wish to 'beat' anyone else here. When i won last time i was very happy and gratefull that my guitar was judged to be GOTM, and i won even though i voted for a guitar other than my own. Quite simply put, i dont vote for my guitar out of respect and admiration for the other entries rather than a lack of believe in my instruments. If i am gonna win i am gonna win whoever i vote for! I believe in my guitars, i love my guitars and i most certainly bust my arse on my guitars.... and i can see that everyone who entered did the same

Thx Jon

I went for Skelf's - even though i dont have any votes yet I like pukko's alot, its even the sort of thing i prefer playing. But its skelf's that really looks like something i would want to own!

So its me and Alan up first again Here's the bass specs: Lacewood body with acrylised maple top + the usual wenge and maple accent lines 3-piece flamed maple neck with wenge acent lines 2 way truss rod and dual CF bars 35" scale 24 fret ziracote fretboard with flamed maple binding Seymour duncan passive soapbars in wooden covers Seymour duncan 3-band active EQ Here it is getting the once over from Paul Reed Smith And some more pics: http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/PICT01831.jpg http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/PICT0197.jpg http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/IMG_0065.jpg http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/IMG_0067.jpg http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/IMG_0068.jpg Cheers Wez

I agree with you about the body shape - i have been calling it 'the stumpy one' It doesnt quite have the style of the first guitar i made with this shape. I guess its all in the horns!! It does sound fantastic though and obviously the wood is much nicer in real life and adds a lot of interest. I certainly wont mind loosing to any of the entries this month, (although i aint gonna pretend i dont want to win )

Novax is selling his own design and the ABM version on his website: http://www.novaxguitars.com/parts-accessories/bridges.html And allparts has them as well, but the price is a little high: http://www.allparts.uk.com/catalogue/produ...roducts_id=9757

Thats damn ugly! ... I love it!!

Things like this can be fun for practicing your restoration techniques on... As is said above, you cant polish a turd but you can probably improve it to some degree and its all good experience for the days when you need to work on something with more value

Obviously you need to be very carefull with the heat gun if you want a natural finish at the end - any scorching will be hard to get rid of! I would also be open to the idea that the wood may not be aestheically great under all that paint so a natural finish may not be the best option. Use something like tru-oil for the finish and you can have it as glossy or matte as you want.

Not great guitars but use your imagination. Its perfect for practicing repairs such as refretting, neck resetting, rebinding and refinishing - not to mention the obvious need for a new bridge. Personally i would look into converting it into a wooden bodied resonator since it will probably never sound much more than junk as a straight acoustic andmost resonators are ply anyway

And even if you got it really smooth - sooner or later the you would be ale to feel the frets again, remember that wood and metal expand and contract at different rates. I reckon it would have an adverse affect on the strings

Since yous ay you are adding a 1/2" Korina top it doesnt really mater as much which wood you choose with the weight! You can always put some randomly placed 'tone chambers' ( read- forstner drill bit holes) in under the top to reduce weight. As long as you dont do really large chambers it shouldnt sound too much like a semi

The 1 solid padauk guitar i have built was a little bright for my tastes but plenty of other people liked it. It is definatly denser and heavier than mahogany so be carefull doing an explorer, it could easily end up too heavy. I would consider reducing the body size like gibson did for its X-plorer pro range

Here is a guitar i finished with danish oil and bri-wax. This is probably one of the easiest finished becasue you can do it with stuff thats easy to find. Tru-oil can be taken to a higher gloss with a little more effort and obviously french polish can be taken to a gloss as well but does take a bit of skill to learn You could also use a brushing lacquer such as rustins plastic coating if its going to be clear, easily available in the uk and real easy to use!

I like this alot, makes me want to do more retro stuff!!

Very nice build!!

well i will be heading off in about 30 minutes

These are all at Ibstock at the moment but going to the guitarshow for the weekend, hopefully they wont be back in Ibstock next week - but they might be. If you can get the bareknuckle pickups then do, they are amazing and easily the best pickups i have ever used - well worth the money. Its also worth talking to Tim about what you want and tell him about your project, he's a great guy and i am looking foward to meeting up with him at the show on saturday. and all you non-uk people, its probably not usually worth you buying pickups from the UK with the stength of the pound and all, but dont go by the prices on the website - he will knock the tax of any non-uk orders, still expensive but i am sticking with them from now on!